Transmission Woes

M

Mercman53

Junior Member
Hello Gents,
Ive got a 1931 Ford Model A Coupe, all original with positive ground, and heres the trouble. I was trying to start it by pushing it because my 6 volt battery was low. At first things went ok but after a second attempt at push starting it the transmission did not turn the engine. The gearshifter feels like the transmission is shifting meaning that you can feel it sliding into 1st 2nd etc but when the car is pushed in gear, it pushes as if its in neutral engine not engaging. Could this be a clutch problem or adjustment? I also have another question, is it possible to jump start a 6 volt positive ground car with a out of car 12 volt battery? If so how do I do this without damaging my baby. Thank you for all your help.

Jesse Ramirez
Salinas Ca.
 
Jesse, It is more likely an axle key. If it were the clutch, the pedal would have an odd feel to it, adjustment problem is very doubtful. You can jump start your 6v positive ground with a 12v volt battery, just be sure to go positive-to-positive. As soon as it starts, disconnect the jumper cables. You will get some sparking when you attach the last cable, just be aware. After starting it will be easier to diagnose the other problem.
 
Hi Jesse, If you have a B/W overdrive it may be in free wheeling. Pull the T handle to lock it out.
 
Thanks gents, I'll take a look at the axle key and its s stock transmission and I have no t handle. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Jesse
 
The best way to jump cable a model A is connect the negative cable from the jumper battery to the post on the starter switch. connect the positive cable to a head nut. It may take a little jiggleing to make a good connection.

as far as the transmission, it could be one of three things causing the trouble. The rivets could have broke on the clutch disc. The main drive on the transmission may have broken or it could be a stripped axle key. I've had all of these problems at one time or another over the years.
 
Last edited:
Great New. It WAS the Axle key on the Drivers side. Wow...I learn something new everyday...Well ok not everyday...but every 5 years or so it about the same in man years. THANK YOU all very much for the great information.

Jesse
 
Purdy Swoft said:
as far as the transmission, it could be one of three things causing the trouble. The rivets could have broke on the clutch disc. The main drive on the transmission may have broken or it could be a stripped axle key. I've had all of these problems at one time or another over the years.
Click to expand...

I am new to the model A scene and I am also experiencing problems that seem to be similar (as mentioned earlier) on my stock 1930 2 door sedan.

A couple times when out driving (very close to home), I noticed a "feel" like the transmission was "missing a tooth" with a "skipping tooth" sound and then it would drive without an issue. The other day when moving the vehicle into my "work bay" of the garage to investigate closer, I lost forward and reverse. I could feel gears engaging but no movement.

Before I begin disassembly, would rivets broken on the clutch disc or a stripped axle key give you a "skipping a tooth" feeling? Or would the main drive on the transmission be broken be the biggest suspicion?

(I am curious to reduce the amount of the vehicle that is disassembled.)

Any help would be appreciated.

~Joe Ferrero
 
put the transmission in nuetural and remove shifter tower and check to see if the pin in the shifter fingers is broken. my 2 cents good luck.
 
I agree with Tom. Check the axle keys first.

When the rivets that hold the center hub on the clutch disc broke, I noticed when I tried to pull out of the driveway, The model A acted like it was in neutral and wouldn't move either way. Same symptoms when the main drive broke. This type failure is very rare and both times my first thought was the axle keys. I had a transmission with one tooth broke off second gear on the cluster gear. The only symptom of the broken tooth was that it would jump out of second gear if I let off the gas.
 
I agree, check the easy things first. I'd jerk the right rear drum first and have a look. I've seen drums installed with the retainer nut barely tightened, sometimes its surprising how long the key will go before shearing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top