transmission question

Macs has them listed for $3445.99 and that is dropped shipped from the mfg.

Wow, I priced them a little over 10 years ago and I believe they were selling a ~ &1400.00 -1500.00.
I'm very happy with '46-'48 gears, 29 tooth cluster/15 tooth input gear in transmission, and 3.54:1 gears in the rear. I can cruise all day long @ 65 mph
 
V8: Rather than removing the X Member center piece, why not cut it out with the laser even with the edges of the top and bottom frame flange. This would leave the riveted rails of the removed X member in place providing a little more rigidity. Grind edges smooth.

Like JSeery said, you really need to remove the center section. The rear tail shaft housing is bulbous enough that it gets into the area where the cup for the wishbone ball is located. The good kits employ a lower plate like pictured below that acts to capture the split wishbone ends, as well as support the trans mount. It bolts-in utilizing original rivet holes. A secondary, crescent-shaped plate can also be bolted-in across the top of the transmission, connecting the tops of the X-members if desired. Some kits utilize it....some don't! DD

7022320_L_e3c84f34-e0cf-4cb5-9aa9-d4e31df6b815.webp


The upper crescent-shaped piece I speak of looks similar to the upper bracket in this picture with six mounting holes.

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Don't forget that to correctly put the bungs in the wishbone for the rod ends the front end should be removed ,cut yoke off and weld them in.I did mine under the car on my back- a challenge.
 
Question for guys who've used a Mitchell: Due to the size of it (installed in the torque tube), would he have to modify the floor pans in the area where the OD is added?

My foggy, Saturday morning, non-coffee infused brain seems to remind me that there can be issues in certain years of cars - due to the transmission tunnel in the floor pan not having enough clearance for the OD.

Who knows the scoop on this???
 
I think the need to "modify" the floor pan depends on how much weight is carried in the back seat or if vehicle lowered. I may also be wrong.
Paul in CT
 
I put a Mitchell in my '47 about fifteen years ago. Unloaded it was fine, but if I had a few passengers it would bottom out, so I wound up modifying the floor under the back seat. I think in a '35 you would probably have to cut the floor also.
 
There can be issues in certain years of cars - due to the transmission tunnel in the floor pan not having enough clearance for the OD.

Who knows the scoop on this???

There's no two ways about it....it's a sizeable rig. I've always questioned that much weight, unsupported, hanging right in the middle of that long torque tube assembly. DD

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There's no two ways about it....it's a sizeable rig. I've always questioned that much weight, unsupported, hanging right in the middle of that long torque tube assembly. DD

tddXOvwFF_gHaE2?w=281&h=184&c=7&o=5&dpr=1.25&pid=1.jpg

Thanks! There would surely be issues in cars like a 34 Ford, the floorpans would have to be modified.

Too bad the thing is so dang big, square and ugly (just saying). I bet somebody could take a modern set of parts (like out of a Tremec 5 speed) and create a much better product. BUT - you'd never sell enough of them to be worth the design/production investment.
 
Thanks! There would surely be issues in cars like a 34 Ford, the floorpans would have to be modified.

Too bad the thing is so dang big, square and ugly (just saying). I bet somebody could take a modern set of parts (like out of a Tremec 5 speed) and create a much better product. BUT - you'd never sell enough of them to be worth the design/production investment.

Why not consider a Volvo overdrive unit? It's smaller than the Mitchell and just as strong. I've only seen one in a '39 and it didn't require modification of the floor.
Check out this thread started by Steve Kennedy.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277702&highlight=volvo+overdrive

Ken
 
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Here are pictures of Automotive Stud's installation of the Mitchell 10 years ago in his '47. He said the unit cleared the floor.....until you hit a bump! DD

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26703
 
v8: The quality and pertinence of the photos you post are ALWAYS excellent. Always enjoy seeing them on any topic discussed.
 
i did not realize you had to cut the floor and the frame.

Just a Wild-Assed-Guess (WAG), but you MIGHT be able to get by with severely trimming that center "box" on frame to get that T5 (with "S-10" tail) in there. Below is a picture of the stock trans (Thanks Kube)and it's proximity to the BOX between "X"-rails, while keeping in mind that the T5 with the S-10 rear tail housing is (I believe ) 25-1/2" long....front of case to rear of tail housing. DD

401478
 
i want to be able to cruise at 65-70 with lower engine rpm

If you want to cruise at those speeds then the brakes may have to receive some attention if they have not already been done. I have been involved with the fit up of Mitchell overdrives on an original 36 Ford sedan and a 36 Ford coupe and both cars required the rear of the trans tunnel to be cut and an enlarged section to be welded in there. Mitchell overdrives have two different ways to operate them, a flex cable set up or a rod and lever shifter set up. The cable is easier to fit but the pull knob and extension in the cabin is a bit awkward looking. The lever shifter and rod is a neat set up but takes a bit more engineering to fit it. Nothing is easy. Regards, Kevin.
 
I run a Mitchell in my truck. No issue of course. Used the lever. It looks great on the floor. Took me a day to do it. Would consider one with my 36 coupe. Floors good now, so that might be my only obstacle. A super great unit. Love it
 
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Coop weren't you working on a f150 torque tube trans? I could be wrong.

Nope...We created this short T5 using a Jeep CJ main shaft and 4X4 tail shaft housing to couple-up with a torque tube....ALL stock Borg-Warner transmission parts, with a couple of home-made aluminum adapter rings and a specialty, made-up spline adapter. Seen here in Heard's '35 pick-up. The COMPLETE T5 itself is only 15-1/4" long. DD

292541
 
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