Update on amp meter post!!!!

DeBordEngineMan

DeBordEngineMan

Senior Member
Me again guys well tried all the suggestions for the generator to show a charge on the amp meter tried the wire to polarize the cutout/generator did not work then I tried tapping the cutout again just in case if the points were stuck wrong thing to do:eek: I tapped it, sparks flew out from the cutout and wires from generator started to smoke cutout got very hot amp meter shot to 30 amp discharge and smoked the amp meter got to the battery disconnect very quickly no wires burnt but I think meter is fried? Checked battery very quickly today to see if it would still turn over the engine it did but may have damaged battery? So I am going to go with an 6 volt alternator setup as far as looks go I don't like, but all around performance alternator should do a lot better job for my "driver" so thanks for all the help on my other post about this problem, hope I get this problem fixed with a new alternator setup before I burn down the car and garage! Thanks again Robert DeBord
 
When you order the alternator, also order one of those fuse blocks that mount beside the starter switch. It could save your car and house; you may not be out of the woods yet. I smoked a lot wires before I wised up.

I think you'll really like your alternator. The only surprise that it might hold (depending on machining tolerances and residual magnetism) is that you may need to goose the motor up to 1000 rpms or so before it starts charging. Don't be tempted to buy the higher output models than you need; they take higher rpms to wake up.

Your experience is a good example that fuses are to protect the wiring, not the instruments. (The ammeter is a lot like a wire.) It's the wires that get hot enough to cause a fire first. Fuse rating is determined by smallest diameter wire in the circuit.

Steve
 
It really shouldn't take much to get your generator working correctly, even when installing one of Tom's EVRs and an original cut-out..
 
Also order the new VOLT meter Snyders is selling. It fits right in place of the amp meter, and is a hole lot safer then the amp meter, which just happens to be next to the gas tank. And its an easy hook up, and has a built in light so you know whats happening at night. 6 or 12 Volt. Iceman
 
Hey guys went to local Model A parts store today and bought an alternator, yes it is nice to have a stocking dealer within 40 minutes from home! I got the high output for the same price as the lower one because he was out of the regular output one, also if I change to the halogen bulbs later on I will be set,put it on and a new amp meter and a fuse block on starter it seems to be working good!! As you said Steve S you have to give it a little gas to "wake" it up, with throttle opened up pretty good it gos to around 25 amps then if lights are on drops to around 15 amps and more if you toot the horn at idle speed after you give it a little gas to "wake it up so to speak" it stays right at 10 amps with nothing on. Also horn is louder and sounds better and lights are brighter and seems that the car is running better? Maybe that is just me? So I think everything is working the way it should I am so tickled the way it performs:D, hey Iceman thanks for the tip on the volt meter I will have to check it out, Let me know if this sound like everything is working right, thanks everybody Robert DeBord.
 
DeBordEngineMan said:
...Let me know if this sound like everything is working right, thanks everybody Robert DeBord.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, Robert. This is why the world has switched to alternators. Enjoy! Eventually, the no-laod charging rate will drop from 10 amps down to 1 or 2. The alternator is topping off your battery after all of your playing around.

Someday if you get adventurous again, there are ways to rig it so it starts charging immediately, without revving the motor.

Steve
 
In regards to revving the engine to excite the alternator.

many alternators have a 2nd + wire that runs to the battery light in the dash and then to the battery + terminal. This lead is used to give the alternator a field so it can start putting out immediately. The reason it goes through a bulb is if the alternator is pulling current from this lead it means its not producing its own internal field therefore has a problem.

If someone can supply a model number and brand of one of these alternators i'd be glad to help out. I assume all you would do on an A is run the field wire to the switched side of the key so when you turn the key on, the alternator's rotor is ready to go before the engine even starts. Once the alternator is spinning at a decent rpm it would no longer pull current from this lead. This is assuming you have a negative ground layout. If you are using positive ground you would need to rid a relay up. I would assume all A's converted to alternators are also converted to negative ground as well??



P.S. i'm going to be adding a fuse to isolate the headlights\tailights\horn from the generator on our A soon, im curious if anyone has a general idea of what kind of current draw i'm looking at when all the lights and horn are on? I'm assuming i'm looking at in excess of 10A. Probably going to go with a 15A fuse. I'm using a 20A fuse to isolate everything from the starter\battery.
 
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