update on rod vs timing

allen

Well-known member
Took the vicky motor upart. the rod nuts were not loose at all the cotter pins were in place look to me that the babbit just let go on the bottom.
The crank look great this was a short block with less than a 1000.00 miles on. I think it was turn ten does anyone know off hand what the crank would read with mic if turn 10, I posted some pictures on the motor











the only
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ing i notice was (to me) heavy build up on carbon on the pistons thanks again for all the help as always you guys are the best.





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sorry for the picture problem on the words and the extra photo still working on posting the pictures right
 
Is it normal for the exhaust valves to be white like that or does that indicate running the timing too retarded for prolonged periods of time?
 
Your babbitt failure has nothing to do with timing. There are no oil grooves and no parting line reliefs, and maybe, cant tell without measurements, the end play is wrong. The cap edge looks thin to me and the brown area looks like too much heat. Check all rods and your mains too for grooves before you put it back together. Even Dremel cuts are better than what you have. Your babbitt guy has no clue what he is doing. Get someone else. Herm?
 
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Thanks for the reponse if the rods were poured to hot, then would i be wasting my time if I cut the x, Even if the x were craved out would not the next rod etc let go.
 
Allen, the .010 under crank size is 1.4880; to 1.4890. I am going to hold off comment, and see what the other Guys see first. thanks Herm.
The cap looks like it was not tinned! The cap also looks like it is original and all look thin so it is not that. The rod and cap may have had grooves but with the amount of damage it is almost impossible to tell. There is no way to tell in the cap. Bad tinning, that's all. Herm?
 
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On top of all the above, the cap appears to have been filed some.

There are what appear to be some course lines side to side on the flanges.
 
Rings not sealing may be causing the carbon on your piston tops.
White exhaust valves may be from running lean.
Babbit appears to have no or poor tinning, plus I see no signs of oil grooves.

I assume the one picture of the engine and rusty body are different than the engine with bad babbit, which I assume is still installed in the car.

Pull another rod and show us the babbit. At this point I think I'd pull the engine and start over with a good babbit job. Did the same guy do the mains and rods?
 
Rings not sealing may be causing the carbon on your piston tops.
White exhaust valves may be from running lean.
Babbit appears to have no or poor tinning, plus I see no signs of oil grooves.

I assume the one picture of the engine and rusty body are different than the engine with bad babbit, which I assume is still installed in the car.

Pull another rod and show us the babbit. At this point I think I'd pull the engine and start over with a good babbit job. Did the same guy do the mains and rods?

I agree,

I do not see any tinning. I also do not like the looks of #1 Rod and Cap. It looks like there is no babbet on the side thrust surface of the cap but there is babbet on the side of the rod. I do not think I have ever seen a rod done like this before of may be the babbet already fell off the side of the cap. I would definately take the whole thing apart and look at all the babbet.

My opinion,

Chris
 
When I look at the #1 rod does it look like babbit is there for side thrust on the rod but not on the rod cap? Looks like space between the cap and the crankshaft cheek. I agree on checking the rest of the babbit job.
 
I don't know who your engine builder was, and I do not need to know. But if I was you I would find another one. You have lots of problems with that engine. From what I can see there is not much right about the engine.
 
First off Allen, where can I get a short STRONG Broom like you have holding that body from tipping over!!! I agree with every ones observations. The second cylinder shouldn't be dark, or it might be the lighting, as it would be better to see it in person. The front rod has way to big a gap, for side play, ether broke out, or machined off. the bare cap, should still have tinning, as most blown rods will take the babbitt, out of the upper part of the rod, not the cap, if it was a GOOD ROD, although, any thing can happen. The give away here is the chunk of babbitt that is laying with the bare cap. Look at the debris, that is embedded in to the back of that chunk, it is eather tinning compound residue, or dirt, or skimmings or oxidations. That chunk of babbitt was never stuck to that rod, at any time!! Now watch Allen say, sure wasn't, it came out of another motor!! I also agree, take the motor down, as it doesn't take long, and this should be the last time. The last thing, when tinning a bearing of any kind, you have got to have automatic, regulated tinning, and pouring babbitt pots, or it is just about impossible to pour a tinned bearing of any kind, that not even counting the cooling, and then every bearing pours different. You only have a total of 30 degrees, Plus, or minus to play with, minus, it won;t tin, plus, you will burn the tin off. I will just guess the rods were never checked for, twist, bend, or off set.Thanks Herm.
 
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Rings not sealing may be causing the carbon on your piston tops.
White exhaust valves may be from running lean.
Babbit appears to have no or poor tinning, plus I see no signs of oil grooves.

I assume the one picture of the engine and rusty body are different than the engine with bad babbit, which I assume is still installed in the car.

Pull another rod and show us the babbit. At this point I think I'd pull the engine and start over with a good babbit job. Did the same guy do the mains and rods?

Yes tom different motor the 31 vicky motor was got short block, the one you see is one i went thru so for so good, thanks to all the guys for the help, to answer herm yes the builder of the 31 did do the main and rods
 
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