Upgrading to a different carb/intake?

bigd1101

bigd1101

Senior Member
OK.....I've just about had it with the original double barrel "teapot" carb set up on the 53 flathead V-8. It's been nothing but a headache even after a complete rebuild. The difficulty getting it "dialed in" to idle smooth, the ever-reoccurring hesitation underway, and coupled with the auto-choke, driving the car, is not a pleasure.

At this point, after a engine rebuild and a carb rebuild, and the mixed reviews on these teapot carbs, I'm seriously thinking a different carb and maybe an intake upgrade to boot.

With this in mind, I have no idea how to proceed as I've not done this, nor do I know what to upgrade to. I see suppliers like Summit have a plethora of options that go on these old flatheads. I'd like to think that it's a fairly simple endeavor as removing the old intake and fitting a new (and improved) system in its place, but at my age, I've learned that never to be the case.

I'd like to ditch the massive oil bath air cleaner, carb and intake with maybe dual carbs and intake, but like I said, I'm not sure what would be best. I do know, my frustration level is a 10.:(

What kind of job am I looking at???
 
A Rochester small-base 2G from a 283 or similar Chevrolet is almost a natural for your car. If you mount it on your intake backwards, everything falls into place. If you get a carburetor with a choke type that matches your intake (divorced vs. integral), all it takes is a slight bend of the actuating rod (divorced choke) or a shortening of the heat tube (conventional) to make it work. The 2G has throttle bores of 1 7/16", which is larger than the Mercury manifold, so the manifold should be bored out for maximum performance and efficiency.

I have this setup on the '51 Merc in in '51 Ford coupe, and it performs flawlessly. These carburetor flow in the neighborhood of 275-285 CFM, so they are equivalent of two 94's or 97's. They are easier to set up, they keep their tune, and it's a lot cheaper because you don't need a new manifold. The only way they fall down is in the "looks" department. For an air cleaner, I use a conventional unit from Speedway Motors. One change I did make was to make a longer mounting stud so I can stack two elements for adequate airflow. The only drawback is that there are cast-in voids on the underside of the carburetor base that can cause vacuum leaks on some manifolds. I had a bunch of base plates made up from 1/4" akuminum to solve this problem.
 
Yes.....a different carb would be cheaper as long as I can attach the old linkage and also have the vacuum attachments. But I am willing to change out the manifold too. Just not sure how complicated that would be.

UPDATE: After reading some old posts on this, I think I'll just have to live with what I have. Too many parts involved in changing carbs/intakes, including distributors. Yikes!
 
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One carb you might consider is the Holley 1 1/16 holley. it will bolt right on your existing intake and work well with the original distributor.
Gramps
 
All indications from the original post seem to say that he's workin' on a '53 Mercury. They have a square 4 bolt carburetor bolt pattern. I tend to agree with "JM"; maybe getting an expert to look at the original carburetor would be a good idea. I believe "Scicala" on this board fits that description. It's probably the best choice without changing the distributor (which really isn't that difficult).
 
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tubman said:
All indications from the original post seem to say that he's workin' on a '53 Mercury. They have a square 4 bolt carburetor bolt pattern. I tend to agree with "JM"; maybe getting an expert to look at it would be a good idea. I believe "Scicala" on this board fits that description. It's probably the best choice without changing the distributor (which really isn't that difficult).
Click to expand...
"
All indications from the original post seem to say that he's workin' on a '53 Mercury. They have a square 4 bolt carburetor bolt pattern"
Yes, the teapot is a 4 bolt. The ideal thing is a replacement that I can try without all the other changes......if that exists.
 
Well then the late "Y" block carb won't work without an adapter. However it is a fine carb and works well with the load a matic distributor.
Gramps
 
There is nothing wrong with the original tea pot two barrel (Model 1901) when everything is correct. As for the choke assembly, make sure the choke stove isn't rotted out and comtaminating the choke housing, causing your choke issue.
It's easy to overlook things on these carbs.

Sal
 
olddaze32 said:
Does anyone have the Mercury (teapot) manifold bolt spacing.
Click to expand...

This is the bottom of a 53' Merc teapot:

L - center to center: 3 1/4"
W- center to center 1/7/8"

We should talk some time.

Roy Lange
Conifer, CO
(303) 838-2028
 

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Just some general information. A small base Rochester 2G has the same bolt pattern as these Holleys. The throttle bores are 1 7/16" vs the Holley's 1 3/8" which can be easily be remedied. The Rochesters are easier to find and work on, and in my opinion, an overall better carb.

You die-hard Mercury guys and restorers can disregard this post.
 
I have rebuilt a 1901 with good results. I took two carburetors to get all the correct parts to assemble one working unit. The manual for the carburetor can be found online thanks to the Old Car Manual Project, and I recommend taking a look at the manual to make sure your carburetor is not missing any parts such as the "Bleeder Screen Washer", the flat washer looking thing at the top of the carburetor: http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H1901-1952/index.html.

Also, make sure the distributor is in good working conditions. A good condenser, good points gapped properly, good vacuum diaphragm, correct initial advance, and vacuum connected to the proper place on the carburetor (NOT to manifold vacuum) are key.
 
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