Tubular shocks

aermotor

Well-known member
There is another pretty active thread concerning shocks or not. I am convinced shocks are necessary and would like some input on various different vendors tubular shocks. Who's are best with operation and ease of installation? - etc. From what I am seeing it appears that modern shocks conversion is much cheaper than original new or overhauled.

John
 
Do not put the tube gas shocks on your A. I have seen this set up on several A's in person and the ride is terrible. The shocks make the car stiff and I have also seen them make the front end sit up higher than stock ride height. Your best bet is to break down and put rebuilt hydraulic shocks back on the car as original.
 
I have Ken Davis shocks on my pickup and am very satisfied with them. He asks what vehicle they are going to be installed on and supplies the correct shocks for the situation.
 
Am I missing something on these gas shocks? Years ago, when I assume they first came out, I was told that the gas pressure is only to keep the oil from foaming when the shocks are working hard, such as on a washboard road. The gas pressure is only a couple pounds, and when you remove the shock from the box, then remove the plastic tie strap, you can feel the shock extend out, but it only takes light pressure to push it back in.

So this should have no effect on ride height, but depending on the shock it might be a stiff ride. Corvairs weigh 2400 pounds, the same as a Model A, but I've never looked into fitting Corvair shocks to a Model A.
 
Am I missing something on these gas shocks?

Well actually you are,,and I say this with ALL due respect!

We are all missing something! I used to believe just what you said.

I got some replacement shocks for my chevy van a couple of months ago, nothing special, just good replacement shocks. I had to go to Denver to Bert's of all places,,,oh my goodness what fun. I waited till the last minute to throw them on, after a life time of this no problem right,,I wasn't missing a thing.
Wrong! when I took off the safety strap they shot out like a loaded weapon
and my body weight on top would hardly push them back in.
What a pain in the Butt working against all that pressure! floor jack, leverage bars, getting dirty!
I hadn't even planned on getting dirty! Four bolts out, four bolts in, maybe a little rust maybe a little stuck, no problem. The bottom mounting bracket was off (out of alignment)so the bolt was way to far off to go in easily with the "A" frame up or down. I had this "I only have one nerve left and your standing on it" attitude, sometimes the unexpected doesn't sit well.
Now the Van sits up higher in the front end by a very noticeable amount.
Just can't wait till just one side leaks the gas out, it will be a gas.

There are now high pressure shocks that used to be just regular old shocks.

Who keeps changing the rules?
 
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If you search, some have luck with tube shocks on the rear but less have luck with them on the front... I'd go with either rebuilt originals or stipe shocks.
 
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I have had Ken Davis shocks in my '30 Coupe for about six year and about 10,000 miles. Installation was easy with minimal modification to the car. Ken's set does requiring drilling one hole on each side of the axle. I think some of the other setups do not, instead, the others kinda clamp around the axle. It just doesn't seem as positive. I will admit that I was reluctant to drill those holes...but I finally bit the bullet, drilled the holes, and love the result.

Yes, they are stiffer than factory, but personally I like it. I drive the damn thing like a sports car and the stiff suspension allows me to do so. I find the original, softer suspension won't corner as aggressively.

Ken
 
The Ken Davis shocks are not as stiff as some of the other vendors shocks. He did his homework and pick some with the correct valving. The ride is great.
I have installed several sets and every one likes them.
If you go modern go with Ken Davis.
 
Another one that supports Ken Davis shocks! I have them on my car and my brother has them on his!
 
Well actually you are,,and I say this with ALL due respect!

We are all missing something! I used to believe just what you said.

I got some replacement shocks for my chevy van a couple of months ago, nothing special, just good replacement shocks. I had to go to Denver to Bert's of all places,,,oh my goodness what fun. I waited till the last minute to throw them on, after a life time of this no problem right,,I wasn't missing a thing.
Wrong! when I took off the safety strap they shot out like a loaded weapon
and my body weight on top would hardly push them back in.
What a pain in the Butt working against all that pressure! floor jack, leverage bars, getting dirty!
I hadn't even planned on getting dirty! Four bolts out, four bolts in, maybe a little rust maybe a little stuck, no problem. The bottom mounting bracket was off (out of alignment)so the bolt was way to far off to go in easily with the "A" frame up or down. I had this "I only have one nerve left and your standing on it" attitude, sometimes the unexpected doesn't sit well.
Now the Van sits up higher in the front end by a very noticeable amount.
Just can't wait till just one side leaks the gas out, it will be a gas.

There are now high pressure shocks that used to be just regular old shocks.

Who keeps changing the rules?

yea ive experienced the same with my s10's and chevettes shocks. mount it part way THEN cut the straps and watch your hands and hopefully line it up with the correct hole as it extends. I consider shocks BAD if they dont extend on thier own...

One of the s10's shocks didnt want to line up and play ball so i had to use 2 hands and my weight to try to force it back down to line it up - took just about every bit of leverage i had laying on my back to do so...

Ive ridden in a model a with the standard catalog kit tube shocks - felt like i was on an ox cart...
 
I consider shocks BAD if they dont extend on thier own...

I was taught that those are called helper shocks.
When your springs get weak it is easier and cheaper to install helper shocks instead of replacing the springs.
What we called shocks had one purpose: absorbing shocks.
 
I think it all depends on what tube shocks you use. I have them on my A and they were not so stiff that I had trouble moving them in or out. The car rides fine.
 
So Cal Imports advertises oil filled shocks to fit early VW's with eyelets
both ends.
I forgot to add that as an example, KB Gas Adjust shocks are difficult to push in out and are packaged with straps. The "A" vendors tube shocks with eyelet ends were found easy to push in and out for installation puposes.
 
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I was taught that those are called helper shocks.
When your springs get weak it is easier and cheaper to install helper shocks instead of replacing the springs.
What we called shocks had one purpose: absorbing shocks.

That makes sense,, looks like they would list them as such.
I've only seen shocks come out slowly and push back in easily like Tom mentioned.

The last set of shocks I got might remove a digit or two it you got'em in the way.
A set of these on a model a and the tires wouldn't touch the ground!:)
 
reading all this tube shock talk
if I may ask does anyone have a part numbers that would work on a 29 roadster?
front----???
rear ----???
with the eyelet
any help would be greatly appreciated
Terry
 
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