Have a Ford Model T with a planetary transmission and cannot get it into neutral. Have set the 3 clutch adjustments with the proper tool. The large spring and yoke in the transmission does operate. I’m hoping it’s something very simple that I’m doing wrong. Would appreciate any help.
Transmission problem into neutral
- Thread starter Tim ford
- Start date
redmodelt
Well-known member
With the cover off, what happens when you pull the parking brake handle back? Are the fingers loose, can you see the ends of the pins sticking out? Have you adjusted for free neutral? If not, do a search of "mtfca free neutral".
Don't know how much experience you have had with the T, so, you do understand that to be in neutral the low pedal is held about 1/2 down or parking brake handle pull to straight up or all the way back. If you don't have neutral, you will not have low or reverse and problems using the brake. The clutch is in neutral for all 3 plus while is sitting running.
Is this a new problem? The tabs in the clutch drum could be badly worn and the disk are not releasing.
It is hard to say what is going on, we don't have eyes on it.
Don't know how much experience you have had with the T, so, you do understand that to be in neutral the low pedal is held about 1/2 down or parking brake handle pull to straight up or all the way back. If you don't have neutral, you will not have low or reverse and problems using the brake. The clutch is in neutral for all 3 plus while is sitting running.
Is this a new problem? The tabs in the clutch drum could be badly worn and the disk are not releasing.
It is hard to say what is going on, we don't have eyes on it.
39portlander
Well-known member
Hey John, as the other fellas have stated it is really tough to troubleshoot your particular with out seeing things.
The MTFCA of Long Island in Valley Stream is probably your best start, John Cunnano is the contact for the chapter.
Good luck and let us know how you make out with neutral, hopefully it is an easy fix.
The MTFCA of Long Island in Valley Stream is probably your best start, John Cunnano is the contact for the chapter.
Good luck and let us know how you make out with neutral, hopefully it is an easy fix.
A bones
Well-known member
One thing worth mentioning is that the T trans does not disengage. A 'sliding gear' trans separates the gears for neutral. The T model trans releases the pressure on the multi disc clutch pack. This allows for slippage when coming to rest. However there will always be some creep, or drag.
The adjustments to the park brake handle are this. Disconnect the clevis, adjust the rod to be a sixteenth of an inch short. Tighten lock nut and replace the clevis pin, secured with cotter pin.
Then, setting the handle to vertical, tighten the lever screw down 'til the clutch is disengaged.
Another thing to consider is the oil being used, If the oil being used is thick it may increase the stickiness of the discs. There are three finger adjustments if lighter oil does not improve free neutral.
Should they have loaded it with thicker oil to mask loose babbit that is another chapter.
When I got my sedan it had a slight knock at speed. Equipped with an outside oiler line I thought to check the inside oil passage. It was clogged with band material. My solution was to buy a long enough thin enough thread stock. Cut it with a bolt cutter to give a sharp end to it. Then with the front cam gear cover off, ( and radiator ) and the thread stock mounted in my drill motor I spun it into the oil passage, pushing and pushing and pushing, until it broke through the crud and reached the mag housing. After all that I had good oil flow to the front. Nice 30 wt. oil. AND, and an easy cranking minimal drag creep.
The adjustments to the park brake handle are this. Disconnect the clevis, adjust the rod to be a sixteenth of an inch short. Tighten lock nut and replace the clevis pin, secured with cotter pin.
Then, setting the handle to vertical, tighten the lever screw down 'til the clutch is disengaged.
Another thing to consider is the oil being used, If the oil being used is thick it may increase the stickiness of the discs. There are three finger adjustments if lighter oil does not improve free neutral.
Should they have loaded it with thicker oil to mask loose babbit that is another chapter.
When I got my sedan it had a slight knock at speed. Equipped with an outside oiler line I thought to check the inside oil passage. It was clogged with band material. My solution was to buy a long enough thin enough thread stock. Cut it with a bolt cutter to give a sharp end to it. Then with the front cam gear cover off, ( and radiator ) and the thread stock mounted in my drill motor I spun it into the oil passage, pushing and pushing and pushing, until it broke through the crud and reached the mag housing. After all that I had good oil flow to the front. Nice 30 wt. oil. AND, and an easy cranking minimal drag creep.
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A bones
Well-known member
Memory tells me of hearing years ago that a good substitute for the steel Ford discs are the clutches for a TH 450. Cant recall how many, or the arrangement, But if you're so inclined the info is around.
Let know if you want I might dig it up. If not my wife has plenty for me to do.
Let know if you want I might dig it up. If not my wife has plenty for me to do.
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Hi Tim,
Is this T new to you or have you had it a while? Was it OK and then this started this. By the three adjustments you mean the finger screws and it sounds like you are not afraid to tear into things. RedModelT is correct check to make sure the release collar is moving and the link is correct. In the US & this time of year I don't think its the dreaded too thick of oil problem. Could be the brake hub is badly worn & the plates are hanging up. Or one or more discs have warped or cracked. I would exhaust all other options before
resorting to the last two. Hope you find a simple & inexpensive solution.
Craig.
Is this T new to you or have you had it a while? Was it OK and then this started this. By the three adjustments you mean the finger screws and it sounds like you are not afraid to tear into things. RedModelT is correct check to make sure the release collar is moving and the link is correct. In the US & this time of year I don't think its the dreaded too thick of oil problem. Could be the brake hub is badly worn & the plates are hanging up. Or one or more discs have warped or cracked. I would exhaust all other options before
resorting to the last two. Hope you find a simple & inexpensive solution.
Craig.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
There is a kit for the installation of the TH400 frictions for the model T. It replaces roughly half of the OEM steels (small disks) with part steels and part TH400 frictions. I haven't tried it but it's supposed to give a very good neutral with less tendency to creep like the old OEM clutch. Lang's has the kit and others likely do as well. They also sell the "Jack Rabbit" clutch which uses a different type of frictions than the TH400 but can use the stock hub. Both give a more positive neutral but I don't know if one is any better than the other.
I'd try the clutch adjustment to see if that will get things working well again. Clutches take a beating and can wear out eventually. Once the plates are damaged, they will have to be replaced. They can also hang up on the drum and the hub spines due to crud and/or a worn clutch spring.
I'd try the clutch adjustment to see if that will get things working well again. Clutches take a beating and can wear out eventually. Once the plates are damaged, they will have to be replaced. They can also hang up on the drum and the hub spines due to crud and/or a worn clutch spring.
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