Used Crankshaft Value

Bruce of MN

Bruce of MN

Well-known member
I have a used crank with unknown history left over from trying to find an uncracked block last year. I haven't spent the money to get it magnafluxed and I wonder if it is worth enough to justify bringing to Hershey to ask a friend with a vendor space to sell it for me. As opposed to scrapping it.

What are the 'Barn opinions?
 
I would think that a lot would depend on the condition of the journals. Are they close to original spec, scored, flat spots, thrust surfaces, etc.
 
A crank with journals at or very close to standard, with minimal runout, not egg-shaped, etc., would be worth something. So the highest-ROI thing you could do would be to thoroughly mic all the journals, particularly the center main.
 
If folks don't know the current journal sizes and whether it is free of unseen defects then it's not worth as much to a potential buyer. Whether it has the fishtail shaped cheek design or a later model B counter weighted design can also make a difference.

Unchecked crankshafts are always on flea-pay and prices "asked" range from $25 to $200 and there is no telling how long they stay on there before someone actually purchases them. Just the cost of shipping adds a lot.

If you want to get more for it then you will have to spend more on it.
 
I definitely would not scrap it. Most likely if it was cracked it would have broken in use if it was run for very long at all. Being a forging they are very tough especially with only 40 horse power beating on it. They are light weight and a little flimsy but not very likely to crack in stock use. There’s a good chance it’s only scene maybe 25 years of use or less. Most likely unless it’s got heavy rust or pits on the journals it is of use to somebody.
 
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even if it all looks good , whom ever buys it will consider it as a core. finding a block that it will just drop into will be impossible.
the Babbitt shop will not even consider it unless it has been checked and is true, and the journals are machined. the babbitt shop has to have it rite.
i don't scrap stuff i post things in the club news letter as free before i load it into the scrap bin. i don't need to get a penny for every little thing, sometimes a freebee will come back around for you.
 
Here's a thought If it's a junk crankshaft you could use it to hold a mailbox if you have mailboxes at the side of the road you could use it as a door stop Be proud of your model A. pride and ownership!!!
 
For what it's worth, last week I bought some Model A parts from a consignment auction. There were 4 pallets that each contained a disassembled engine. The cheapest sold for $11.00 and the highest sold for $31.00, attached is a picture of the highest selling one.
 

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BButturff said:
For what it's worth, last week I bought some Model A parts from a consignment auction. There were 4 pallets that each contained a disassembled engine. The cheapest sold for $11.00 and the highest sold for $31.00, attached is a picture of the highest selling one.
Click to expand...

Was that the Blair auction? That auction was great for buyers, not so great for the seller.
 
alexiskai said:
Was that the Blair auction? That auction was great for buyers, not so great for the seller.
Click to expand...


Yes, it was the Blair auction. I felt like they could have done a much better job with their listings. For example, if you searched the entire auction (2231 items) for the words "Model A" it returned no items. Buyers had to search on a more generic term such as "carburetor" or "engine" or page through the entire category of "Automotive" to see what was there.
 
BButturff said:
Yes, it was the Blair auction. I felt like they could have done a much better job with their listings. For example, if you searched the entire auction (2231 items) for the words "Model A" it returned no items. Buyers had to search on a more generic term such as "carburetor" or "engine" or page through the entire category of "Automotive" to see what was there.
Click to expand...

The first problem was, 2200 lots is just a ton of stuff. And a lot of it was "box of stuff," so there were far more than 2200 items. The big auction house around here runs large seasonal multi-seller consignment auctions, and if there's over 1000 items they split it into multiple days. They liquidated an antiques warehouse once and it took months, going one room at a time. But it made the auction manageable and more buyers found what they wanted. Here, it felt like the auctioneers had taken on more than they could handle.

The second problem was that there were maybe 50-100 Model A items in the auction and, as you said, no way to find them without slogging through all the "Automotive" lots. Fortunately they seemed to be in clusters.

The third problem was the website was just... not very descriptive. Specifically they didn't say they would ship items. I had to email them and ask. So I think a lot of folks wrote it off unless they happened to live nearby. Which was too bad. There was good stuff there.
 
how much storage space do you have? how long do you want it to sit around?

I had a spare rear spring that finally found a buyer after 3 yrs at a giveaway price.......

I find transmissions and engines in the same group. everything is worth something to somebody, but what is it worth to you?
 
I appreciate all the answers. It wouldn't be much work to clean the journals and inspect and mike them. I can borrow a bigger micrometer from a pal, so maybe I'll do that and decide. Regarding storage, I might find a spot under a workbench, but I have been trying to get rid of stuff and leave less for my heirs to toss in the dumpster.
 
Once you have sorted the items you would like to part ways with list them on here there may be somebody desperately looking for something that you have!!!
 
I think we have established by now that the most important thing determining the value of a used crank is the size (and condition) of the journals.
Taking this thread sideways a bit now. How many have Nitrided their journals to extand crank shaft life. When Burlington carnks were available, the journals were Nitrided and mine have done a load of miles andare still fine for a $#!Tload more. To redon the bearings, I would need do no more than replace the inserts - job done. I have pondered if I do another engine, putting counter weights on a decent crank, grinding and Nitriding the journals, fit a harmonic balancer and inserts. I think that would be about as good as can be done. Has anybody else done it?
Surely, if a carnk had been Nitrided, it would be worth much more than one that has not.
 
I should have measured months ago. The thing is .030" under on all journals and needs clean up. Insert bearings only go to -.030", so pretty useless, except as art.

At least I don't have to haul it around at Carlisle or Hershey.:cool:
 
Good point, I only looked for under sized main bearings. I assume that there is an undersize too far for babbitting?
 
AER website lists Model A MAIN bearing inserts to 0.040.

Model B Main bearing inserts go to 0.060.

https://antiqueenginerebuilding.com/insert_main_bearings.html

Note:

Over the years there has been many different insert company's inserts used. (Fork lifts and other applications)

Not all of them are the same size! (some end at 0.030 some at 0.060)

Machining of the block in order to install inserts is NOT the same size for all of them.
 
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I don't know if they still do spray welding, or if it's any good, for building up worn crankshaft journals.
 
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