Transmission rebuild

Bubsyouruncle

Senior Member
Many, many years ago, I took the transmission out of my '32 V8 and replaced something that had failed. I don't remember what, now.

Taking a transmission out of a '32 is a BIG DEAL. For those of us who have done it. Please tell me I don't have to do it again.

Now, the trans pops out of second under load. Never did it before.

Did I put the 2nd gear synchronizer sleeve in reverse?

How do I tell?
 
The early synchro sleeves are directional. There is a very small lip.....on the front side. However I doubt that this is your issue. If it was shifting fine before but popping out now, you have other issues affecting the the problem.
 
I've never owned an early Ford V8, with a 3 speed top load transmission, that did not pop out of second gear during deceleration. My Avatar 35 fordor has popped out of second since I purchased it in '07. I've driven this car over 30k miles since '07, and If I ever take the transmission out, I'll fix the problem.
 
Generally a transmission that jumps out of second gear under load is due for a rebuild. The two large main bearings may be worn, the internal roller bearings in the cluster may be worn, or the case at the ends of the cluster may show signs of excessive wear, allowing the cluster to move laterally. Before you pull the transmission out, remove the shift tower and see if the forks and associated parts are loose, preventing full mesh of the gears. In my stock car racing days, we had to hook the shift lever to the dash to keep it in second.
 
I thought as above, that the popping out was because my 32 box needed a rebuild. So while I was changing out the engine I bit the bullet and rebuilt it. Still popped out. I have since pulled the tower and disassembled. Found the detent ball ends in the shift rail were worn out of round. Welded and reshaped the ball ends and shift rail detent slots checked for wear and it now does not pop out under any deceleration revs. Never popped out on acceleration though. Might be worth a shot before you pull the engine to get to the box. I know what a pain it is to pull the engine!
 
A person has to check every part that has been mentioned plus the 2nd gear bushing, for excessive wear. It all adds up over time. The later gear sets and synchronizer assembly from 39 on were better. Mac VP likely has more experience than most of us on these old cog grinders and I'm sure he has had a few that slip out of gear after you replace every part in there. Some hold there place and some just don't do so well.


None of the torque tube drive cars are especially easy to remove the transmission from. It's one of those deals where you make sure everything is good with all that stuff when you have to take it apart so that you don't have to do it again for a while. Clutch, transmission and u-joint all need careful inspection.
 
I think the large bearing are for general use. If you measure from the snap ring to the front of small inner race they could be all over the lot. If you take a measurement from race to teeth of 2nd. You could see where to need to shim. By pushing the whole shaft forward by adding a washer in front of race that may help. The uj keeps it tight.
I had that problem with whole unit that was ok, the other I replaced jumped out of gear.
 
Back
Top