Tudor Overheating! HELP!!

I fooled around with an old radiator and finally got it to stop over heating after repeated back flushing out of the car with Draino and Evaporust and removing the head to clean the rust out of the water jackets. I used a magnet on the water jackets and retrieved enough rust to fill an 8 oz. cup. But it was running at 190 to 200 degrees. So after all that work, I bit the bullet and bought a new radiator. The highest temp I could manage on a hot muggy day was 135, so I put in a thermostat. Couldn't be happier.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Ok,

With regard to brakes, he has taken the time to completely go through the brakes and used Les' book as guidance. He has installed new cast iron drums and most of the internal parts are new including bonded Kevlar linings on the shoes.

I have seen Kevlar bands sold for Model T's. I have never heard of them used on Model A brake shoes. What am I missing?

I will be sending a set of service brake shoes and a pair of emergency bands out for relining-bonded softer linings in a few weeks. They will be going to Automotive Friction in Damascus, Oregon. I have had good service from them in the past.

Does anyone know of a good shop closer to E-Tenn?

Vic
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Vic,

A fellow FordBarner and member of our local club told me a while back that he'd sent his brake shoes to a brake shop in Birmingham, AL for bonded woven linings and that he was very pleased with their work. There are two brake shops down there and I'm not sure which one it was, but they are Clutch & Brake Specialty Co. at (205) 322-5478 and Brake and Clutch Service at (205) 244-1139. Might be worth a call....


Deron
 
No, I don't need to chime in again about the Quail. Go 'search' the post about this gasket problem. Thanx.

But just one parameter. Just because it's spurting water does not mean it's over heating. Simply leaking.

skip.
 
Paul from Maine said:
I fooled around with an old radiator and finally got it to stop over heating after repeated back flushing out of the car with Draino and Evaporust and removing the head to clean the rust out of the water jackets. I used a magnet on the water jackets and retrieved enough rust to fill an 8 oz. cup. But it was running at 190 to 200 degrees. So after all that work, I bit the bullet and bought a new radiator. The highest temp I could manage on a hot muggy day was 135, so I put in a thermostat. Couldn't be happier.
Click to expand...

It is good to hear that you are derfinately making progress. It sounded like you were getting VERY frustated after doing all that work on your car and still not being able to drive it.

While these old radiators look OK they get to the point where they loose their effeciency. The bond between the tubes and fins starts to go away and they just will not transfer much heat. The new radiator cores are very good and your new radiator will last as long as you have your car.

Start driving your car and enjoying it. This will not be the last problem you will ever have with it but hopefully you can get some enjoyment out of it before you have to get involved in another major repair.

Let us know how your brake repair worked out.

Good luck,

Chris
 
I purchased a roadster from an estate where the car had rarely been driven. Who knows what the previous history was. Anyway, after replacing the radiator, water pump, timing check, polarity, even added an overflow bottle (which the boiling water would just blow the cap off and spew out the hood vents)and other suggested "ways to fix" the overheating issue, I have finally found a solution until I have the engine pulled and rebuilt. I bought and installed a Gano filter in the upper rad hose. About every 400 miles, I remove it and clean it. It is picking up and holding flakes of rust that are sloughing off in the block. Hence, no more clogged radiator and no more overheating! For $35, it is worth trying. Gano has a website and they are located in Carmel Valley, CA. Good luck
 
Just replace the radator. I replace hoses, flushed sistem, got it in timeing, new watter pump. everything finaly broke and got a new radator and havent had a problem sence.
 
Well back posting some more thoughts on the Tudor, I have just left it alone for a few days just to get it out of my mind and think more if I want to sell or continue, thanks for all the encouragement I usually have more patience but this car is driving my CRAZY!! I have messed with the Hit and Miss Engines for 20 years and know how they "tick" but I am so out of my element with this car! Hell I don't even work on my modern cars and trucks, just very minor procedures. Like Brent said I am going to get the timing fixed first to see about the overheating if it is from that or is from a stopped up radiator. So I guess I am going to keep pressing on what the hell it is only paper with ink printed on it. I have to much invested now to stop because I will never get my money back out of it anyway. Well going to get a new complete distributor and the oil pump gear and all related parts and go from there. I think that I am going to get a new radiator in the next couple of weeks anyway but going to see first how it does with the new timing parts. Also have another problem I will touch on that in another thread to keep track with the specific posts. Thanks Robert DeBord
 
Happy said:
I purchased a roadster from an estate where the car had rarely been driven. Who knows what the previous history was. Anyway, after replacing the radiator, water pump, timing check, polarity, even added an overflow bottle (which the boiling water would just blow the cap off and spew out the hood vents)and other suggested "ways to fix" the overheating issue, I have finally found a solution until I have the engine pulled and rebuilt. I bought and installed a Gano filter in the upper rad hose. About every 400 miles, I remove it and clean it. It is picking up and holding flakes of rust that are sloughing off in the block. Hence, no more clogged radiator and no more overheating! For $35, it is worth trying. Gano has a website and they are located in Carmel Valley, CA. Good luck
Click to expand...


Happy,
I've been wondering about some type of filter to keep junk out of the radiator when re-starting an old engine that has been sitting for a long time. The Gano filter looks like what I've been trying to imagine; but I don't fully understand its function. When you shut off the engine, why don't the flakes trapped in the filter simply fall back down into the engine?What style did you chose, and what size fits the Model A?
 
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