Under floor Master Cylinder Brake Bleeding

Has anyone done a complete brake job on their car and then taken it to a professional brake shop for bleeding? They must have the time saving tools and ability to do this. Trailer it to them and have them do it? Just wondering if that's an option as it sounds like the installation of parts is not the issue, but the bleeding is. I'd rather loose a mechanic than a girlfriend. Wait a minute...depends on the mechanic.
 
SoCalCoupe said:
Poured some of what I bled out of the system into a deli container lid then poured some new DOT 3 fluid from the auto parts store into it. They did not mix, like oil and water. Then poured some water into it. The water mixed with the new DOT 3 but not the old stuff. Couldn't say that proves 100% the old stuff is DOT 5 but those would be the symptoms.
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"Hydroscopic brake fluids are those that absorb moisture from the air, which includes DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1. These fluids are glycol-ether based and can absorb moisture, leading to a gradual decrease in their boiling point over time. This characteristic makes them less suitable for vehicles that sit unused for long periods, as the absorbed moisture can cause corrosion and reduce performance. DOT 5 brake fluid, however, is silicone-based and is not hydroscopic, making it more suitable for vehicles that are stored for extended periods without use."

"DOT 5

DOT 5 is a silicone-based fluid and is separate from the series of DOT 2, 3, 4, 5.1. It is immiscible with water, and with other brake fluids, and must not be mixed with them. Systems can change fluid only after a complete system changeover, such as a total restoration."
 
signsup said:
Has anyone done a complete brake job on their car and then taken it to a professional brake shop for bleeding? They must have the time saving tools and ability to do this. Trailer it to them and have them do it? Just wondering if that's an option as it sounds like the installation of parts is not the issue, but the bleeding is. I'd rather loose a mechanic than a girlfriend. Wait a minute...depends on the mechanic.
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bleeding usually pretty easy even with underfloor MC
 
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned using a pressure bleeder, such as the one by Motive Power-fast, easy, efficient and does a great job getting air out of even difficult setups. My '36 is converted to hydraulics with the usual single-circuit master, I have a spare MC cap with a nipple for 5/16 hose JB Welded to it-bleeding takes just a few minutes and is strictly a one person job. I never use any other method, I have a variety of vehicles and it's easy to make up an adapter for most any MC.
Adam
 
Adam/Mill Valley CA said:
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned using a pressure bleeder, such as the one by Motive Power-fast, easy, efficient and does a great job getting air out of even difficult setups. My '36 is converted to hydraulics with the usual single-circuit master, I have a spare MC cap with a nipple for 5/16 hose JB Welded to it-bleeding takes just a few minutes and is strictly a one person job. I never use any other method, I have a variety of vehicles and it's easy to make up an adapter for most any MC.
Adam
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Read up the thread . . . a bunch of folks mentioned them . . . some calling them "speed bleeders".
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Read up the thread . . . a bunch of folks mentioned them . . . some calling them "speed bleeders".
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Speed-Bleeders are a different thing entirely. They are replacement bleeder screws with a built-in check valve.

Perhaps if I get a pressure bleeder and use it with my Speed-Bleeders, the brakes might bleed themselves?:eek:
 
Ha ha tubman, I like that idea!

See below for speed bleeders vs pressure bleeder

Adam
 

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