Tube shocks

I had a set on my roadster and they seemed to beat me to death on our great California roads, The pro is they didn't leak from day one and the ones I had required only one hole on each side in the rear cross member. I had a set of originals that a gentleman in CO rebuilt for me, so I put them on and sold the tube set. the originals ride okay but have never had a day on the car that they didn't leak. That has been my experience with all the rebuilt originals I have had, probably 10 sets over the years. May try some new ones if I win the lottery soon. There may also be some less stiff tube shocks out there.
 
Installed tube shocks last fall and am pleased with the ride. However, I suspect that the original shocks were worthless, thus making the comparison questionable! Yes, I would do it again.
 
Like many I fought the shock thing for 10 plus years. Initially I went with tube shocks. To this day I don't know if they were gas or hydraulic. I could never run a match with the part numbers. They came with the "kit". They were Monroe's. One eventually failed and I decided to step up and bought Stipe Machine co. "original" style. I LOVE THEM!. You will hear lots of chatter about tube shocks which I found boring. What I want to see is part numbers for hydraulic tube shocks along with the application. That way you are assured as to what the hell to buy instead of continued guess work and experimenting.
 
Tacoma Bob said:
You will hear lots of chatter about tube shocks which I found boring. What I want to see is part numbers for hydraulic tube shocks along with the application. That way you are assured as to what the hell to buy instead of continued guess work and experimenting.
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duke36 said:
Look for mid 60's VW shocks with after market vendors that are oil filled only, no gas assist.
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I wonder how good of a match VW shacks actually are... VW = ~1600lb, most of weight on rear vs Model A = ~2400lb front end weight biased. Not saying they won't work, just thinking out loud.
 
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My car was missing all the original shocks and linkages when I bought the car. After riding in someone else's car that did have shocks, my wife issued the edict that we will have shocks! After pricing the originals, we decided on tube shocks. It REALLY helped the ride as you would expect. I have not ridden in another car to know whether tube versus originals produce a better ride, but I can tell you that the tube shocks are a vast improvement over nothing at all! PS: Mine are Ken Davis shocks
 
Correct Model A shocks with “new” correct springs, and a completely rebuilt front end.

You will not believe the ride and how easy they really drive.

To many of our favorite cars are shade tree mechanic maintained. Not that we can’t do good work on our cars, but to really appreciate how they really were. You have to spend some money.

Sorry, I got my soap box out again. Enjoy.
 
If youve never had good,not rusty, springs and good original, or stipe shocks , then you'll never know. Too many used to driving without any shocks and just have come to expect the car to " be like that". No experience with the tube shocks here so I can't say...but likely better than nothing.
Brian
 
Ruth said:
I wonder how good of a match VW shacks actually are... VW = ~1600lb, most of weight on rear vs Model A = ~2400lb front end weight biased. Not saying they won't work, just thinking out loud.
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The VW doesn't have rusty cart springs (built in shocks).
 
Ruth said:
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I wonder how good of a match VW shacks actually are... VW = ~1600lb, most of weight on rear vs Model A = ~2400lb front end weight biased. Not saying they won't work, just thinking out loud.
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FYI ...

THe VW shocks that my buddy liked (he found gas charged shocks too stiff) were from a VW type III Fast Back / Squareback which are oil filled.

FB / SB weighs 2000 pounds.

A VW bus weighs 2600 (Stripped down panel model).

A Camper was 3200 lbs.
 
For my pickup, Ken furnished Monroe 31176 for the front, 31069 for the rear.
Don’t know if he furnishes differently for other body styles.
 
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For the rear of my 1931 Vicky, I use Gabriel 81039 shocks. I believe this is the part number I got from Brattons as the shock they uses in their kit. For me they work great.
 
Thanks Guys for all that input. I have modern tube shocks on my 1930 Townsedan. I have friction shocks on my 1931 Tudor. The friction shocks are like the kind used on Speedsters years ago. The Townsedan rides so much better than the Tudor. So I was debating on whether to put original type shocks or modern shocks on the Tudor before Spring arrives. Leaning toward the modern shocks at this time. Thanks again....Nick
 
I am another fan of Ken Davis's shocks. When I got my Coupe all the shock linkage parts were missing. Ken's set was a very affordable solution. There is no question that it is a stiffer ride than the original setup, but for me, as a daily driver, it is almost like having a sports suspension. I like the firmer ride. You should see how she corners.
 
The kit I got had mounts and four shocks that looked all the same to me. I couldn't find a part number so I just felt how hard they seemed to be to pull out and push in. Without any way to measure resistance, they all felt the same to me. Maybe I got them mixed backwards and that may be why the tubes shocks beat us to death on our California roads. Now the next time I will get Ken Davis and specify weaker for the fronts for my roadster. I will leave leaky originals on the coupe and park on cardboard whenever possible.
 
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