two carb setup

Too cold up there Ralph! A little heat helps the fuel lines bend. I put the little guys in the oven for a few last time. Torch is overkill and would make thin spots, i think, but I get easier, better looking bends by hand with the lines hot than with any tool I've tried. I do like the spring style for big curves, but always get a kink from the plier style with the wheel on small corners. Could be a placebo effect, haha, but theres a nice feel to it.
 
A very clever body man showed me a neat trick to loosen frozen/stuck nuts, bend tubing, etc.,
Use an electric heat gun. The heat can be controlled without distorting the metal. Works great on pot metal/cast trim pieces that have been bent. Heating the piece with a heat gun will allow the piece to be straightened without it breaking.
 
Ralph Moore said:
I've been trying to make a fuel line doing the same, but I'm having a heck of a time bending them. Seems every time I get to a 90, it kinks on me.
I have a nice bender, and it worked great on my brake lines, but the larger 5/16" lines are just not working. Any secrets?
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I have a couple benders, however I used the cheap one. Notice the lines I used are the softer metal ones that they sell in shorter lengths. It has some coating to prevent rust and bends easier. I cannot remember the name as this was a few years ago. However I took a close-up for you. When you go into Napa you will recognize by the different color. If you cannot find it I will stop in our location here and get the name for you.
Good luck, Mark
 

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It's not a good idea to remove your choke plate, even if you don't use the choke. Air flow studies have shown that these carbs flow less with the choke plates removed.

As far as running two carbs with progressive linkage, it depends on your manifold. Most manifolds have equalization tubes between the two plenums, meaning that both carbs feed all eight cylinders, not each feeding four cylinders. I've set up engines with both direct and progressive linkages successfully.
 
tubman said:
I have never run a regular dual manifold (just "super-duals" and 4BBL's), but it seems obvious to me that using the rear carb as the primary would seriously starve the front cylinders. I may be wrong, but if I am, I'd like someone to explain why.
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As I posted above, most multicarb manifolds have equalization tubes inside that join everything together.

As far as starvation from distance away-- just look at any six cylinder manifold and how far the carb is from the end cylinders compared to the middle cylinders. Do they starve?
 
Mike51Merc said:
As I posted above, most multicarb manifolds have equalization tubes inside that join everything together.

As far as starvation from distance away-- just look at any six cylinder manifold and how far the carb is from the end cylinders compared to the middle cylinders. Do they starve?
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All well and good, but how many six cylinder intakes have you seen with the carburetor on the end? Everything is a compromise, but we are better of with the best configuration we can find.
 
tubman said:
All well and good, but how many six cylinder intakes have you seen with the carburetor on the end? Everything is a compromise, but we are better of with the best configuration we can find.
Click to expand...

No, the carb's in the middle and it has to feed cylinders at the ends!
 
Thanks Cooch, your probably right about the cold, I turned the heat off in my shop a couple weeks ago( no longer freezing), but it's about 45 degrees in there now, unless I build a fire.
 
just did the sync and seems to run ok. the linkage sucks its from speedway and has cotter keys I the ends and feels tight. any one have a different source of a better one its a solid linkage....
 
The linkage isn't the greatest. I've had to open up the slots to make them work or they bind on the carb levers.
 
My setup is solid linkage with single active choke and one locked choke plate front - carbs are 48's. starts great when cold and runs very nice throughout the spectrum of demands. Fuel line is old school as noted in the picture.
 

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look at the air cleaner set up. here's the linkage I have...not so good... the air cleaners seem to work well.. like to find better linkage. question on the driver side of the carbs there's levers for throdell rods can you hook up linkage there also?

thanks
 

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"It's not a good idea to remove your choke plate, even if you don't use the choke. Air flow studies have shown that these carbs flow less with the choke plates removed"



I worked 12 years on carburetor development and flow box work. I would love to witness that test or do it my self in order to believe it. Right now I don't.
The same air flow...., maybe. Less, I don't believe.

Sal
 
sal.
just taking some advice from some of the guys out there... kind of a backyard why of doing it. but there seems to be no difference with or with out the cleaners on??
 
4ford,

I've never done any flow box work with and without air cleaners. I would imagine most of the smaller air cleaners (dual and tri power type) are pretty restrictive. Especially the $10 ones you see. Would stay away from those all together. Use the taller ones with more filter area. It's hard to say about larger more quality type air cleaners. I would say on a flathead there would be very little or no restriction with a large air cleaner, especially the K&N type filters.

Sal
 
its two filters put together and one is K&N wanted to see if it was working first b 4 getting 4 of them
 
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