Update on my 37 Ford - HELP!!!

Tom in SW VA

Tom in SW VA

Well-known member
:mad: Things have gone from bad to worst. My 37 Ford will not start at all.

I have done the following since I was on here last:

1) Bought a new battery and I still do not enough power to start the car. Voltage reading of 6.3, no grinding power. Starter???
2) As you may remember, I bought a new Stromberg 97 carb, changed it back to the old one, and then back to the new one. No luck. Made no difference.
3) Cleaned all the plugs.
4) The grinding power is very low. The carb just floods. No indictation that the car is going to start.
5) Voltage reading across the solenoid is also 6.3 with the ignition off.
6) My distributor has the coil conversion kit. I don't have idea how to open, look at the points, or get it off to send to Bubba's. I need someone with more expertise than me. Yes, I am in over my head!!

I have asked for help in three states, but no response. I have contacted the local Early Ford V-8 in Bristol, TN and did not get a positive response. I belong to the national club, but not to the local chapter that. Does anyone know of another local chapter near SW VA that might help?

I am very discouraged and am asking for help once more. Thanks!!! :)
 
Sounds like you might bad grounds BEtween motor and the frame,check the cable from battery to frame,and frame to motor,what is the voltage at the starter or large cable from the starter silionoid when you try to start the engine,????
 
The ground thing is where to start. Then try removing the plugs and spinning the motor while the switch is on and holding a plug wire close to the block to see what kind of fire you are getting. I would be glad to help if I were there and surely someone around there can help. Any old time mechanic (before solid state junk) would understand the systems on your car.
 
when you say "no grinding power", what does that mean??...."the carburetor floods"??....what are indications of that??...plugs wet after trying to start it??...deep breath....hopefully it can be figured out....Mike
 
As Jim says check for spark at the plugs. Do as he says for checking spark. If no spark at the plugs then track it back from there. This does not sound like a carb or fuel related problem. If you get the engine to crank over have someone spray a little starting fluid in the carb while you crank. If the engine tries to fire or run then you know it's a fuel issue. Again, I'm suspect of the ignition system.

Don't let your early ford intimidate you. Don't panic, systematically approach your problem with confidence. You will figure out the problem and I bet it is really something minor. Think of it as a learning experience so the next time you can go right after the issue knowing you can figure it out.
 
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I know how you feel, I have a couple of people who really know their stuff, one of them is a barnner. But I live in Wisconsin. Another thing that can be ticklish is money. Everyone has to pay for their regular car being tuned up or serviced. I always try to let anyone that works on my 39, know, that I certainly expect to pay for their help, and really appreciate there help. It is more important to me, to have go to guys that can fix my big problems { I can do the simple stuff } I also know the feeling of accomplishment there is, by solving a problem yourself, but experts can shortcut your problems pretty quickly My advice ? find some experts near where you live and cultivate those relationships.
 
Tom in SW VA said:
:mad: Things have gone from bad to worst. My 37 Ford will not start at all.

I have done the following since I was on here last:

1) Bought a new battery and I still do not enough power to start the car. Voltage reading of 6.3, no grinding power. Starter???
2) As you may remember, I bought a new Stromberg 97 carb, changed it back to the old one, and then back to the new one. No luck. Made no difference.
3) Cleaned all the plugs.
4) The grinding power is very low. The carb just floods. No indictation that the car is going to start.
5) Voltage reading across the solenoid is also 6.3 with the ignition off.
6) My distributor has the coil conversion kit. I don't have idea how to open, look at the points, or get it off to send to Bubba's. I need someone with more expertise than me. Yes, I am in over my head!!

I have asked for help in three states, but no response. I have contacted the local Early Ford V-8 in Bristol, TN and did not get a positive response. I belong to the national club, but not to the local chapter that. Does anyone know of another local chapter near SW VA that might help?

I am very discouraged and am asking for help once more. Thanks!!! :)
Click to expand...
Tom this is not true , I offered help !!!!!!!
You did not want to tow to Charlotte NC.
I typically do not work on other peoples vehicles , but you needed help & I know how !!!
Please do not say no one wanted to help you !!!!!!
Cheers
Tony
 
Hi there. You say grinding power is low ?? Do you mean the engine is cranking over slowly when you press the starter button, ? If so Put your new battery on your 6 volt charger overnight and test cranking speed again next day. Your 6.3 volts battery voltage seems OK. Several people have asked you if there is spark at the spark plugs but you have not answered this question. To test for spark remove any one plug lead off a spark plug and hold it 1/4 inch from a cylinder head nut and with ignition switch "ON" have someone else press the starter button and crank engine over for about 10 seconds. You should have in this time several good blue sparks to the cyl head nut. If you have no spark then you will require someone (mechanic or auto electrician) to check it out for you if you feel you are not able to go any further. Three basic items required to make an engine run are - AIR, FUEL & SPARK. You need to identify which one is not happening. You have played around with fuel and carbs and seem to have fuel somewhere there. Please let us know about the spark question so we can advise you further. Regards, Kevin.
 
I think you are going to have to sell the car to me. No other solution seems possible. I'll send a roll-back to pick it up.

Seriously, with your membership to the EFV8 club comes a directory of members. Review the directory and contact the member nearest you. He will either fix your car or tell you someone who can/will. If he fails to do so list his name and address so the hit squad knows where to go.

It would be better if you could give more specific and advanced information. I agree with those who suggest charging the battery overnight(6V), removing and cleaning and reinstalling the cable connections, checking to be sure the cables are the LARGE 6V diameter and not designed for 12V, checking for spark at the sparkplugs, etc.
 
JWL said:
I think you are going to have to sell the car to me. No other solution seems possible. I'll send a roll-back to pick it up.

Seriously, with your membership to the EFV8 club comes a directory of members. Review the directory and contact the member nearest you. He will either fix your car or tell you someone who can/will. If he fails to do so list his name and address so the hit squad knows where to go.

It would be better if you could give more specific and advanced information. I agree with those who suggest charging the battery overnight(6V), removing and cleaning and reinstalling the cable connections, checking to be sure the cables are the LARGE 6V diameter and not designed for 12V, checking for spark at the sparkplugs, etc.
Click to expand...

I have changed the battery, cleaned the plugs, changed to a new carb, and checked the solenoid. Need to check the engine ground, spark plug wire firing, and the dist.

I will look up the nearest members and I have contacted the East TN club.
 
Mike in AZ said:
when you say "no grinding power", what does that mean??...."the carburetor floods"??....what are indications of that??...plugs wet after trying to start it??...deep breath....hopefully it can be figured out....Mike
Click to expand...


Grinding power means the engine or starter turns slowly when the battery is fully charged and is new.
 
koates said:
Hi there. You say grinding power is low ?? Do you mean the engine is cranking over slowly when you press the starter button, ? If so Put your new battery on your 6 volt charger overnight and test cranking speed again next day. Your 6.3 volts battery voltage seems OK. Several people have asked you if there is spark at the spark plugs but you have not answered this question. To test for spark remove any one plug lead off a spark plug and hold it 1/4 inch from a cylinder head nut and with ignition switch "ON" have someone else press the starter button and crank engine over for about 10 seconds. You should have in this time several good blue sparks to the cyl head nut. If you have no spark then you will require someone (mechanic or auto electrician) to check it out for you if you feel you are not able to go any further. Three basic items required to make an engine run are - AIR, FUEL & SPARK. You need to identify which one is not happening. You have played around with fuel and carbs and seem to have fuel somewhere there. Please let us know about the spark question so we can advise you further. Regards, Kevin.
Click to expand...

Right now I would gladly sell the car, but I have too much invested. I think I got taken on the original purchase.
 
Don said:
Sounds like you might bad grounds BEtween motor and the frame,check the cable from battery to frame,and frame to motor,what is the voltage at the starter or large cable from the starter silionoid when you try to start the engine,????
Click to expand...

Where is the ground between the motor and the frame?
 
did it crank the same way with the old battery??....and did that battery check out good??....usually that ground wire or strap goes from head bolt to firewall??....have you tried jumping the starter with a 12V battery??....got any pics of the engine, etc??....Mike
 
Tom, it may be that we barners can talk you through the processes in a step by step way. You admit you do not have much knowledge, far enough, we can respect that. The lets start by looking at the battery. You have a new battery, but the engine only turns slowly. Have you had a 6V car before? they do turn slowly by modern standards. I think if you could take photo's and even video's of simple things, we may be able to offer advice and simple step by step instructions.

The battery has two big leads. One is a ground, on the pos terminal of the battery. Remove the other end of this big lead and clean it meticulously. Post a picture of it. Is it a new lead? Is it thin? How about the live (neg) lead? How is the connection to the solenoid? How about the lead from the solenoid to the starter? Good connections needed at all junctions. How about where the starter bolts to the engine? It must all be spotlessly clean and bolted up tight.

Don't worry about anything else at the moment, just concentrate on this stuff, and lets get it cranking over at a decent rate. Once that is achieved we can talk you through the distributor removal.

Photos and videos speak a thousand words when trying to see what is going on, especially if the person having the problem is not well versed in the subject and because if that has a problem conveying clearly what the problem is.

Mart.
 
Tom.... You mentioned that the distributor has a coil adapter.Was the car converted to 12 volts?If so,you'll need a 12 volt battery,not 6 volt.Good luck.
 
Does the car have an ammeter? If so, the needle should bounce rapidly between 0 and -5 as you crank. No bounce means the circuit(points) is not working.
You can check your cables with your voltmeter. Attach the voltmeter between the positive battery post and the starter terminal. It should read zero. Crank the engine and see if you get a big reading. It should be very low if the cables are good. You can check the ground cable the same way. Attach the voltmeter between the post and the ground and check for voltage when cranking.
The starters just have bushings and they are frequently dry. A little wheel bearing grease does wonders for slow cranking. The front bushing requires the bendix to be removed,. the back cover falls off when the bolts come out. I make a small hook from welding rod to get the springs up so it will go back together.
 
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