Unfixable random cutting out

duke36 said:
similar problem. Check the carb viton tipped needles if used. Some may be better than others as they can stick from the ethanol gas though supposedly not the case. Also, if using a modern oil filled coil, they like to be mounted with terminals up to keep the windings covered for better cooling. The stock originals were filled with a tarlike substance and could be mounted terminals down..
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Viton tipped needles will stick and stop the fuel flow. I remember in the late fifties early sixties Ford tried a nylon float valve in some carburetors. Living in Alaska, we would add a can of Heet to the tank on occasion to absorb moisture and prevent the fuel system from freezing. The Heet melted the float valve and the result was not pretty.
 
A typical waste of time thread.

3 pages of guessing and the OP has not bothered to come back.

Save yer breath
 
I really do not consider it a waste of time if you read these threads you are bound to learn something which unfortunately the man with a problem that is totally unfixable will not and that's why his problem is unfixable

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
 
All of the above are good things to check. The little wire in the bottom of the distributor might be frayed. If you have the little fuse block on the side of the starter, I have seen them become lose at the rivet and short intermittently, producing what you are experiencing. The new little fuse blocks are much stronger than the old ones. Take the fuse block off and wire it like Henry made it and see if all is well. If so, purchase a new fuse block. Ernie
 
So what do you all use for float needles if the vitons stick? I've found the brass to brass and metal to metal depending on valve not to seal well, even the grose jet types.

Also, how hot do your (12volt) oil filled coils get with internal resistors ? Tried 3 different oil filled brands with terminals up and they all get pretty consistently hot to touch.
 
Check the pig tail wire between the condenser and the points. Mine was frayed slightly and acted the same way. Also a friend of mine experienced the same thing just last week. Lots of things could cause your problem but this is one of them.
 
pooch said:
A typical waste of time thread.

3 pages of guessing and the OP has not bothered to come back.

Save yer breath
Click to expand...

Interesting. Original poster of this thread has not visited the site since he posted his question. Hope nothing bad happened on his end.
 
Hi Guys

My sincere apologies for not having replied sooner and for looking like I was an ingrate and wasting your valuable time and kindness. That is absolutely not the case, I assure you.

The thing is that this A is a daily driver and the cutoutalitis has been driving me absolutely crazy. I tried every fix you guys suggested and just when the problem looked liked it was gone, it resurfaced. Absolutely at random. So I didn't want to reply until I found what it was. And now I have.

It was the needle and seat. I replaced it and instantly felt a sweetness of engine speed and responsiveness. I can only conclude that because my A does high mileage, the steel "needle" (ball) eventually wore out the brass seat, and must have created a situation where for some reason it didn't release, starving the engine of gas (fuel... btw I having been using Shell V Power 95 unleaded for many years now... I figure the engine needs all the help it can get in the hectic Johannesburg traffic). Then, when the temperature cooled down (i.e. the five minutes waiting period) the ball must have released itself, providing fuel again... and then the process repeated itself. I am now 100% certain that the problem has been fixed because I put the new needle and seat in yesterday and did some serious highway work (i.e. under load) and the A has not missed a beat and is going like a Boeing.

So the lesson that I have learned from this is that no matter how experienced we become there is always something new to learn. The upside is that all the electrical connections are now **** and span, all the wiring is checked and solid, I have a spare coil and condenser and points on hand and I know that my ignition switch is hunky dory and I can now also remove and clean and replace my Zenith with the speed of a NASCAR mechanic.

I want to thank you guys for your amazing approach to helping a forlorn, desperate A owner on the other side of the world. America is truly a great country.

With warmest regards,
Chris Van
 
Thanks for the update! Always nice to hear what someone finds as we cannot see or touch it we have to spout off any ideas we have.
 
Glad that you have the problem solved. You noted that you are using Shell 95 gasoline. I'm assuming that is a 95 octane fuel. Unless you have a high compression engine that needs the higher octane to prevent pre-ignition you would be better off using a lower octane fuel. Higher octane fuels are harder to burn to prevent pre-ignition. Lower octane fuels will ignite better and give more power than high octane fuels.
 
Hi Dave

Thanks... yes 95 octane you are correct. The only other option we have here is 93 octane (also unleaded) which is slightly cheaper too. I will try that for a while and see if I can detect any difference in performance... although the A is so low tech it may just be in my mind!
 
If Shell is using Ethanol in 93 gas and none in 95 you might start having all of the wonderful symptoms of ethanol!
 
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Chris, I had the same problem several years ago found out the wire running through the metal cable to the distributer was shorting out. Replaced with a new wire haven’t had that problem since.


Bill
 
Chris, I had the same problem several years ago found out the wire running through the metal cable to the distributer was shorting out. Replaced with a new wire haven’t had that problem since.
 
I didn't take the time to read all the responses, so this may have been covered in one. There is a (What we in America call) "pigtail" wire in the distributor that carries voltage to the points. This short wire has been a source of much frustration among model A owners in the US. The real problem is that you can't be sure if it's a fuel or electrical problem. Now, many people in the past tried to seal their tanks in God only know what. I have a tank that was sealed by the manufacturer but that "latex"? sealer is peeling off in large and small pieces (sheets). If you're not aware this condition in your steel gas can, you won't be aware of pieces of this sealer clogging your tank outlet. The stuff will slosh around and intermittently block the outlet, causing a missing situation. This is what comes to mind at first glance. I hope this helps !
Terry
 
I read this post from beginning to end! Lots of stuff! Glad to get to the end and find a solution! Got to thinking back to my dads model A, and on occasion, the engine would just die and he would get out and beat the bowl of the carb with a screw driver handle! Same problem I would venture of a stuck float valve, he just found a way to deal with breaking it loose, without actually fixing the problem!
 
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