Two tooth steering box spider removal

Rip

Rip

Member
Having tough time removing the retaining clip on light switch spider. Have lite switch rod lever secured to steering wheel so spring can be compressed.

Ultimately am trying to see if have a non original oil retaining tube used to eliminate oil leakage. Mine leaks a lot, driving or not. Someplace instructions said to fill to top of box and replace plug.

Any tips on that retaining clip removal would be appreciated.thx.
 
Just take your time and "worry" it off. Push up to compress spring and flick if off. Then try to find it. Easier to take off than put back. Have someone help you push the horn switch down. That little keeper is very small. Don't lose it.
 
The parts vendors sell a simple tool to help push up on the spider after the top of the light horn rod is secured at the top. There is a spring on top of the spider that you need to compress to get the horseshoe shaped clip off.
 
I use a small pair of vise grips, bit onto one side of the spider and push up. I use the same thing to install the spider. I also have some of the tools that venders sell, but the vise grips work the best
 
Dave in MD said:
The parts vendors sell a simple tool to help push up on the spider after the top of the light horn rod is secured at the top. There is a spring on top of the spider that you need to compress to get the horseshoe shaped clip off.
Click to expand...

After you do the above, us a pair of hemostats to grab the clip. They will lock on the clip so you don't lose it.
 
I would have thought pushing against the spring with Vice Grips on one blade might bend the blade. Apparently it doesn't, so this sounds like a good way to do it. A bit of grease also helps to hold the C clip in place during this tricky operation. A pencil magnet would also hold the C clip.

If you are using repro parts, be sure to fit them first, or you might be trying to fit something that doesn't quite fit without bending or filing.
 
As with most repro stuff, the new clips don't fit right. You gotta fix 'em, especially if you're also using a new light rod.
 
-Vise grips and hemostat worked, spider retainer removed. Thx.
-As stated I thought leak was from old 2 tooth steering box without tube on housing end plate. Not the case. It had tube.
-Noticed that there is no gasket between steering box and housing end plate with the tube as shown in catalogs. Appears to be cause of leak! Is there a sealer that could be used to avoid waiting for new gasket to ship from snyders or macs?
 
I keep 4 rolls of thin and thick paper and cork gasket material for things like this.

Silicone gasket maker should also work. Just make sure the surface is clean and dry.
 
Use ""rite stuff"" by permatex ..will seal it without a gasket ,,,,or if you use a gasket I would still use a little plus put some on the bolt threads... It's a trouble leak spot.
 
I LOVE THIS SITE!!!


As discussed in other threads I have a steering box leak and while reading about the box and how to take it apart found out about the "tool" used and figured I would have to get one of them to be sure I can get it apart but more importantly BACK TOGETHER. What better place to find info that here at The Ford Barn!!!


Funny but as RIP found in 2016 I too see no gasket on the endplate and it generated almost the same question... THANKS FOR THE (knowledge) ANSWERS!!


Rip (2016) "-Noticed that there is no gasket between steering box and housing end plate with the tube as shown in catalogs. Appears to be cause of leak! Is there a sealer that could be used to avoid waiting for new gasket to ship from snyders or macs?"
 
Our repair gang refers to that spider clip as the Jesus clip, because you always end up taking the Lord's name in vain while trying to remove or install it.
 
Remember to always buy two clips and two spider gears, that way you always have one on hand.
Always fit the spider gear, new or old to the horn rod before trying to install, sometimes they only like to go on one way, don't be afraid to file the spider gear to fit the horn rod so it slides on nice and easy.
 
If you are filling the box with lube, it might be to much and cause a leak. There are differing amounts of lube required that have been floated around. Full is not in any of them that I recall.
Dave
 
I know the problem has been solved anyway this is how I hold the spider up . I put two small cable ties one each side around the spider side and the bail "ears" pull tight and the spider stays up . I make sure the "C" clip is well located hold the spider and clip the ties . I have never had a clip that fitted first time had to dress with a fine file every time .

John in lovely Spring Weather but cant get out in Suffolk County England .
 
Well that was interesting... The vise grips worked like magic on the spider and just so ya know the "Jesus clip" migrated as warned but fortunately not too far due to the excessive amount of 600WT/Grease and Goop that coated everything in sight; including a half full light switch body.



A new "tube endplate" with gasket should arrive soon and we will get it all back together hopefully as fast as it came apart... THANKS for all the awesome knowledge PICs and a write up to come!!
 
You dont need to have anyone hold down the horn while you push up.

I use a small yard stick and place it over the horn button and under the steering wheel, that holds the button down while you push up from the column.
 
Got the new steering box end plate (with tube) installed and reassembling the switch spider. Question is with the horn lever on the steering wheel pointing down to 6 o'clock position where should the spider "legs" orient to? vertical 6-12 o'clock or horizontal 3-9 o'clock?


I got the spider back on the horn shaft so I hope I got it on the right way the first time.



I will try and get the switch housing installed and hope the lever is still pointing at 6 o'clock...
 
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