Upper mount on 1930 model A transmission?

R

redbelly52

Junior Member
Hi all.
I have a 1930 5 window coupe that has a pretty good vibration, coming from the drive-train when the car gets above 35 mph. Took the floor board out and noticed a hard rubber mount on the upper back side of the transmission.
I have not seen this in my repair manual or on any of the parts sites.
My question, is there supposed to be a rear transmission mount on this car?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Bob
 
Um. No mount on stock. An "ear" was used which protruded above the crossmember in some of the earlier cars, but the ear may have been added as a manufacturing expediency - or removed for same. And did not touch the crossmember in normal operation.

Float-a-motor different story. This system DOES involve additional restraint at the rear of the ****** with a separate but added bracket and rubber pads.

Check your motor mounts at either side of the flywheel housing and the front of the motor. If there is rubber donuts involved, it's probably float-a-motor.

Welcome to the club!

Joe K
 
Dog:cool: here, It's part of a FLOAT-A-MOTOR mount set up.
Ol' Bill asked me to tipe this, cuz when he talks about them, folks "jump" on him!! NOW, y'all wouldn't "jump" on a Dog:cool:, would you?? Buster T.:cool:
 
Float-a-motor
 

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Thanks for the info and the welcome. It is good to be "connected".

Yes, the car does have the float-a-motor mounts on the sides, which I left intact, and had something similar on the front,(rubber bushings and heavy duty springs), which I replaced with the original front mounts because the hand crank alignment block did not match with the crankshaft pulley. Now it does, and the car runs a bit smoother.
The upper rubber mount does sound like it was an add-on with the float-a-motor conversion.

Now my next question...should I remove it? I'd like to be able to drive the car over 35 mph without as much shimmy as it has now. I have read about the transmission mount alignment, flywheel truing, etc., but I'm not ready to take the car apart that far yet, so I'm looking for the quick and easy fixes first.
 
Does it shake when you rev the engine in neutral and the car is standing still?
If so you may have a bad center main or rear main bearing.
 
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I would not remove the transmission support mentioned if you retain the float-a-motor flywheel engine supports.

The original principle of the ford drive was that the rear axle "pushed" on the back of the transmission via the universal joint cover(s) Thus the entire transmission "pushes" the car. And this push is transmitted from the flywheel housing to the frame via the stock non-cushioned engine supports.

Without that rear brace and the rubber involved ALL that push goes through the rubber donuts at the sides of the flywheel housing. These were not designed for loading in shear but just to take the downward load of the engine by gravity.

If changing the front mount "realigned" the engine (the crank issue a common complaint with float-a-motor) and you have improved a vibration situation thereby - you may do best to leave it as it is.

You may want to try a ride in someone else's unmodified Model A before you put a lot of work in it to restore yours to original. Some folks prefer float-a-motor and some do not. My own experience riding in others who have it leaves me with the impression it's "squashy" in comparison with Ford's original setup. But some consider squashy to be "smooth."

And someone with the float-a-motor may have experienced similar vibration issues (mentioned in your OP) and will chime in here...

Joe K
 
To Tom,
I have not tried revving the engine much while parked. It idles very smoothly, with no engine movement at all, although I do get a valve tapping from time to time. No other "bad" noises that I can tell.
I have pushed in on the clutch pedal while the car is moving and revved the engine then. It feels like the motor, or something in the drive train, is in a "bind", if that makes sense.
There is also a "whirl" sound when I let off the gas pedal, or going down a hill in gear. It is not present when accelerating. Possibly throughout bearing, or U-joint?
I know a little about newer cars,(50's thru 70's), but not much about the A's.
Thanks for any help.
 
I would take a model A guy for a ride.
This might just be a case of the engine was
Not bal. right when rebuilt. If done right they
Are smooth but there are a lot of back yard
Farmer engine rebuilder out there. It will most
Likely run a life time the way it is. The engine in my
car had a screwed up fly wheel I had to replace.
 
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