Undercarriage Steam Cleaning

philipswanson said:
Did that............ nobody. They list upholstery steam cleaning.

Phil
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Whenever I ask Google something, I choose the words that are on my mind at the time. ( I've had my wife say to me, "what do I ask for?" whatever you are thinking) Just say auto chassis steam clean in San Diego Ca. You will see several names, plus a Yelp sight with many ( including map), and a Yellow Pages list. Try again:)
 
Yes, I did find a place that would do it. Amar's in Spring Valley for anyone else in this area. About $150. Well worth it! Thanks to all that replied.
 
philipswanson said:
Need to steam clean under my 40 wagon. Anybody know a place in the San Diego area that still does it? Thanks, Phil Swanson
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If I was to steam clean my motor.. aside from sealing around the carburetor, distributor, wires/plugs & coil... anything else I should seal to prevent water entering into components? :rolleyes:
 
Walt
Clean the engine and bay, then use air pressure to dry every thing off. Specially the distributor caps and wires and conduits.
Then you might need to do it again in the morning.
Bruce
 
IMHO, and assuming the desire is to clean a vintage car (i.e. not a tow truck), I would hope the steam cleaning would be done in prevailing warm weather, with low/no pressure and at best with a mild cleaning agent. If a body-off restoration of the frame and undercarriage has been done I would not do it .... it could harm/remove finishes.

The process should include a careful masking/protection of certain engine compartment and under carriage parts .... ignition, gas supply, wood floor panels, under-floor battery, electrical connections, connector strips, bulbs/sockets, radiator core, brake parts, steering/suspension fittings, shifting linkage bushings/fittings, exposed leaf springs and rubber bushings. Most of those parts should not be cleaned and those that may, should be hand cleaned.

Following cleaning, the steering linkage, springs, king pins, shift linkage etc should be re-greased, rubber parts sprayed with a protectorant/lubricant, and bare metal repainted/coated.
 
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the construction company where i work has a super high pressure hot water washer, that thing knocks you back like the recoil from a shot gun when you pull the trigger. really, you have to stand with your legs spread. it will take off paint and decals if you stay in one spot. i usually drive one or two of my cars to work each summer just to give them a good bath. usually they wont start without some drying, and even then run rough for a few miles. i got a 14 mile commute, so that dries em out good enough. on old unrestored cars it will take off that 1/2" of crud on cross members etc, right down to original paint or bare steel. its good to drive it afterwards to dry everything real well
 
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