Update on Dim headlights & Repair

msmaron

msmaron

Well-known member
Well here is the update. Cleaned everything, all areas of ground, wires, NEW Sockets, bolts, washers etc... Put in halogen SAME EXACT THING.. DIM...terrible! and did i mention i am on an NUREX alternator also.

NEXT:
PUT in 50/32 standard bulbs from Brattons .... BETTER than PERFECT. Brights glowing, running all working incredible!! LOVE it...

BUT why the halogens that i have always used are not working...Very frustrating (and YES the bulbs work they are all NEW....what say you all now???? :confused:
 
Did you ever do the first suggestion and run a jumper lead from the left (drivers) lamp housing to a good ground such as a head nut to see if it brightened?
 
Marco Tahtaras said:
Did you ever do the first suggestion and run a jumper lead from the left (drivers) lamp housing to a good ground such as a head nut to see if it brightened?
Click to expand...

Yes Marco and NO difference at all, has me very puzzled on why the 50/32 work great and the Halogen i get about 2 CP now???:confused:
 
Have you tried putting power to the bulbs while they are out of the sockets with
a couple jumper wires and a battery?

Bob
 
see you just can,t inprove on Henrys set up. Wounder as suggested 12v on 6volt set up , maybe incorrect lable , anyway least you are sorted , Could have sworn it was a weak earth,
 
quickchange said:
see you just can,t inprove on Henrys set up. Wounder as suggested 12v on 6volt set up , maybe incorrect lable , anyway least you are sorted , Could have sworn it was a weak earth,
Click to expand...

Exactly MY thoughts and hope, YES with wire to the bulb they are great.. This is very puzzling to me...:confused:
 
Put the stock bulbs in, and measure the voltage from ground to each side of the bulb.

Then do the same with the halogens. This will show you where the voltage drop is occurring.
 
ok that was one of the first things we did.. check the voltage and we are getting the full six volts....???
 
Something has to be happening in the socket then when you insert the bulbs if you've got 6 volts at the socket and the bulbs work when voltage is directly applied..........................What happens if you swap the bulbs L to R or vice/versa??
Paul in CT
 
msmaron said:
NEXT:
PUT in 50/32 standard bulbs from Brattons .... BETTER than PERFECT. Brights glowing, running all working incredible!! LOVE it...

BUT why the halogens that i have always used are not working...Very frustrating (and YES the bulbs work they are all NEW....what say you all now???? :confused:
Click to expand...

The reason the 50/32 bulbs appear to work fine and the halogens don't is very simple. You still have excessive resistance in the circuit somewhere. The halogens draw enough more current for the problem to be evident. To put it another way, the halogen bulb's requirements exceed the supply and the incandescent bulb does not. There will still be a difference in the light output from left to right but it's obviously so minimal that you can't distinguish it.

Now, if the problem occurs with only one beam of the bulb then it's in the wiring and most likely a breakdown due to lack of soldering at a wire end (repro wiring isn't soldered like original). If the problem persists with BOTH high and low beams then I'd say the odds are about 99% that one of your tests was faulty and you still have a grounding problem.

In your other post you said "BUT i did notice when the bulb is in and on and i push on it, it gets brighter AND then dims". Does that still happen? are you saying that it dims when you release it or that when you apply pressure it brightens but while maintaining pressure it fades back to dim?
 
When you get 6V on one side of the bulb, what do your read on the OTHER side of the same bulb?

Also, I doubt it is "6V". It is probably 6 point something.
 
Relays shouldn't be needed and I wouldn't add more complication to a simple circuit. In the Army I worked on control panels for missle launchers and they even had relays to engage relays. That made no sense to me, but that's what happens with government contracts and someone has stock in a relay company. :mad:
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Relays shouldn't be needed and I wouldn't add more complication to a simple circuit. In the Army I worked on control panels for missle launchers and they even had relays to engage relays. That made no sense to me, but that's what happens with government contracts and someone has stock in a relay company. :mad:
Click to expand...
Maybe the extra relays were to prevent accidental firing from power surges or EMP?
 
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