universal joint problem

beast_3

beast_3

Member
I'm posting this for a friend who isn't computer literate.
He replaced the universal joint in his '30 4-door recently and has developed a knock that sounds like it's coming from the area of the universal joint. It seems more noticeable after the engine has heated up a bit and when he let up on the gas or is cruising around 35 mph on a smooth city street.
He said its on tight and the covers are in place correctly. He thinks it may be hitting the inner cover.
The replacement and apparently is a foreign made part and the dealer told him was the only one available and they admitted it wasn't a perfect fit but only one made. His old one was the riveted style that apparently is not rebuild-able.

Anyway, does anyone have any experiences with these replacement U-joints and/or a fix for the noisy joint?

Or a source for a better repo part or good rebuilt U-joints?

Thanks!
Beast
 
There is a special lock washer (A-7095 you can see a picture in Snyder's catalog)) that must be installed to hold the u-joint in its proper attitude. Was that installed?
 
I think there was a recent thread regarding this same subject. If I remember correctly the owner ended up slightly grinding the cover.
NOS joints are still available as are good originals.
 
The joint sold by Bob Drake and others is not appropriate for the Model A. If it fits a V-8 it doesent fit the Model A. If you check the original you will find it is constructed so the cross can float radially. The "new" joints do not. That causes undue strain on the bearings in the transmission and torque tube. The best solution is to find a good original. That's what I did. Ron W
 
Ron W said:
The joint sold by Bob Drake and others is not appropriate for the Model A. If it fits a V-8 it doesent fit the Model A. If you check the original you will find it is constructed so the cross can float radially. The "new" joints do not. That causes undue strain on the bearings in the transmission and torque tube. The best solution is to find a good original. That's what I did. Ron W
Click to expand...


If this is true how come the Ford parts book shows u-joint part B-7090 1928-48 :eek:

Bob
 
Bob Drake's web site says,"Originally on 1936-48 Lincoln". If you cannot tell the difference between an original and the one being offered you may not understand why Beast 3's friend has a problem.
Bob C; I don't know what book you refer to but, I think you will find the part number for a Model A joint is A-7090.
quickchange; If the driveline is alligned well you may have no problem. The original joint was made with a floating cross to compensate for any misalignment in the driveline. Many people use the B-7090 and have no perceptible problem.
I chose to use the good original. You may choose what what you wish. Ron W
 
It's not the same part! If the cross does not float, it's not an A-7090. If you can't tell them apart, you'll be happy with either one. I've explained the difference twice. That should be enough. If you would like to argue the point, don't do it here, send me a PM. Ron W
 
I would bet the Ford dealers were weaned off the original style U-joint to the later style because Ford did things by the #'s. Quantity equaled money and streamlined production. Also dealers would probably check and sell more driveline alignments. It would be interesting to see the parts books and dealer letters during those years.
 
Here's the 1932 parts book. The 1948 parts book shows the u-joint rebuild
kit B-7084 as used up to 1948.

Bob
 

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Apparently I am not very good at expressing myself. Bob is correct about the parts being sold by Ford in the 30
 
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Even after editing the message was not complete? this is the last try.

Apparently I am not very good at expressing myself. Bob is correct about the parts being sold by Ford in the 30’s. They are not the same as parts being sold today under those numbers. I will try not to confuse you further by additional comment Ron W
 
Ron W said:
The joint sold by Bob Drake and others is not appropriate for the Model A. If it fits a V-8 it doesent fit the Model A. If you check the original you will find it is constructed so the cross can float radially. The "new" joints do not. That causes undue strain on the bearings in the transmission and torque tube. The best solution is to find a good original. That's what I did. Ron W
Click to expand...

I purchased a Bob Drake universal for my 29 A-Model Ford.

If you take the front bearing out of the torque tube it will work perfectly. The universal will locate the front of the rear drive shaft as it does for many cars from Nascars to Kenworth trucks. This is how Edsel Ford should have designed it in the first place.

The same will apply to all 28-48 fords.
 
Tony_47 said:
I purchased a Bob Drake universal for my 29 A-Model Ford.

If you take the front bearing out of the torque tube it will work perfectly. The universal will locate the front of the rear drive shaft as it does for many cars from Nascars to Kenworth trucks. This is how Edsel Ford should have designed it in the first place.

The same will apply to all 28-48 fords.
Click to expand...

Since you don't want the front of the driveshaft to have any vibration where the speedometer gears meet, I'd rather use the drivehaft bearing and Ford's U joint.:)
 
If you look at page 564 of the model A service bulletins you will see what is thought of as the "V8" universal joint, in 32 all part #s that were carried over from the A got a "B" prefix, the parts that only fit the A stayed with the "A" prefix

If you take the driveshaft bearing out and let a "modern" u[-joint center the driveshaft the seal will have trouble with the sideways movement of the driveshaft ---and I don't think the speedo gear will like it that much either
 
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