Trouble installing an Accelerator linkage rod spring

Pinchy The Great

Junior Member
I found that the spring that pushes my gas pedal back up was broken, so I got a replacement and tried to install it by slipping over the rod, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how to hook it up. First image below shows before and after pics of the old spring before I removed it (on left), and the right half shows the new spring slipped over the rod.

2nd image shows a picture I found in these forums showing what I assume is a propertly installed spring, but with the firewall in place I can't seem to figure out how to put it on. It also looks like I need to bend the lower part of it to wrap around the rod

I assume I need to remove something to get at it properly. Any advise here? I've looked through several books to try and figure this out, but didn't get far.

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After posting this and looking closer at the 2nd picture, I realize I probably need to lift the floor boards up to get at those two nuts, remove the entire linkage, install, then put it back. Right?

This is a late 1931 Model A Roadster, by the way.
 
Removing the assembly will make spring installation easy, and before installation the shaft can be moved,and the "bearing" areas cleaned and lubed so you have the smoothest operation possible.
 
Yeah, it's almost impossible to put the spring on while the linkage is installed. With the linkage off, it's a snap. Just spin the arm around in the opposite direction (counter clockwise I think) and it will just catch the hook on the spring. Then keep the shaft from spinning back by working the hand throttle lever part of the linkage back into place.
 
It's all trial and error with fitting and adjusting the linkage set-up. The end lever that attaches to the carburetor control rod may need to be slightly and gently bent as well as the small actuator arm that attaches to the hand throttle. Make sure nothing gets hung up along the firewall. Mine had the foot pedal rubbing on the floor board as well as the spring hitting against the firewall and thus did not have enough clearance. The ONLY way to be certain you have full function is to test, unbolt, retest, bolt, unbolt retest etc etc. It's a long process, only bend these parts in very tiny increments, it shows when you move the hand lever.
 
Warning: Be very careful if you are bending the end lever that moves the rod to the carb. These have usually been bent many times in the past and are very apt to snap off while bending. Chance are 50/50 that you may break it. For sure never bend one while away from home on a tour.
 
you have got some great advise
will is correct remove the linkage and spin the arm around, it just takes a second,then keeping tension on the arm reinstall it and bolt it down
heres what yours looks like and how it looks when finished
 

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Thanks everybody for the great advise.. I'll be giving this a try this upcoming weekend, and now I'll have a clue as to what I'm doing. I couldn't find any of this in the books.
 
This may be a little off topic but what is the best way to rebuild the 1/4 ball on the throttle control assembly? I cannot find a where the suppliers sale replacement ball, like a smaller version of spring perch ball. I could build in up with weld and then go at it with a file and try to get it round. Any suggestions?
 
This may be a little off topic but what is the best way to rebuild the 1/4 ball on the throttle control assembly? I cannot find a where the suppliers sale replacement ball, like a smaller version of spring perch ball. I could build in up with weld and then go at it with a file and try to get it round. Any suggestions?

I haven't seen one worn bad enough to worry about, but if I needed to build up the ball, I think a drop of brazing would do the trick. Done carefully it will form a ball and won't need to be filed.
 
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