Trying to find VIN/Serial Number

[mnzink]

Greetings,


It occurred to me at the beginning of the week that I was still waiting on my NC Title for my car after registering it a couple months ago (transferred title from MD). After several grueling attempts at speaking to someone at the tag office, I found that my title is being held since I havn't gotten it inspected. When I registered it in NC, I was not told that I had to get it inspected.


I met the inspectors today. I showed them my registration. They then asked where the VIN number was located. We looked under the hood but couldn't find it. Supposedly, it doesn't matter if I have a valid title I am transferring to NC, they have to see the VIN/Serial number on the car for them to ok the release of my title. I have found several references of where the VIN/Serial number should be located but does anyone have a picture under the hood where it is located so I can see if that still exists in my car? Otherwise, I have to go through another process to get NC to release my title. I appreciate any help in advance.


Michael

 

[1939mars]

In this picture you can see the 3 rivets of the front cross bomber and the brake line with respect to the frame #. My folks have been trying to get an MG inspected in NC for more than a year now and have had nothing but trouble with the DMV - good luck!

 

[Mart]

Is this on your avatar car? A 40?
If the two 1941 pickups I had are anything to go by the numbers were stamped on the left frame rail adjacent to the rivets holding the front cross member in.
In theory though they may be anywhere along that frame rail section, between the crossmember and the firewall.
Mart.

 

[mnzink]

Yes, it is for the car in my avatar. Essentially, if I can't find the number they will assign an NCS number and I will have to get a bond on the car since the VIN wasn't located. However, the inspector also told me that even if I find the number and they can lay eyes on it, they are still going to assign me an NCS number since nobody else will know where to look for the VIN/Serial number. They will put the NCS number in the door frame and the glove box.


My uncle did put an Mustang II IFS in the front. They were thinking that the piece with the VIN/serial number was cutoff but that seems like it is too far forward than what was shown. I will look after I get off from work. I appreciate the pictures.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Yes, it is for the car in my avatar. Essentially, if I can't find the number they will assign an NCS number and I will have to get a bond on the car since the VIN wasn't located. However, the inspector also told me that even if I find the number and they can lay eyes on it, they are still going to assign me an NCS number since nobody else will know where to look for the VIN/Serial number. They will put the NCS number in the door frame and the glove box.

My uncle did put an Mustang II IFS in the front. They were thinking that the piece with the VIN/serial number was cutoff but that seems like it is too far forward than what was shown. I will look after I get off from work. I appreciate the pictures.

Man, the last thing that any old Ford owner needs is an ASSIGNED number. At the very least, it will de-value any Ford, and there is a perceived stigma that goes along with it. I'm afraid that once you let them do this, you'll NEVER be able to go back and correct it!

Now, IF your relative DID cut that piece of the frame off to put-in one of those stupid Mustang II rigs, the car has likely already declined in value over that mistake, and the goofy state-issued number will only make it worse. That ORIGINAL serial number is stamped on that frame in two other locations, although the body must be removed (or at least,lifted at left side) to read them.

Below is another picture of the normal location on most '40 Fords, adjacent to the front crossmember. Some #'s MAY be stamped a LITTLE rearward of that location. I believe if it were me, I would get a serious title service involved before you succumb to accepting the "fake/BS" number. MOST serious old Ford buyers would NEVER consider purchasing a car with a state-issued (non-factory) serial number. Good Luck!! DD

.

 

[mnzink]

Man, the last thing that any old Ford owner needs is an ASSIGNED number. At the very least, it will de-value any Ford, and there is a perceived stigma that goes along with it. I'm afraid that once you let them do this, you'll NEVER be able to go back and correct it!

Now, IF your relative DID cut that piece of the frame off to put-in one of those stupid Mustang II rigs, the car has likely already declined in value over that mistake, and the goofy state-issued number will only make it worse. That ORIGINAL serial number is stamped on that frame in two other locations, although the body must be removed (or at least,lifted at left side) to read them.

Below is another picture of the normal location on most '40 Fords, adjacent to the front crossmember. Some #'s MAY be stamped a LITTLE rearward of that location. I believe if it were me, I would get a serious title service involved before you succumb to accepting the "fake/BS" number. MOST serious old Ford buyers would NEVER consider purchasing a car with a state-issued (non-factory) serial number. Good Luck!! DD

.

Do you mind zooming out some in your pic so I have a better idea of location?

 

[Mart]

Those are the three rivets that hold the stock front crossmember in place, with the stock brake line running past. That's the left frame rail. Front of vehicle to left of pic.

Unfortunately that's probably where your MII crossmember is welded in.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Do you mind zooming out some in your pic so I have a better idea of location?

Since I did not take that picture, I'm going to post another from the internet showing the location. Look at the three RIVETS in the original picture. Also note the brake line.

Now, notice the three bolt heads on the frame rail ON YOUR RIGHT SIDE of second picture. They are in the same location as the three rivet heads in first picture. Those three rivets hold the front crossmember in the chassis rail. The SECOND image below shows the stock front crossmember without the engine in place, with two of the rivet heads BARELY visible at extreme right side of picture. DD

.

 

[Zeke3]

I have two 1937 frames and the front serial number location on both of them is between the two rivets that hold the steering box mounting plate to the frame. Another place to look if you don't find it near the front crossmember. The number starts with a five pointed star and ends with a five pointed star.

 

[tubman]

Did you guys see the part where he said his uncle installed a Mustang II front suspension? The fact that the O/P can't seem to find the three rivets on the front cross member lead me to believe the his uncle perhaps "threw the baby out with the bathwater".

 

[mnzink]

I appreciate all the information. I am going to look closer later today. Knowing my uncle, he wouldn't have done this if the numbers were visible/obvious. He wasn't trying to hot rod the car as much as he was trying to get it into a drivable condition. It is possible that his restoration inadvertently covered over this number. I am going to see what I can do if that is the case.

 

[marko39]

number can also be found on transmission above the inspection plate. that is if trans. has not been changed and then will have different number.

 

[TJ]

If the Mustang II was installed it may or may not cover the original frame #, Look on the top of the left frame rail at the front and rear of the Mustang II crossmember as you may find the number. If the number can't be found you are stuck with the tag in the door jamb. If it still has the flathead and original drive train there was no need to put in a Mustang II. There were other solutions to make it drivable.