U Joint

29Cabriolet

29Cabriolet

Senior Member
Hi All:
Back in July, I started a thread about my breakdown and impending repairs. Here's an update! The problem was the u joint. I purchased a new one but it doesn't fit right. The front casting dimension is off such that it doesn't seat flush against the spline. (That shows clearly in the photos.) Started the washer but didn't tighten because it felt like it was bending out of shape (concave). The throat of the new U joint is 1-1/2 deep, while the old one is 1-7/16. So that is why it's not seating properly. I wonder if it's just a bad repro and maybe I should get one from a different manufacturer(?) I also considered machining the casting but would like to avoid that if possible. Has anyone encountered this, and if so what can be done to achieve a better fit?
 

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huh yea thats definitely an issue. i have heard SOME of the new u joints yokes are too square so the corners will hit the bell that covers it - your replacement looks like its got too square of edges so be aware of that as well...
 
Yes I did get a heads up already one that as well. But it seemed it was very close - so close that it may not make any contact with the housing if it was seated where it belongs.
 
Another issue that I have had is the splined bores of the two yokes were badly out of alignment with each other. By the way, I think that first picture is about right; shaft just short of the counterbore for the special washer with the single tooth. The washer will flatten out slightly when tightened. Kind of like the front pulley threads recently where the crank snout was flush or proud of pulley, leaving the pulley not snug to the timing gear and splash shield - loose and banging on the keyway.
 
29Cabriolet said:
Hi All:
Back in July, I started a thread about my breakdown and impending repairs. Here's an update! The problem was the u joint. I purchased a new one but it doesn't fit right. The front casting dimension is off such that it doesn't seat flush against the spline. (That shows clearly in the photos.) Started the washer but didn't tighten because it felt like it was bending out of shape (concave). The throat of the new U joint is 1-1/2 deep, while the old one is 1-7/16. So that is why it's not seating properly. I wonder if it's just a bad repro and maybe I should get one from a different manufacturer(?) I also considered machining the casting but would like to avoid that if possible. Has anyone encountered this, and if so what can be done to achieve a better fit?
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Suggest you order an older original from Bert's or buy a repair kit and rebuild an original. Been told by a reliable source that some of the newer ones are Chinese junk. Too much work to replace these and not worth experimenting with something that questionable.
 
100IH said:
Another issue that I have had is the splined bores of the two yokes were badly out of alignment with each other. By the way, I think that first picture is about right; shaft just short of the counterbore for the special washer with the single tooth. The washer will flatten out slightly when tightened. Kind of like the front pulley threads recently where the crank snout was flush or proud of pulley, leaving the pulley not snug to the timing gear and splash shield - loose and banging on the keyway.
Click to expand...

I can't tell for sure what how old one aligned since it was in pieces when removed. But I can say this, the depth of that bore of the old piece was 1-7/16" while the depth of the new one is 1-1/2". If the new one was 1-7/16 the shaft would be flush. And FWIW the first picture and second were taken within seconds of each other. Nothing had changed. Simply shot from a different angle.
 
goodcar said:
Suggest you order an older original from Bert's or buy a repair kit and rebuild an original. Been told by a reliable source that some of the newer ones are Chinese junk. Too much work to replace these and not worth experimenting with something that questionable.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that the ultimate solution would be to get another U joint from a different manufacturer. Just for laughts tho, I don't think there's a repair kit out there for this one! :):)
 

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I believe all new U joints sold by dealers are poor quality imports. Used originals are still not scarce and all except 1928 riveted style are rebuildable. Kits are available from your favorite dealer if a used original needs to be rebuilt, but many originals are still OK without rebuilding.
 
The U joint 29 Cabriolet references just above is the riveted 1928 u joint that should be avoided. All other U joints from 1929 thru 1948 are rebuildable and dealers carry the kits if needed, and often no kit is needed. The eBay ad clearly states it is riveted type which I cautioned about in my earlier post.. The fact the same unit on the Model A is used on the V8 passenger cars through 1948 indicates just how rugged the 1929-48 units are.
 
Original riveted U-joints in this condition are rare indeed. I found one years ago and it has held up very well. I imagine they were more expensive to make than the rebuildable 29-48 units which is why they were replaced.
 
I recently replaced mine with a good-but-used riveted type. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't all Model As come from the factory with this type? I thought the spider-and-bearing type originated in later models...but will happily work in a Model A.

Ken
 
The March 10, 1931 Service Letter shows the Spicer design u-joint is now being
used in production.

Bob
 
Are you looking for a truck U-joint or passenger car??

Look at the service bulletins, I think the changes and repair they are discussing are all related to AA U-joints not passenger cars. I will look later today, I am sure that I have several good usable original U joints. When I find them I will place an ad on the Swap Meet page.
 
frank55a said:
Are you looking for a truck U-joint or passenger car??

Look at the service bulletins, I think the changes and repair they are discussing are all related to AA U-joints not passenger cars. I will look later today, I am sure that I have several good usable original U joints. When I find them I will place an ad on the Swap Meet page.
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I have purchased a used rivet style joint from e-bay and a used C clip style from Brattons. Plan is to use the better of the two. I should be OK. Either way, I thank all fellow Ford-Barners for all the advice and offers.
 
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