Trying to get this started, wiring problems (picture heavy)

I'll clean all the posts real good tomorrow, may end up replacing that starter wire as well, however I might just take the starter out to bench test it. Like I said, I'm just wanting to know if the engine will run and then go from there, harness next. I can't really get a wrench or socket on the crankshaft but I'll try to figure something out. I soaked all the cylinders in penetrating fluid a few months ago.
 
You say that you soaked the cyls in fluid,,,,,if there is still some fluid in the cyls,
then take the spark plugs out before turning it over, as fluid will NOT compress,
and must be able to escape out through the plug holes.




.
 
can always put it in gear and see if pushing will turn the engine over...or at least see if the engine will turn....good luck...Mike
 
From the looks of the motor does it turn over twice.Push, drag ,what ever,see if it turns.Take the plugs out,and put some oil down inside.
 
I'll do that then. The rear drum was frozen so it was very difficult for me to push it. I got the tool to fix the drum, so now I just need to put it in gear and push it to see what it does. I'll take the plugs out like was said to make it easier. Another quick question, where is a good place to jack the front of the truck up? I'd like to jack it up to put it on ramps, making it easier to crawl under.
 
If the ol truck still has a strait front axle then you can jack under the center. If it was converted to independent then jack under the front crossmember.

Kerby
 
The solenoid you have use two small connectors (in the front).
One will provide positive battery voltage when engaged, the reason for this is to give voltage to the ignition coil. The reason for this is normaly the battery voltage goes thru the white resistor on the firewall. Since the ignition coil is designed for 8 Volt when running.

When the other connction gets postive voltage it will engage the solenoid, and get the start motor running.

If you take a short cable and momentary connect from the BIG Battery cable connection to one of the small connectors it will get the starter running, if its OK.

If you take the "wrong" one you will only provide positive volgate to the ignition coil and nothing will happen.

So give it a test.
 
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thunderbirdesq said:
The solenoid will also have an I terminal on it, this supplies 12v to the ignition coil ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS CRANKING for easier starting. Once the engine fires up and you relase the key to the "run" position, there should not be any voltage at that terminal. Your coil will then get a reduced voltage from your IGN terminal on the ignition switch by way of the ballast resistor (also mounted on your firewall there).

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


Actually, there should be the same voltage as on the coil side of the resistor. With the wire off the I terminal there would be none at the terminal itself but would be in the wire end.
 
You would be ahead to rip all that rats nest of wires out and order a stock dash harness and a 6V alt conversion (one wire). Every thing would fit then and after you unconvert that 12V stuff, everything would work like it should. You have a good project to start with that appears definately worth fixing right.
 
jimTN said:
You would be ahead to rip all that rats nest of wires out and order a stock dash harness and a 6V alt conversion (one wire). Every thing would fit then and after you unconvert that 12V stuff, everything would work like it should. You have a good project to start with that appears definately worth fixing right.
Click to expand...
Would I be able to just keep it 12V though or reconvert it?
 
If there is no way you can find out whether it was converted to 12 volt before then you'll have to check all the components yourself. The fuel quantity, engine temperature, and oil pressure guages will need to have voltage drops connected to their power source to make them work. If you are running later manufacture Stewart Warner gauges or the like, you would be checking to see if say the fuel quantity gauge had an after market sender. Oil psi and engine temp could be direct reading gauges. The ampere meter doesn't care what voltage it is. Light bulbs would have to be checked to see if they are 12-volters, etc.

The generator could have been converted to a later 12-volt type but that will be hard for you to find out without more experienced eyes looking at what you have. Same basic thing for the regulator too. This would get you in the ball park as far as a charging system for your battery.

Basic circuits would be lights (both front & back including a brake light switch somewhere and a headlight dimmer switch), a horn (usually has a relay), windshield wiper (unless it still has a vacuum unit that works), Accessories and turn signals could also be added in.

There is a good thread on here about aftermarket wire harnesses and there are several good ones available. If you went back to six volt, you would still have to decide about updating to a voltage regulated generator or alternator set up so an original harness would be good for everything but that (they had a 3-brush adjustable current system with only a cut out). You would have to wire it in seperately but that shouldn't be too complicated if you can get a diagram for your installation and adapt as necessary depending on the Gen/Alt/Volt Reg you settle on. If you still have the ignition switch on the column drop, you could use that and a push button starter switch like original or a twist to start if none of the old stuff is present.

The original wiring harness was real basic and I'm not sure what it had for circuit protection but most of the old Fords just used a basic circuit breaker. Later harneses would at least have fuses of some type for the circuits.

Man it's just up to you, your budget, and what your vision of this thing is. Any other person may do it different but it don't belong to them.


Kerby
 
I just want it to be reliable and safe without breaking the bank. Painless makes a nice harness, but it is expensive, especially since it will be a basic vehicle. Quick question, how do you pull the starter out? I removed what I thought to be two bolts that hold it up, it wiggles a little but won't come out.
 
All the old V8 starters have the two long bolts that not only hold it on but also hold everything together. It should come out if you tilt it a little to clear the ring gear. If it doesn't, there might be something else going on in the bell housing. On some rare occasions I've had to take the plate loose from the bell housing but it should come out of there.

Kerby
 
Angle it a little and pull it out. It's just the two long bolts at the end of the starter that's it.
 
put those long bolts back in the starter, just don't thread them....they hold the starter together.....wiggle the front end up toward the engine and hopefully it will come out....jiggle, etc....good luck....Mike
 
Ok I pulled the starter out, even with it out and connected to the battery it still doesn't move. It is still greased and spins freely, but it isn't a loose spin, feels normal. I'm assuming I'll need a new one.
 
It could have a bad brush or maybe an open circuit to the windings. It could also have a fried armature or comutator. You can get rebuilt ones pretty easy. You might just have a look inside and see if there are any obvius busted wires or a broken brush or brush holder/spring. It could be something simple but if not, you would need access to test equipment like a multi-meter to check the field resistance and a growler to check the armature out. Without those items you'll have to go for the rebuild.

Kerby
 
There's a place nearby that rebuilds starters, I might give them a call just to see what they'd charge. I know they make internals and stuff but if it would be easier just to have it rebuilt I might just go that route.
 
You can buy a complete dash wireing harness from Mac's for 52.50 and the lighting harness for 67.50. Everything fits and works and is clearly shown on multiple wiring charts. Also 6V will start a flathead just fine, 6V batterys are found at Tractor Supply.
 
I took the starter to a guy to see if he could rebuild it. He wants $125 for a rebuild, however the more I look at Mac's starters, the better I feel the price is. Are there any other places that sell these starters, not just the new style ones like Speedway has but the old style, or should I just get that one from Mac's?
They have a few different flavors, a 6V new one with new style drive on it, or a rebuilt one without a drive for a little cheaper, or the 12V equivalents. My gut says to spring for the new 12V one with the new style drive on it. I believe that either way it will be a good piece to have, if I convert it back to 6V it wouldn't affect the starter at all other than turning slower, thus no damage really done, right?
 
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