Up Grades?

The maximum relates directly to the condition of the engine and how often you wish to fix or replace. Mine likes 35-50 anytime. I have driven slower and faster. Never thrown a rod but I did shear an axle and a universal joint.
 
Bill,

Two things: One is it me or the way the picture was taken of your light bar, but it looks like it has a kink right in the middle? Maybe they did that in 31 for all I know.

Also, you may consider upgrading the carb. You can go with a Model B and ported manifold (MPG WILL go down), a Tillotson should give you more oomph and not kill the MPG to much, or a Marvel carb.

Mike
 
2200 rpm is the top of the power curve. A engine in "as new" condition can sustain it for as long as the driver can, i.e., pee stops. But it is not wise to do it. I certainly wouldn't do that with a un-balanced rebuilt engine.
Like J. Franklin says 35 to 45 mph all day, every day.
 
BillCNC said:
Hi Guy's

Thanks for all the great responses, sure are a few things to think about. I have mastered the timing lever, ... after adjusting the Fuel Adjusting Needle, the car runs much better (don't let the grand-kids sit in the front seat while your back is turned). Don't worry, wheels are chocked when I'm not in it. One other add-on I want to do is a battery cut off switch. I don't want that starter button live 24/7. I also ordered a California Car Cover, ... Yikes, that hurt! Since my car has the luggage rack behind the spare they need to make it and they said it will be 2.5 weeks until delivery leaving her outside unprotected.

Art;

My trans is just fine, no whining or sounds of any kind so if I did go with the Mitchell trans I would keep my trans because the core charge is only $100.00. I do think I am going to get the overdrive simply so I don't have to have my foot nailed on the floor board everywhere I go and feeling like I'm ridding a jack hammer. Right now I have a clutch that's getting soft and needs to be dealt with and the lead time on Mitchell products are about 12 weeks.

Why do you say you would have left it alone, … did you not like it, or wasn't worth the value for the trouble, or you didn't like the gear change?

Regards
Bill
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I guess what I mean is that I'd be fine with the stock configuration, but since I needed to repair or replace the worn out components, I opted for alternator and a synchronized transmission. I really like the 15% over gear rations, they seem to fit the car really well. The shift pattern is also much tighter than stock, it keeps the shifter lever from jabbing into my leg!

Your car looks great!
 
Bill, congratulations on your new ride! I think you made a great choice.

Considering fender, apron, front end issues.... Looking at photos, there appears to be a problem with the frame rail or at least the horn on the right side. Area of concern indicated by arrows. Frame should be straight as shown in second photo. A string and straight edge is your friend to determine how much it's off.

Don't let anyone talk you into removing the Air-Maze. I spent a lot of time playing in the Glamis Sand dunes so I know how dusty it can get there in So Cal. I would however recommend changing the filter element to a K&N E9257[FONT=&quot]. It's 5-1/2" long and doesn't fatten A/F mixture.

If you have problems with fuel leaking from the air horn, I would recommend a[/FONT] Hi Boy style air cleaner.
 

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Y-Blockhead said:
A couple of "upgrades" I would recommend and haven't seen mentioned is the addition of LED Tail Lights and Turn Signals for nothing else but SAFETY.
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I agree 100% on this one. Especially if you do any night driving.

I have led and turn signals. I was driving behind a buddy of mine who does not have turn signals. Every time he put his hand out to make a turn people thought he was waving and would wave back. They had no clue what he was doing. Never mind night driving.
 
Dollar Bill said:
Don't let anyone talk you into removing the Air-Maze. I spent a lot of time playing in the Glamis Sand dunes so I know how dusty it can get there in So Cal. I would however recommend changing the filter element to a K&N E9257[FONT=&quot]. It's 5-1/2" long and doesn't fatten A/F mixture.

If you have problems with fuel leaking from the air horn, I would recommend a[/FONT] Hi Boy style air cleaner.
Click to expand...

Like your heat shield for your K&N, you make it?

Not so sure about your "engine pan" tho... :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
I strongly suggest you drive the car as is for a year or so before you make these or any mechanical upgrades, one up-grade you definitely do not need is a Synchronized transmission you will learn to shift and yes even down shift with more seat time, it actually fun! as far as the overdrive just install a 3:54 rear it is a great rear for local driving, bottom line get to know your car and remember this car was designed for the 20s & 30s not for the super highways of today it is a very enjoyable and trouble free car when used around town or on trips taking when taking no interstate roadways :)


BillCNC said:
Hello All,

Well I have been driving my new 31 Tudor and am loving it, ... Although I do admit, the timing advance lever does take a bit of getting used to. I'm now going over the car and I'm making my hit list of things I either need to repair, alter or redo. One good thing, … the list is small so far and with my fingers crossed, it'll stay that way.

I am thinking of a few upgrades and wanted your opinions or experiences. Also since I'm still learning, are there other upgrades I should think about as well? Please keep in mind my main goal is to keep the car as stock looking as possible.

1). Mitchell Overdrive http://mitchelloverdrivemfg.com/products/model-a-overdrive/
2). Mitchell Synchronized Transmission http://mitchelloverdrivemfg.com/products/model-a-transmission/
3). Electronic Ignition with the stock look, … Any recommendations?
4). From 6v – 12v, … Any recommendations?


Regards
Bill
Click to expand...
 
Good afternoon...I have had Model A's from the 60's... on and off... and I would say that the Model B Carb with a B intake manifold is worth the money. A Snyder 5.5 head is good if your engine has been rebuilt recently. When you add compression on the top, you add more strain to the rods and mains. The same goes for the Mitchell Overdrive. An older somewhat worn engine will not be happy with the 5.5 or the Mitchell. The B Carb will give you a bit of extra zip without hurting anything. A stock distributor with a modern upper plate is nice...otherwise just clean and adjust. Keep your cruising speed at or below 40. Use 10-30 detergent oil and change it every 500 miles. Lube all 31 zerk fittings every 500 miles and enjoy. Ernie
 
Hello Gent's,

I don't want the Mitchell trans but I will be getting the Mitchell OD in a few months. I am going to be working on her for the next few weeks. I just ordered about $850. Between Snyders and Macs, tons of small parts, along with a few bigger ones. Right now I'm trying to work loose the right rear hub off. I got the left rear off OK without a puller, so I'll try a little longer before I have to buy one. The only major work will be the Clutch, pressure plate and bearing, motor mounts along with the front spring. While I have the motor out for the clutch, I'll doll it up also. As far as the Ignition, I went with a modern plate, points and condensor.

Regards
Bill
 
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See my info. If you change rear gear go with 3:27 and add 5.9 or 6.0 head , that will get you the most bang for your bucks. Have fun modelAtony tony white Lafayette, LA
 
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Hi Bill, You sure have a very nice looking car. The interior looks really looks nice too. Give that baby another wax job when it cools down some and take the family for a ride to the ice cream stand and have fun driving it around.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Like your heat shield for your K&N, you make it? Not so sure about your "engine pan" tho... :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Thanks YB and yes, the heat shield was just some sheet metal I had laying around. Riveted a stand off bracket to the back side to accept the hose clamp. Couldn't bear the thought of frying the brand new $45 air filter.

Maybelline came without engine pans - What you see in pix is cardboard laying on the floor. She's a proper lady now, replete and wearing shiny new ones.
 
BillCNC said:
Hello Gent's,

I don't want the Mitchell trans but I will be getting the Mitchell OD in a few months. I am going to be working on her for the next few weeks. I just ordered about $850. Between Snyders and Macs, tons of small parts, along with a few bigger ones. Right now I'm trying to work loose the right rear hub off. I got the left rear off OK without a puller, so I'll try a little longer before I have to buy one. The only major work will be the Clutch, pressure plate and bearing, motor mounts along with the front spring. While I have the motor out for the clutch, I'll doll it up also. As far as the Ignition, I went with a modern plate, points and condensor.

Regards
Bill
Click to expand...
Bill,

If you got the tub off without a puller if was probably too loose. The torque on the rear axle nut should be 100 to 200 ft-lbs depending on who you are talking to. I tend to go with the higher figure. Check the archives. You can rent a puller from: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_tools_forsale.htm Sometimes local clubs have them to loan. Do you have hydraulic brakes?

Charlie Stephens
 
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