u joint lube issues

dave11

Member
What is the best practise for lubing the u joint? The one I installed, I soaked in 600 wt oil before putting in place, but there is no provisions for putting grease into the joint itself, other than pumping the u joint housing (ball) completely full of grease. Even then the shaft is spinning at times up to 2500 rpm,...you would think any grease would be thrown to the outside, away from the joint?

Dave
 
If the transmission bearings are original style then some oil will migrate into the clam shell and mix with the grease.

I just mix up some goop [ technical term] [ grease and oil] and pack the shell whenever working on the joint.
 
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Fill that cavity! Get yourself a couple of tubes of John Deere CORNHEAD grease at a JD dealer. FILL that cavity FULL! It is a formulated, friggen'-magic, "low temp" type lube made for cavities with rotating parts. DO NOT use a HIGH temp grease like in the tube in the picture. Works great in leaky steering boxes, too. DD

196595


196596
 
Fill that cavity! Get yourself a couple of tubes of John Deere CORNHEAD grease at a JD dealer. FILL that cavity FULL! It is a formulated, friggen'-magic, "low temp" type lube made for cavities with rotating parts. DO NOT use a HIGH temp grease like in the tube in the picture. Works great in leaky steering boxes, too. DD

196595


196596

It works for me.
I've never had to replace parts I keep greased with this Mystik JT6 High Temp.:)
 
Any one know if there is a comparable grease is Mobil lubricants for example? The nearest JD dealer is 2 hrs away.

Dave
 
I am going to use Mobil 1 synthetic as it has the same NLGI rating as the JD product.
Partley because I have some on hand.
 
I understand the concept of filling the universal completely with the corn head grease.

Question, how do you know when the the universal cavity has been completely filled? I have heard that it is a full cartridge +.

Thanks
 
Awhile ago I ran into some Mobil One 240 weight at a Grainger retail outlet. I bought the quart and haven't used it yet. It's synthetic thick honey. My intention was steering boxes.
For the Model A u-joint cavity isn't there some drain holes on the sides or somewhere?
Gary
 
For the universal joint, Ford specified to use “universal joint” grease which was 600w oil thicken up with sodium tallow soap. Ford also stated that the universal grease was not as thick as wheel bearing grease.

The specification I found for Universal Grease in the November 1932 Ford Service Bulletin has a ASTM Worked Penetration of 310-330 which equates to NGLI 1 “tomato paste” grease.

Regular wheel bearing grease is NGLI 2 "peanut butter".

A lot of people use the John Deere "Corn head Grease" for the universal joint which is an NLGI grade is 0. This may leak out more than the thicker NLGI

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number

Ford specified to use 8 oz of grease in AA truck joints. Maybe soneone knows if the u-joint cavities are bigger on trucks?
 
To Tom - Isn't the speedometer gear casing located on the torque tube? That is a large volume to fill up? Does that take more that one tube of great to fill the entire volume?
 
Just a heads up for you guys that bought their A used (like me). Mine was an older restoration that.....appeared to be done somewhat professionly. When I was servicing, oil and lube I would give the grease fitting on the u joint housing a couple of pumps.
When it came time to take things apart, I found the u joint had been running without any lube.....and it did not like it.
Long story, but if you haven't had the joint removed make sure you pump the housing full of grease.
 
To Tom - Isn't the speedometer gear casing located on the torque tube? That is a large volume to fill up? Does that take more that one tube of great to fill the entire volume?

I only did that on the first time to make sure the U joint was full. After that I gave the U joint a few pumps of grease with each lube job on the car. I'm also running a stock ****** with oil shields that allow some ****** oil into the joint.
 
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