Trickle Charger/Batt. maintainer

sphanna

sphanna

Well-known member
I just saw an ad for a DieHard charger/maintainer. Says it charges 12 volts at 2 amps and 6 volts at 4 amps. Is it safe to leave this on indefinitely or is that charge rate too much for either the 6 or 12 volt battery? Thought I might get it 'cause I have one "A" with 12 V and another with 6 V
 
I went and read the description on this charger/maintainer before replying.

It sounds good. It sounds like the maximum charge rate is 2 amps or 4 amps, not the continuous charge rate. It sounds like it automatically switches to "float mode" once the battery is charged, to just maintain it and not overcharge it. That is what you want. That is a difficult feature to find for 6 volts.

I use a battery maintainer similar to this that has a maximum charge rate of 1 amp. Once it decides the battery is charged, it automatically switches to "desulfatation mode". (An LED on the unit starts to flash.) It is supposed to prolong the life of the battery by preventing sulfatation of the plates. I've had good luck with it. My batteries last a long time. I leave it hooked up 24/7 when I am not driving the car.
 
Wow, Jim, Thanks for the great reply and so quickly. You have convinced me. I am going to go for it. I'll be driving my "A" to Wichita Sat. and Sunday with 3 other cars from Des Moines area.
 
I have a charger that will handle 6v or 12v and have used it with no problems. I don't leave mine hooked up 24/7 because we have power fluctuations and some outages. The problem is that my charger defaults to 12v after a power outage and that would "cook" a 6v battery.

Bottom line- test your charger to see if it will remain on 6v setting or if it will automatically assume you're charging a 12v battery.
 
I always leave my battery on a concrete floor and hooked up to a 6v charger. This I have set on a timer that turns on the charger for all of 10 minutes a day.

No noticeable drop in electrolyte level.

I threw the concrete floor part in just to see what everyone would say.

Joe K
 
Good thing that sphanna had his questioned answered 'cause I think this thread will be hijacked! :p

Concrete Floor/Battery=Urban Legend.

I heard :eek: it comes from the days when Battery's had Rubber Cases. Mostly from cracks in the rubber allowing Electrolyte to seep out. I have also heard that if the battery is on the Concrete Floor, it could be more prone to sweat if the Humidity is just right. The moisture on the battery can create a path to ground....but I never did believe that one either...
 
QGolden - you're sharp

I mentioned the electrolyte level since this is the proof of the pudding regarding battery charge. As the battery becomes fully charged, ions go to splitting water molecules and you make hydrogen (one pole) and oxygen (other pole - don't ask me which is which.)

As long as you don't have a drop in water level, the battery losses (and there will be losses of charge just sitting there) are matched by the 10 minute periodic charging.

I do have a 12V Harbor freight "battery maintainer" which I bought for small money and use to keep a spare 12V battery "ready" - this I keep plugged in all the time. But this charges in the micro-amp range I imagine. Plus they give you specific instructions on how to connect to the battery JUST so you don't inadvertently fry the integrated monitoring circuit (so maybe that proof that it has one?)

Hard to know exactly on anything sourced pacific rim.

Joe K
 
Concrete floors tend to stay at ground temperatures 45-52 degrees in most areas. We all know what heat and cold does to batteries.

As to not hi-jack the thread. A 1 amp trickle charge for about an hour a week I've found to work well for me.
 
I never leave chargers on anything sitting.I saw a pretty good fire started by a Deltrans float charger.It failed,didn't float,overcharged and the tractor went up in smoke.Things are fine as long as they work as they are supposed to,but when they fail you never know until something happens.I will use a trickle/float combo charger overnight to bring up a low battery,but won't use it constantly.I don't know what's going on where folks need to have a charger on all the time.I parked my roadster in a shed last November,last week I went over,put the fuse back in it,started it up and have been driving it since.That car has a battery dated 2003,and I run a generator with an EVR.I also run halogen bulbs. My 30 pickup runs the same combination,shut off in the fall and started a few weeks ago.No charging.I did have to charge up my 54 Studebaker,but only because I ran it down churning it over to pump fuel up to the carb after sitting all winter.6 volt generator system on that too.
 
Ditto what Keith said. A small charger like 2 to 6 amps put on the battery for an hour a month should be all that's needed. I won't leave chargers connected when I'm not in the room. I don't even like to leave cords plugged in, as mice can chew them and create a short.
 
sphanna said:
I just saw an ad for a DieHard charger/maintainer. Says it charges 12 volts at 2 amps and 6 volts at 4 amps. Is it safe to leave this on indefinitely or is that charge rate too much for either the 6 or 12 volt battery? Thought I might get it 'cause I have one "A" with 12 V and another with 6 V
Click to expand...


I bought the die-hard charger you describe from Sears a few years ago. I think it was about $25. What I like about it is that is has a slider switch for 6 or 12 volts. It has a regulator circuit that senses when the battery is fully charged and shuts off. I don't think I would leave it on 24\7. However, it comes in handy when a battery needs charging.


About the concrete floor business, I remember as a kid old time gas stations had a room attached around back that had wooden racks batteries sat on when being charged or stored. Old fellows with the wisdom of the ages would tell you never set a battery on a concrete floor.

Tom Endy
 
Not trying to complain; however, the last 4 tenders/chargers I bought this year were from Wal-Mart -- Battery Tender & Schumacher -- all 4 lasted just a couple of months.

My oldest son bought 2 for his boat -- both of his went bad -- good thing about buying from Wal-Mart is we received our money back with no questions asked.

If bought on line, company like Battery Tender wants one to package it & to pay mailing back to factory, plus a $15.00 charge.

Have another new Model XM1-5 by Schumacher -- never worked out of the box & will return it -- naturally, Made in China.
 
Fortunate enough - in California - to be able to drive Model A frequently. Tractor is a different story so I keep the battery - with caps loosened - connected to a trickle charger connected to an Intermatic Time-All heavy-duty (15 amp) grounded timer (Model TN311). Cost about $12. Set it for about 15 minutes per day (as close together as you can get the pins). Have used this set up for years; keeps battery charged and only have to add DI water once in a blue moon to top off electrolyte level. Cheap, effective and reliable.

Mice are not a problem; fortunate enough to have an owl living in palm tree in yard. Based on amount of hooting, owl has one or more friends in the "neighborhood" (we live out in the county). Owl(s) get hungry, owl gets mice. Shortly thereafter, neatly encased mouse "residual" appears under palm tree. Used to dissect these in high school biology.

Photos available if interested...
 
Jim/TX said:
Why would I want photos of owl poop?
Click to expand...

Well actually it is not poop. They are technically called "Owl Pellets" Owls eat mice and vermin whole. Then after the soft parts are digested they regurgitate the bones, teeth and fur.. it comes out in a small oval "Pellet".

Now do you want a photo? :D
 
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