'Twas deteriorated gasket material...

R

Ross6860

Senior Member
The stalling, hard re-start, and rough running I experienced last weekend appears to have been caused by a deteriorated sediment bowl gasket.

Looks like it was made from some type or reinforced cork. It fell apart and the pieces floated to the top and blocked off the outlet screen. The sediment bowl was clear, so there was no indication of any problem.

The car would not even start today. Took it apart. Cleaned the screen, reassembled and it started as soon as the fuel system filled up.

Might help someone else out that runs into the same problem.

I had to make a gasket from a piece of leather, but it looks like it's holding until I can get a proper one.

Also found I have a stripped fuel pump stand/mount (or whatever the technical term is for the piece the fuel pump mounts to). Had to make a slightly longer bolt to catch the last couple remaining threads. More repair work for the winter.
 
Ross6860 said:
The stalling, hard re-start, and rough running I experienced last weekend appears to have been caused by a deteriorated sediment bowl gasket.

Looks like it was made from some type or reinforced cork. It fell apart and the pieces floated to the top and blocked off the outlet screen. The sediment bowl was clear, so there was no indication of any problem.

The car would not even start today. Took it apart. Cleaned the screen, reassembled and it started as soon as the fuel system filled up.

Might help someone else out that runs into the same problem.

I had to make a gasket from a piece of leather, but it looks like it's holding until I can get a proper one.

Also found I have a stripped fuel pump stand/mount (or whatever the technical term is for the piece the fuel pump mounts to). Had to make a slightly longer bolt to catch the last couple remaining threads. More repair work for the winter.
Click to expand...
I don't know ,ive been using cork or reinforced cork for yrs now in pumps I rebuild,never had any trouble with them. ???? ken ct OMO.
 
I had the same problem with the gasket supplied with a rebuilt pump I bought in the spring. Gasket looked like cork bits molded in some black stuff. 6 months later noted black pieces in the glass bowl. Took the bowl off and the gasket was mush. Blame it on the gas but there must be real cork gaskets out there.
John
 
ford38v8 said:
Ken, Corn gas does do a number on cork floats in the original fuel senders, so...
Click to expand...
Well in the same vein your talking about 50-70 yr old floats I guess it will fall apart after that amount of time if original. ken ct. Ive had no direct complaints about what I use.Maybe there are some issues but haven't had any to me personally.?? ken ct.
 
Ross,
Some treated cork bowl gaskets hold up with no sweat and some do not.
I test all my pumps after a rebuild and to my chagrin discovered within a week some
pumps on a recheck had nothing, others were fine. Turned out the bowl/dome gaskets
were crumbing on the bad actors. What ever you do not use the kit supplied rubber
bowl/dome gaskets. These suckers swell and turn into licorice overnight.
I'm making these gaskets now out of military grade viton...the same material
I make fp diaphragms out of....it ain't cheap but it handles straight alky.
Charlie ny
 
Charlie ny said:
Ross,
Some treated cork bowl gaskets hold up with no sweat and some do not.
I test all my pumps after a rebuild and to my chagrin discovered within a week some
pumps on a recheck had nothing, others were fine. Turned out the bowl/dome gaskets
were crumbing on the bad actors. What ever you do not use the kit supplied rubber
bowl/dome gaskets. These suckers swell and turn into licorice overnight.
I'm making these gaskets now out of military grade viton...the same material
I make fp diaphragms out of....it ain't cheap but it handles straight alky.
Charlie ny
Click to expand...

Maybe I'll just leave the leather in there and see how it holds up;) It's almost 1/4" thick. Cut from an old holster...

Are you die-cutting the diaphragms and gaskets, and are you selling them?

We use Viton and silicone seals in most of our industrial engines. Expensive but well worth the price compared to loosing a couple hundred gallons of coolant.
 
Ross,
I can punch the holes in the diaphragms but big diameters require
more force than my press produces. I sell diaphragms and diaphragm assemblies
as well as the dome/bowl gasket. Email me at cas5845@yahoo.com for prices
and more 'exciting' details. The bowl/dome gasket is $4 which usually sends guys
in the other direction and I can't blame them....as you mentioned Ross viton ain't
cheap.
Charlie ny
 
What Charlie offers is the right solution for that crap gas we have to use. $4.00 for gasket is real cheap if your pail doesn't start at the wrong time, and you need a $250. tow to get back to the garage. What's worse, if the sucker leaks, and you have a fire, your pride and joy goes poof, and insurance is not gonna replace that jewel. It's always price vs cost. The price may seem a bit high, but the cost can kill you.
 
I've found if a couple bucks here and there is too taxing for your budget, you're in the wrong hobby;)

There are things that can be done "on the cheap", but gaskets, really?

I was young once, and couldn't afford much, so it would take me a year or two to build an automotive engine, but it was done "right".

I've hand polished cranks (yes, they were straight), cleaned and re-used pistons, hand lapped valves, etc., but I always tried to use top quality gaskets and fasteners.

I've also had to sell beloved cars and motorcycles because "higher priority items" reared their ugly head. I still miss my grandfathers '69 LTD two-door, and my '85 FXEF.
 
A leather one might work Ross,i would leave it in if I were you an see what happends. You might be on to something there. LOL ken ct.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top