true 600w oil

J

jim t utah

Junior Member
trying to find a supplier of true 600w oil also known as steam cylinder oil for rear axle and trans. i don't want any of the new formulated lower viscosity oils 2270 . thanx
 
I found some at a large oil depot in a 5gal bucket. Used/ing it in my A and changed out my 38'pu. On the 38pu I changed the transmission gear oil back to 90-140 as the other was so thick that downshifting was a more difficult then compared to the lighter weight oil.

If you want a bunch of good info from people here on 600w...

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9550
 
I used to bottle 600W and I got my 55 gallon barrels of Steam Cylinder oil from Mobil. I am not sure that they still put it up. 40 years ago when I was selling it I had to pay more for the plastic quart bottle than the oil that went in it.
 
Mobilgear 636
BP Energol GR-XP 680
Castrol Alpha LS680
Shell Omala 680
Texaco Meropa 680
 
Many treat this 600W lube like its a sacred fluid.
WHERE is it noted as to be used in the Model A ******, rear end, or steering in the Instruction Book or other period pieces?
I have found it, I think in one place in a Service Bulletin.
I use the mixture the vendors sell, and it seems to work.
Is there a frequency of bearing problems among those using different lubes?
Thanks for your help.
 
Bruce Adams said:
Many treat this 600W lube like its a sacred fluid.
WHERE is it noted as to be used in the Model A ******, rear end, or steering in the Instruction Book or other period pieces?
I have found it, I think in one place in a Service Bulletin.
I use the mixture the vendors sell, and it seems to work.
Is there a frequency of bearing problems among those using different lubes?
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

My belief is people insist on it because these cars are one of the most important things in their life and they want the best for it.

I can understand and relate to this feeling.

However, I am also betting 90W gear oil is just as good for it mechanically if not better. Keeping it in the transmission or differential is another story.
 
The heavier oils such as 600 W / steam-cylinder oil work better than SAE 140 or 90 for clash-free shifts - the gears stop spinning more quickly.
 
It may well be fine for the transmission. I think actual Ford spec in most charts and owner's manuals was something like "High quality gear oil"...need to go home and look! At any rate, I don't think 600W was mentioned.
On the rear end, I believe it obsolete, what Ford specified because no better was available...this was about the time that new lubes were being designed for spiral gears which were rapidly replacing spur gears in automobiles...as with the Model A rear axle.
Ford used the SAME rings and pinions in most 1932 Fords as in the Model A, and they updated the lube spec that year, I think because the good stuff had just become available. This was an early form of the modern sort of lube with additives for spiral gears...it was a different number than modern, something like 220 weight, but part of the same family. It was retroactively replaced by the modernish weights of 140 and 90 very shortly after '32.
 
Restoration Supply in Escondido, California has the REAL 600W oil.

600W does work better in the transmissions as it will help with the shifts.

They also have 1200W which works good in steering boxes that tend to leak a little. You have to set it out in the sun for a while or it does not want to pour very well.

Let me know if you can not find them on the internet and I will post contact information.

Chris
 
You can get steam cylinder oil from any industrial lube oil supplier. 600W is a Mobil name brand for 375 viscosity steam cylinder oil. I got both the 460 and 680 viscosity cylinder oils and found the 680 made for smoother shifting in the hot weather here in Texas. One was Texaco and the other Royal Purple oil because that is what the distributor carried. When the weather cooled off the 680 made for hard shifting until the transmission warmed up.
 
jim t utah said:
trying to find a supplier of true 600w oil also known as steam cylinder oil for rear axle and trans. i don't want any of the new formulated lower viscosity oils 2270 . thanx
Click to expand...

Steam Cylinder oil (600w) in made by Mobil oil;

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENINDMOMobil_Cylinder_Oils.aspx

It is NOT the same as Mobilgear 636 which was discontinued on 2007 and is now known as Mobilgear 600 XP 680.

http://www.exxonmobil.com/Lubes/Mobil/Mobilgear600xp/productivity.html

Where specifically to buy it, Granger has it for one;

Mobil 600W

As does other places.

As for which is better, I'll let others battle it out.
 
RonC said:
Mobilgear 636
BP Energol GR-XP 680
Castrol Alpha LS680
Shell Omala 680
Texaco Meropa 680
Click to expand...

These are what I had best luck with but 600W is 375 in viscosity which is significantly less thick than 680. This viscosity is cSt at 40C, centi-Stokes at 104F.

Some have said here that back in the day 600W was thicker than it is today. I don't know but I do know the 680 viscosity oil is what worked best for me as far as shifting. Double clutching wasn't even necessary. All I had to do was keep my clutch to the floor an extra second or so.
 
How do you know 600W was 375? I have been using texaco 650T 1000. Never had a problem but it's too thick for winter in the north east. My next pail will be 680
 
I have used Shell Omala 680 gear oil for a long time. I have used it in all the 40 or so Model 'A's I have restored throughout the years and in my own vehicles with great success. Just diff and gearbox. No steering boxes. It is an EP oil, not too thin and not too thick. About the consistency of 'runny honey' on a hot day. Sorry to get so technical.
 
RonC said:
How do you know 600W was 375? I have been using texaco 650T 1000. Never had a problem but it's too thick for winter in the north east. My next pail will be 680
Click to expand...

I want to support MrTexas' contention that "600W" is a brand name and does NOT signify that the viscosity is 600 by any measurement protocol.

A different but equally widespread confusion relates to the "W" in motor oils, such as 10W-40, etc. Here, the "W" stands for "WINTER", not "weight".

Steve
 
Special Coupe Frank said:
The heavier oils such as 600 W / steam-cylinder oil work better than SAE 140 or 90 for clash-free shifts - the gears stop spinning more quickly.
Click to expand...
Why do some folks want to waste engine power by churning around some concoction of GOOPY, FOAMING, overly heavy trans/diff oils just so they can shift quicker??? What's the hurry, just pause a little longer and it will shift easily. 90 Wt or 140Wt gear oil does very well in a Model A.
By the way, double clutching does NOTHING to gain shifting speed on upshifts. Double clutching is only for down shifting, as when the clutch is out, you learn to rev the engine so that you are in synch with the next lower gear. Trust me, I KNOW what I am talking about!
 
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EP oils are for spiral cut gears where you want the oil to move away quickly. "A" trannys have straight gears that need a heavy oil to cushion the impact on this type of gear face.
 
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