Tricks to remove cutout cover?

[walkerlakeprinter]

I tried the instructions in Jim Shild's Restorer's Model A Shop Manual, but holding the unit as he described, just bent the ears that attach to the generator. I removed the screws, filed as described on his page 144. I don't see how clamping the cutout in the vise as shown will work. Maybe I need to hold it tighter in the vise so it doesn't move, but how would the cover move down if it is tight in the vise? I just don't get it. Any ideas?



I put a new diode cutout on my rebuilt generator, but I wanted to check out the relay unit I took off, thinking it may be an original and better built than the repo ones. I put 6 volts between the post that attaches to the generator and the case, but I heard no click.

 

[Drive Shaft Dave]

The idea is to break the spot welds there are usually two.

 

[Kurt in NJ]

I have taken dremel and and removed some metal from the inside of the base to weaken the spot weld to make it easier to break

 

[walkerlakeprinter]

I don't see evidence of a spot weld. Any idea by looking at this? Would a squirt of PB Blaster help?

 

[Roger V]

There's a pair of welds as Dave and Kurt said. Not typical spot welds but on the bottom edge of the cover and base. You can see where the lamination is welded. Usually minor grinding separates the weld. If you're going for show, do as Kurt does so the outer (cover) doesn't show a sign of grinding. PB Blaster won't remove welds but rust if you're lucky!

P.S. Hard to see in your pic(first one) but they appear to be just to the right hand side of the "feet".

 

[walkerlakeprinter]

Thanks. I think I will grind a little and give it a shot of PB. My old coupe will never be for show....after decades of time in Southeast Alaska and now in the high desert. The damp wood and rust was holding her together until I moved her here.

 

[Kurt in NJ]

I can see them in the picture, about 1 and 5 figuring as hands of clock, you can see the splatter on the seam between the base and cover