U-Joint lock rings Is there a supplier for them?

1928 Sport Coupe

1928 Sport Coupe

Member
I am looking for 2 sets (8 pieces) of the lock rings, or snap rings, or circlips for the Model A u-joint. I have heard all three names used for the clips. I have not found any of the suppliers that sell the clips separately. Snyders sells the rebuild kit under part number A-7084. Does anyone know where I could get 8 to 12 of the clips, Incase they would fly out and get lost during installation.
I have 2 sets of NORS rebuild kits but both are missing the clips. The boxes and paper wrappings show there age. I have the engine and trans out for rebuilding and thought I should rebuild the u-joint while it was out and easy to get to. It does not have a huge amount of play but there is some. I hate to take it apart and find I may not be able to reuse the clips.
I have attached a photo of the Snyders A-7084 repair kit to show the clips.
Thanks
 

Attachments

  • A-7084.jpg
    A-7084.jpg
    33.3 KB · Views: 20
I made some from a wire coat hangar. They have been in my Victoria for a few thousand miles, and I have run the u-joint to 60+ MPH without any issues.
 
The round type clips should allow for easy pressing for both disassembly and reassembly. I don't know if the modern replacements are round spring wire made or flat cross section types since I avoid some of the reproductions. I'd try pressing one apart and see how it goes. They can be fabricated as mentioned in post #3 but they should have a bit of spring tension to them to allow them to expand and contract during and after pressing operations.

Spicer certainly doesn't make them any more and the types they do have the boxy type cross section.
 
The clips are close to spring steel, more hard than coat hangers.
Firs I would compadre the clearance of the already installed original and compare to the new ones — no need to possibly have problems without having improvements
If I had to come up with clips I would look at a spring assortment and pick a spring made out of the same diameter wire and same outside diameter and cut new ones out of pieces of the spring.
I have some later kits that have more clearance than the original I had planned to replace.
It’s also possible to cut away some of the original bushing and pry out the original clips.
 
I'd suggest that you call Steve Becker at Bert's Model A in Denver. He's been able to provide me with some oddball things like this in the past (he found me some OEM piston pin retainer clips, for example).
 
1. If I have a u joint with "round wire" clips, is it safe to install "flat sided" clips with the round grooves?

2. If I have a u joint with "flat sided wire" clips, is it safe to install "round" clips with the flat grooves?
 
The question that I would ask is how well does a sharp edged ring move out of a sharp edged groove. Round cross section will compress as it is forced up against a sharp edge. The square or rectangular ring won't. It will try to shear. It requires a way to remove the snap ring as part of the disassembly process. The late 1931 through 1948 type u-joint is a lot different than the OEM early riveted type but it was the standard replacement so many model As had them. The later open drive type u-joints that use the simlar snap ring retainer were accessable for removal.
 
If you follow the sugested remove procedure They are reusable. Don't ask how I know this. After many tries I read the book and. found it very easy using their procedure.
 
1928 Sport Coupe said:
I am looking for 2 sets (8 pieces) of the lock rings, or snap rings, or circlips for the Model A u-joint. I have heard all three names used for the clips. I have not found any of the suppliers that sell the clips separately. Snyders sells the rebuild kit under part number A-7084. Does anyone know where I could get 8 to 12 of the clips, Incase they would fly out and get lost during installation.
I have 2 sets of NORS rebuild kits but both are missing the clips. The boxes and paper wrappings show there age. I have the engine and trans out for rebuilding and thought I should rebuild the u-joint while it was out and easy to get to. It does not have a huge amount of play but there is some. I hate to take it apart and find I may not be able to reuse the clips.
I have attached a photo of the Snyders A-7084 repair kit to show the clips.
Thanks
Click to expand...

You might aswell just get the kit from Snyders and change everything out
 
Model A Canuck said:
You might aswell just get the kit from Snyders and change everything out
Click to expand...

I keep hearing the new repro repair kits are not worth using. The parts I have are NORS from probably the 40's or 50's. The kits are just missing the clips. I plan on replacing everything if I can find or make some clips. Not much left of the boxes or paper they were wrapped in, I suppose that is how the clips got lost.
 
To look at the kits, they appear to be something close to.the parts on the late model A and other closed drive Fords through 1948. I don't know what is wrong with them but it may be clearance issues. The fatter Lincoln u-joints with needle bearings are available but have clearance and longevity issues depending on the source. The late model A through 48 types can be difficult to dig the snap ring out. Pressing them back in is easier but still a challenge. The new parts certainly have to fit well.
 
Bob C said:
It's in the May 1931 Service Bulletins.
Click to expand...

The procedure in the the May 1931 Service Bulletin allows for removal of the lock rings by relieving the spring tension with a hammer and chisel. This is actually destructive to the integrity of the lock ring. Note the procedure also instructs one to install new lock rings.

I've rebuilt a number of Ford(Spicer type) U-joints and have yet to find a way to remove the lock rings that isn't destructive of their original function. It is also surprising that a fastener that was used in Ford U-joints well into 1948 isn't available by itself.
 
I have a u-joint kit from Snyder's in my stash that i just took a look at. I don't see anything wrong with it. Can someone explain the issue with them?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top