Ultimate Model A O/D

[CarlG]

Carl, excellent!! Thanks for the info. I'm not ready to purchase an O/D yet (Read lack of funds) but that is probably a good thing now that I see there are choices.

I find that what I really need is a gear between 2nd and 3rd and a synchro 2nd for downshifting. I do most of my driving around town.

Carl, another question. With the shifter moved back it should also improve "leg clearance". True? I have long legs and I find it difficult to step on the brakes while in first.

The shifter is only moved back about 2 inches or less. Most people can't tell that it's been moved back at all. First gear on this transmission is where Reverse is on your Model A Transmission, so that should help you out there somewhat.

The ideal to get what you want: splitting the difference between 2 & 3 would be the Mitchell Overdrive. To get a synchro 2nd, the Mitchell Model A transmission (separate item to their OD) has that. I have no experience with either of these, but I considered this before I bought my "Ultimate OD" from Dave.

 

[christian]

I installed this kit in my fordor this past winter, everything you need is included. From the day I sent out my radius rods, torque tube and driveshaft to dave it took about a month to receive the finished products in the mail.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

The ideal to get what you want: splitting the difference between 2 & 3 would be the Mitchell Overdrive. To get a synchro 2nd, the Mitchell Model A transmission (separate item to their OD) has that.

I do like the gear splitter option of the Mitchell.

In my limited research the Mitchell has a "neutral" so you put the Mitchell in "neutral", downshift to second , then put the Mitchell back in "gear". So you don't really need a synchro second (or any synchros). Just weighing the options. Thanks so much for answering my questions.

 

[willowbilly3]

To anyone ambitious enough to tackle their own, there are a couple different ratios, the 6 cyl, and 302 is the .78 but if you can find a ****** from a 351 it had more overdrive. You use an AA truck bell housing (shorter) and a V8 throw out bearing. You have to build new pedal mounts and a new parking brake mount, but that's pretty simple. A machinist to build the adapter and yoke connector and to shorten and re-spline the driveshaft. Shortening the tube and radius arms is pretty straight forward for anyone who can weld. All together you could probably do you own for under a grand. I think the already made kit is closer to $4000 or more. Ken was getting $2700 for his 10 years ago and was the cheapest guy around. I don't know if he's still doing them.