Update: Pin Holes in Model A Engine Fix

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Bill Lee/Virginia

Senior Member
Many thanks to everyone who replied to my original post. Your info and advice worked! I cleaned the leaking area of paint and discovered that the engine had been previously repaired with JB WELD. I removed the old JB WELD, cleaned and repaired the area with "Marine Type" JB WELD. I test drove the car and no leaks! Happy Turkey Day next week.
Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula
 
I sanded for many hours to remove the old JB WELD. I did the same to smooth and feather the new JB WELD after it cured for 24 hours. It was not an easy task bending over the fenders. My back still hurts today. I can E-Mail 5 photos if someone will post them for me. Just let me know.
Bill Lee/Virginia Peninsula
 
Posted on behalf of Bill Lee.
 

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Next time you have to do a jb weld block repair. If you lay wax paper over the area and smooth out the jb weld under the wax paper, and this will prevent a lot of the sanding as it will take care of most of the hard edges. Also I'm not sure what you spread the jb weld on with. But if you know how to spread bondo, you could use one of your chap bondo spreaders and get a real nice finish on it with minimum sanding. But anyways, glad you got the crack fixed! Jb weld has saved a lot of motor blocks lol.
 
even better way is to use POR-15 epoxy putty. Two clay bars you mix equal portions together and when it hardens it is very tough. You can even drill and tap holes in it. And to make it smooth just wet your finger and smooth it out. It will even cure under water.
 
txturbo said:
even better way is to use POR-15 epoxy putty. Two clay bars you mix equal portions together and when it hardens it is very tough. You can even drill and tap holes in it. And to make it smooth just wet your finger and smooth it out. It will even cure under water.
Click to expand...

That is good stuff too. In my opinion, the JB Weld is better for these types of applications because it is less viscous than two part putties so it has the ability to migrate into the pores and grip better. JB Weld is also machinable when cured. But your experience might be different..
 
QGolden said:
That is good stuff too. In my opinion, the JB Weld is better for these types of applications because it is less viscous than two part putties so it has the ability to migrate into the pores and grip better. JB Weld is also machinable when cured. But your experience might be different..
Click to expand...
Ive used both....the putty is easier to work with when using it on a vertical surface. I use to rebuild broken cases on motorcycles in the point cover area with JB weld. It was a challenge to get it to stay where you wanted it until it cured.
 
QGolden said:
That is good stuff too. In my opinion, the JB Weld is better for these types of applications because it is less viscous than two part putties so it has the ability to migrate into the pores and grip better. JB Weld is also machinable when cured. But your experience might be different..
Click to expand...

"Paint" the jp weld then, while wet, push in the putty?
 
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