transmission service prep

delco1946

delco1946

Senior Member
Ever since having my fordomatic transmission rebuilt it just doesn't work they way it used to/should. I'm not taking it back to the shop that did the work and i couldn't care less about the warranty (long story - please don't go into those weeds as its not an option :D).

The last time I took it to my regular mechanic he adjusted the 2/3 gear servo per the book and it shifted great for less than 1,000 miles then starts to slip again. When he adjusts it to spec again (tight then back of 1.5 turns etc) it works great but eventually starts to degrade in shift quality after several hundred miles. Shifts great in 1st/reverse so this is specific to the 2/3 servo.

Rather than have him repeat this every 1,000 miles (the book says it should be adjusted every 15K), what else can i ask him to check? There is supposed to be a lock nut - I wonder if its somehow not functioning and allowing the normal nut to vibrate out of spec on the threads??

Anyone have a picture from their own servicing of what the 2 nuts locked down on each other should look like that i could provide so we can at least have an idea if something looks "off".

Thank you!!!
 
What type ATF does it have in it? Do you know if the two clutch packs were changed and if so what type of clutch linings went back in? Did is get new band linings or replacements of either drum?

Shifting is controlled by the throttle valve so pressures should be checked to verify they are at least close to specs. It just depends on whether shifts are sloppy or harsh with jolting lock up. Adjusting the throttle valve may make the difference if done properly and with care. A person has to make note of where they start from before adjusting the TV control rod. There could also be a problem with one of the clutch pack hydraulic circuit seals leaking. The bands generally hang on pretty good if properly adjusted but slippage in the front clutch pack is a different story. The front clutch is for all forward gears. The rear clutch is for reverse and in unison with high gear. The two bands can have leaky servos or the band friction material may have a problem. The two drums may also have a problem if there is any slippage. They can get scored or crack so a person has to look them over for serviceability and replace what ever isn't up to specs. The cast iron cases can crack as well.

The originals Borg Warner designs had a combination of steel and bronze clutch plates. These may have been replaced with modern composition linings at overhaul. Some of the new type packs don't have the same dimensional thickness of stack up as the original parts so it takes adjustments to make them fit and work properly. A person has to know these old units pretty well to be ready for problems like this.

Band adjustment is similar to a valve tappet adjustment. A slotted threaded shaft with a jam nut is all they have. The front band calls out for a gauge block to tighten against to torque spec then back it off & jam it. The rear band is tighten to torque spec then backed off & jam it. Ford used tools that break away at proper torque but a torque wrench can also be used as long as a person knows the torque to tighten them to. They should not come loose. Even tappet adjusters rarely come loose. A pall nut may work if a person can find the correct sizes to lock the jam nuts.
 
Last edited:
its the wrong fluid (Type F) which if anything, should lessen the slipping feeling I would assume. I'll be getting that corrected. As i recall they reused most of the original parts including the bronze plates, as it was in good condition.
 
Deleted a follow up I wrote as I think I was getting in the wrong weeds myself.

Rotowrench - you mention a lot of good things to check on. At this point I cant really answer some of them. But whatever was replaced and however it was done, its all a constant. The only change has been when my mechanic removed the pan, re-adjusts the servo band screw to spec, then buttons it up. Afterwards i notice a huge improvement.....it just simply doesn't last.

Of the list of items you mention, is there a way to narrow it down to the ones that get "reset" with a band adjustment? Some on your list sound like when they go "bad", they stay "bad". For example, if I had a bad front clutch, re-adjusting the servo band wouldn't make the clutch work well for a while, would it??

I apologize for my lax verbiage - if it helps my mechanic followed the procedure listed on the ****** shop manual page 20 under front band adjustment. I even located the exact tools as in the pics to use!
 
Last edited:
I'd do a preasure test before anything else. That will confirm if it's out of spec or not. Get a manual unless you already have.

There is nothing wrong with using type F. Type F will work with the old metal on metal plates. If it shifts too hard the the TV rod will have to be adjusted to soften the shift. If it's too soft it will need to be adjusted to firm the shift up. If pressure is close with the TV then it's something else. You can adjust a band but it may be a leak in the servo circuit or some other problem that is not allowing proper pressure for function. You shouldn't have to keep messing with that unless it has the wrong part or something.

The front clutch has it's own piston so it works only in unison with one band and also with the rear clutch. There is no adjustment other than having the correct stack up dimension. If the stack is short it can slip. If the piston seal leaks it can slip.

I've heard folks have had problems getting the correct o-rings. Some of the old ones have a square cross section but some kits will provide the type with round cross section. It's this kind of stuff transmission rebuiders have to deal with.
 
Last edited:
I could have my mechanic do a pressure test to see what happens. We’d have no way frankly of ascertaining the rest of your recommendations ( or so I suspect) as he doesn’t work on transmissions and obviously neither do I, ( so neither would notice things that look abnormal) and I know of no fordomatic “experts” in the area.

This is depressing. It’s not even enjoyable to drive the damn thing anymore.
 
... if it helps my mechanic followed the procedure listed on the ****** shop manual page 20 under front band adjustment. I even located the exact tools as in the pics to use ...
Click to expand...

Was the manual a FORD WSM? If the TV linkage was not set up properly after rebuild/install, it will eventually burn itself up.

Was the 1st shop familiar with a FORD-O-MATIC?
 
The transmissions changed after the advent of the vacuum modulator in 61. That is the only major difference in how the old ones work compared to the late ones other than the dual range change. The Ford AOD is a much later transmission that also used a TV valve to control it. These were cable operated instead of throttle linkage mouse trap bell crank contraption type set ups like they Ford used back then, Same theory though.

Any "capable" transmission tech can repair an old Ford-O as long as they understand the theory and have a good factory manual to go by. My manual is for the early small case units from 1951 thru 1953 but there were improvements done as time went by. Now days, the best guys to talk to are the T-bird guys for the 55/56/57 models since they are more popular. There are ways to upgrade the earlier ones for improvements but that can be limited depending on application and year model.

Is this transmission in the avatar car or a different one? There are even some differences between 1955 and 1956 units due to cooling system changes from air cooled to external cooler type units. The Cruise-O-Matics came out in 1958 which made them dual range automatics but there are still some parts that cross over to earlier units.
 
Kultulz - I know of no one in the state of Oregon who is familiar with Fordomatics. I dont know what WSM is, but my manual is for my car.

I assume my regular mechanic would have simply checked/tightened the front band and not touched the TV rod.

If anyone knows of a fordomatic specialists in the pacific northwest, please let me know. Or perhaps whoever the closest is, and maybe i could just ship my car.
 
delco, contact Gene (Flat-O Products). He is located in Salem, OR. Although he has a website, he doesn't respond to email. Give him a call. He makes a Y-block C4 transmission adapter kit, but I'm sure he can help with your Fordomatic.
 
delco1946 said:
Kultulz - I know of no one in the state of Oregon who is familiar with Fordomatics. I dont know what WSM is, but my manual is for my car.

I assume my regular mechanic would have simply checked/tightened the front band and not touched the TV rod.
Click to expand...

Well here is the problem(s). Over the years there were so many models and calibrations that an exchange program would be unrealistic (IMO). They would have to have your take-out to be able to do it correctly.

And then the shop would have to know how to adjust/correct all the linkages. If you go to a C4 or AOD, the adapter kit is $$$ and it changes the character of the vehicle (again IMO).

Some hard parts are getting difficult to come by.

HERE is what you need to explain to your mechanic how to set one up properly. It is available print or CD -

492778
 

Attachments

  • TRANS - Shop Manual - 1955-57.JPG
    TRANS - Shop Manual - 1955-57.JPG
    50.4 KB · Views: 87
I have the manual on the left. I dropped it off and the tools with my guy to go thru to help him understand the procedures and test. Fingers crossed he feels comfortable doing the work; not sure what i would do without him!
 
55blacktie - Gene never returned my call/message. What exactly would he be offering anyway? Doesn't look like he does any transmission work? Are you saying he would tweak an otherwise rebuilt ****** to function correctly? Thx
 
Sorry, I can't speak for Gene. However, if he can't help, hopefully he can recommend someone who can. If you're near Salem, try stopping by his shop.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top