Turn signal problems

Signalstat 900, cowl lights, stop lights turn signals. This is the set up. The turn signals work great if the brakes are not applied. The flasher hesitates and comes back to operation slowly when the brakes are applied with the bulbs never lightning fully. Why would this be? The system is 6 volt positive ground with a generator with electronic cutout and Tom W voltage regulator.


What's going on here?
 
So it seems the turns and brakes work normal, they just don't work well together ?

I'll assume you're using a 535 flasher. Have you tried another/different one? The old ones are the best, the new ones are pretty much junk.
 
Not sure how your car is wired.
You also didn't state if this is a new problem and they were previously working correctly, or if this is a new install you are trying to get working.
Attached are the original Signal Stat wiring diagrams. You will need a Signal Stat 904 or 905 to use the same bulbs for turn and stop.
Hope this helps.
 

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This is not a new problem, there were a lot more important things to address when I got the car, but it is now time to address this issue. I have tried a couple of different flashers (535) with no change.
 
Weak battery? Does the problem go away when the generator is charging? Could also be bad terminal connections between voltage supply and X terminal at the flasher. Best place to connect the fuse is at the generator side of the firewall junction box. Use a B-crimper or solder terminals at the wire ends to prevent corrosion.

What's happening is the opposite brake lamp draws about 3 amps, which will reduce available voltage from the battery alone, but should work ok with your regulated generator in operation. Just keep at fast idle while sitting at stop lights.
 
Thanks Badpuppy for your suggestions. I hadn't thought about the power source and that is where I will start the corrective measures.
 
I use the same setup as you [ except the electronic cutout ]with no issues.

Have had some flasher issues, old NOS unit solved the problems.

A poor connection could well be the problem too.

The Signal-stat 900 is a good unit. The unit itself should be grounded, I use a ground wire.
 
It appears your brake switch might be the culprit. Your explanation of how everything works fine until you engage the brake switch says to me the brake switch has a high resistance connection. This condition is drawing down the voltage thereby preventing the flasher to work properly and dimming the lights. I would install a new brake switch. If you have a properly working voltage regulator, the directionals with the brake switch on should all work at idle. If your brake switch is okay then I would try to adjust the voltage regulator output at idle.
 
Do you have LED brake lights?
They will reduce the current draw a considerable amount and might be the answer to your problem.
 
Do you have LED brake lights?
They will reduce the current draw a considerable amount and might be the answer to your problem.

Great idea but the 535 won't work with them unless you add parallel resistors, which draw more current than the original bulbs. And I haven't found a 6V electronic flasher I'd want to live with.

10 CP (10W) bulbs in the cowl lamps may be enough to drive the 535 flasher, but idk.
 
No, I don't have LED brake lights. Would a combination of LED brake lights and regular cowl bulbs create enough resistance to allow the 535 flasher to work? If it would work, it would be a simple and elegant solution.
 
There is an electronic - solid state - turn signal switch that does exactly what you are looking for that runs on 6V or 12V, LED or incandescent, works both brake and turn signal lights correctly, and is automatic self-cancelling. It's a higher-priced system but well worth the investment because being modern solid state it is literally set-and-forget. All the wiring + the SS module are easily hidden out of sight. I purchased the toggle switch version a few years ago.



@ http://www.turnswitch.com/Turnsignal.htm
 
No, I don't have LED brake lights. Would a combination of LED brake lights and regular cowl bulbs create enough resistance to allow the 535 flasher to work? If it would work, it would be a simple and elegant solution.



Nope. Change the cowls to 10CP [ I can't remember the bulb number but there was a list here recently] and then it'll work. The front turns will be brighter too.
 
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