Hello All,
Well I have been driving my new 31 Tudor and am loving it, ... Although I do admit, the timing advance lever does take a bit of getting used to. I'm now going over the car and I'm making my hit list of things I either need to repair, alter or redo. One good thing, … the list is small so far and with my fingers crossed, it'll stay that way.
I am thinking of a few upgrades and wanted your opinions or experiences. Also since I'm still learning, are there other upgrades I should think about as well? Please keep in mind my main goal is to keep the car as stock looking as possible.
1). Mitchell Overdrive
http://mitchelloverdrivemfg.com/products/model-a-overdrive/
2). Mitchell Synchronized Transmission
http://mitchelloverdrivemfg.com/products/model-a-transmission/
3). Electronic Ignition with the stock look, … Any recommendations?
4). From 6v – 12v, … Any recommendations?
Regards
Bill
1) Unless you intend to get into real heavy long distance touring I would forget the Mitchell overdrive and put 3.54 gears in the rear end as a low priority. Of course check to see that you don't already have them. Tom Endy is the "go to" guy for rear end rebuilding in Southern California. Search on his name.
2) Since I have never had problems driving my A with double clutching I wouldn't personally spend the money on the synchronized transmission.
3) When it comes to the distributer I am get wild. I have a Model B distributer in my truck. Put on a Model B timing cover and then timing the distributer is the same as a stock Model A. The centrifugal advance of the Model B distributer makes it easier for other people to drive my truck and a little more pleasant for me. It looks the same as a Model A except the advance rod is missing and the condenser is in a slightly different location.
4)There is only one good reason to change to 12 volts. You can get some very bright headlights. Otherwise 6 volts is fine. Whatever you do don't go to an alternator. They look like &%@* (at least to me). If the headlights are dim be sure all your grounds and contacts are clean, the wires are the right size and get the reproduction headlight reflectors from Bratton's Ford Parts, (301) 829-9880 (no other company has the high quality ones you need). The parts suppliers also have more powerful (compared to standard) headlight bulbs. If the engine cranks over slowly be sure the battery cables are designed for 6 volts (they are heavier than the 12 volt cables). Start with the reflectors as you will want them if you go 12 volts anyway. Two higher powered headlights bulbs are not that expensive to try. If you end up at 12 volts check out the "brite" bulbs from Ron Francis Wire Works,
https://www.ronfrancis.com, (800) 292-1940.
Now for a couple of things I would do:
1) Make sure the brakes are 100% (as I mentioned before contact Randy Gross)
2) Check the date codes on the tires (see archives). I would make sure they are newer than 10 years before you do any high speed driving. Some people recommend less but you might want to research it. If you need to replace the tires consider blackwalls. It is a personal thing but I like them better, they are less expensive and they are easier to keep clean. I like your existing tires and rims (I assume they are 1935, 16 inch wire wheels with 1932 4 cylinder hub caps) but if you want to go back to the original 19 inch rims be sure to do it at the time you replace the tires.
3) Be sure you have two tail lights in the rear (they came with one). One is all that is legally required but a second one might avoid an accident.
4) Add turn signals. California drivers are crazy and nobody knows what hand signals mean anymore. Besides that, hand signals don't work very well at night. Some people use the cowl lights for the front turn signals but era correct fog lights work also.
5) Add a fuse to the electrical system. Be sure to get a quality one, there are some cheap ones out there.
6) If you still have an original 2 blade fan replace it with a reproduction 2 blade aluminum one. The original ones have an unacceptable (at least to me) failure rate (see archives)
&) Make sure the rear axle nuts are tight. I have seen torque specs going from 100 pounds to about 200 pounds. I go with the higher number. If the axles won't take it they need to be replaced. Read the archives.
7) If you need to remove the rear hub/drum assembly be sure to use the correct puller. I use the reproduction KR Wilson puller. Cheap pullers will do a lot of damage.
8) Add a high compression aftermarket cast iron head, but ONLY if you have the head off for some other reason.
9) Consider adding a trunk and moving the spare tire to the rear if you intend to tour with more then 2 people.
10) Buy a copy of the judging standards from MARC/MAFCA and consult it when you buy parts. Frequently the right part cost the same as the wrong part so you might as well have the right part on your car.
10) Check out any major suppliers and builders in the archives before you commit. As with anything today there are a lot of flakes out there.
11) Please respond to my email on that other topic, I need to close it out.
Keep in mind that if you make too many changes you lose all of the "charm" of the Model A and you might as well go out and buy a Honda (which I think is a very good car). Go very slow on your changes. Remember "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I am sure you will get other equally valid suggestions and opinions.
From your pictures on the other thread it looks like you have found a very good car.
Charlie Stephens
