update on leaking tillitson

F

ford28roadster

Member
I took my tillitson apart for the 12th time and set the float at .75. I had tried every setting from .75 to 1.25 inch. it poured out. I took it apart and substituted a float from an old tillitson. now it does not leak at all with gas even left on. on my initial rebuild I had soaked the original float in a strong toilet bowl acid cleaner. it came out shiney and clean like new. this float I tested it boiling water and no leaks. I wonder if the cleaner dis solved some of the copper and lightened the float ? perhaps affecting the buoyancy ? any one ever heard of this possibility ? thanks john
 
Shake the float to see if you can hear any gas inside, then submerge it in hot water to see if any air bubbles come out. If it passes these two checks I call it good.
 
Bought a re-build kit for my tillotson, won't say which part house, sure, it worked good, for a couple of days, then started pouring fuel out.
I found the new float full of fuel, discovered a crack in the "new" float, I put the 84 year old float back in, and she's been running great since.
I'll say it once again...never...ever...throw the old parts away.
 
Does the bad float happen to have a little dimple worn on the arm from contact with the needle ? A little sanding will smooth that up.
Sometimes its hard to get any of these carburetors to not leak.
 
The crack is right in the middle, opposite the the hinge brackets.
From what I can figure it was/is a manufacturing defect, and no, they won't take it back, so there's $30 down the tube.
If I can figure a way to seal the crack it could still be a good unit.
Thinking about cold soldering it, but it's been sitting on my desk for three months and I still have not touched it.
 
It can be soldered to seal it. The material most likely cracked from being formed, work hardened. They probably should have annealed the material first. China part?
 
I think Fullrace is right. Brass can be a funny thing. I bought a sheet of brass and a 1/4" brass tube from the hobby shop. I formed the sheet into a cone and soldered the seam. I then soldered the tube to it so I would have a nice brass funnel to fill the ****** on my motorcycle. I hung the funnel on the wall, and come spring when I went to use it the tube had cracks along the full length. I never could figure that one out, as it was never heated except the very top end where I soldered it.
 
burner31 said:
The crack is right in the middle, opposite the the hinge brackets.
From what I can figure it was/is a manufacturing defect, and no, they won't take it back, so there's $30 down the tube.
If I can figure a way to seal the crack it could still be a good unit.
Thinking about cold soldering it, but it's been sitting on my desk for three months and I still have not touched it.
Click to expand...






The guys are right as always. Floats can be soldered, its fairly common. Just as long as it doesn't become too heavy.
 
Yes to the question "China"
At least that's what I figure.
I'll play the the China float later, but continue using the 84 years old "American" float until it gives out, say maybe another 84 years.
 
Honestly, aren't we being too tough on China, or other foreign built parts? Americans sometimes builds crappy/defective parts, also. If ALL our American parts were PERFECT, then our NEW cars WOULDN'T even need a WARRANTY!
BUT, the criticizing continues, like, "MONKEY HEARS & MONKEY SEZ----------------Is this how WARS start????----And, NO, I'm NOT gonna' run for PRESIDENT!!
Bill W.
 
My Tillitson leaked for over a year, installed new kit, lap seat with tooth paste, changed float setting from 7/8"-1", took top off carburetor and health in hand, struck needle with small hammer, rotated needle and struck four more times. leak stopped.
Thanks
Dana
 
Mine leaked, then when the engine stopped running, I found that the seat had unscrewed. I believe I'll check it again soon!
 
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