Transmission Output Shaft Seal Removal

Tikker

Tikker

Member
I'm in the process of servicing the 3 speed std. transmission on my '52 Customline. I've drained and refilled the trans and diff., replacing u-joints and have a new seal for the output shaft. I'm having difficulty finding an appropriate tool for pulling the old seal.
I've got a slide hammer but none of the finger set-ups are slim enough to fit, and I have a steering wheel puller with a set of straight fingers but they are too bulky. I've looked on eBay and have seen some that look like they might work but can't get the dimensional information to feel confident to spend $25 for a tool I'll probably only use once.
Can anyone give me some specifics for the appropriate puller for this seal?
 
Drill a couple of holes in it,and screw in some sheet metal screws. Then you should be able to remove the seal with a prybar or your slide hammer.

Bruce

Works good
Lasts long time
 
cmbrucew said:
Drill a couple of holes in it,and screw in some sheet metal screws. Then you should be able to remove the seal with a prybar or your slide hammer.

Bruce

Works good
Lasts long time
Click to expand...

Good, easy suggestion.
I'd considered drilling into it but was hesitant, but what you describe and attaching a s/m strap, I should be able to pry it out.
I'll follow up when I get it out.
 
I like to use drywall srews, they go in without a whole lot of bother- no drilling. Use a prybar/ clawhammer or slidehammer on the screw.
Karl
 
Karl Wolf said:
I like to use drywall srews, they go in without a whole lot of bother- no drilling. Use a prybar/ clawhammer or slidehammer on the screw.
Karl
Click to expand...

By the way, do I need to be concerned about how deeply I drive the screw in?
I don't want to mar the bushing inside.
 
I've got a seal puller I got at an automotive store. It's a pry bar with 2 hooked ends on it for different seals. Works great. No drilling.
 
I use a small sharp chisel to cut a slice into it and then put a small screwdriver in the slice and pry the seal outwards.
 
4t8v8 said:
I've got a seal puller I got at an automotive store. It's a pry bar with 2 hooked ends on it for different seals. Works great. No drilling.
Click to expand...
So what auto parts store and maybe a part number for the puller?
I've tried the other suggestions and am not having any luck. The original seal is a Ford seal, possibly the original, and is of substantial material.
Wasn't able to chisel a slot for prying, drilled in the sheet rock screw and tried with a claw hammer.......I'm thinking I need a puller that grasps the seal by two sides.
Still searching for an appropriate puller, local auto part stores don't have what I need, found one that only pulls from one side---$76.00.
One suggested I pull the tail shaft.
Still up on jack stands.......
 
Tikker said:
So what auto parts store and maybe a part number for the puller?
I've tried the other suggestions and am not having any luck. The original seal is a Ford seal, possibly the original, and is of substantial material.
Wasn't able to chisel a slot for prying, drilled in the sheet rock screw and tried with a claw hammer.......I'm thinking I need a puller that grasps the seal by two sides.
Still searching for an appropriate puller, local auto part stores don't have what I need, found one that only pulls from one side---$76.00.
One suggested I pull the tail shaft.
Still up on jack stands.......
Click to expand...

Seals are made of stamped steel. How hard can it be? Before I'd spend $76 for a seal puller, I'd get mad and go medieval on it with a chisel.
 
A trick I use is to take a sturdy knife that I consider a tool box item and hammer the sharp edge in between the tail shaft housing flange face and the flange of the seal. Doing this in a few places loosens the seal to the point where one can them put a screwdriver in and pry or tap the seal out.

Simple, easy and best of all, no expenditure for a special tool.
 
The cast iron tail housing has a shoulder about 1/2"in from the outer edge of the opening. You won't hurt the casting. If you have an old slender tip screwdriver, tap it into the space between the seal OD and the housing....I know you don't see a gap...make one! Work your way around the seal's metal shell and collapse it inward. Use a cheap seal pry tool to claw it out. Be sure to get the whole thing. Clean the cavity. Place some grease on the inner lip of the new seal. Take a square piece of 2x4 and cut out a hole in the center just big enough to clear the output shaft. Set the new seal into the cavity as squarely as you can...felt part out if it has the outer felt. Place the wood block against the seal and tap it in with a large hammer. The original type is thicker than the cavity and will protrude about 1/8".
 
Motorhead6 said:
A trick I use is to take a sturdy knife that I consider a tool box item and hammer the sharp edge in between the tail shaft housing flange face and the flange of the seal. Doing this in a few places loosens the seal to the point where one can them put a screwdriver in and pry or tap the seal out. Simple, easy and best of all, no expenditure for a special tool.
Click to expand...
My existing seal doesn't have a flange so although this sounds like a good process, it won't work for me. I apprciate the suggestion.
 
Mac VP said:
The cast iron tail housing has a shoulder about 1/2"in from the outer edge of the opening. You won't hurt the casting. If you have an old slender tip screwdriver, tap it into the space between the seal OD and the housing....I know you don't see a gap...make one! Work your way around the seal's metal shell and collapse it inward. Use a cheap seal pry tool to claw it out. Be sure to get the whole thing. Clean the cavity. Place some grease on the inner lip of the new seal. Take a square piece of 2x4 and cut out a hole in the center just big enough to clear the output shaft. Set the new seal into the cavity as squarely as you can...felt part out if it has the outer felt. Place the wood block against the seal and tap it in with a large hammer. The original type is thicker than the cavity and will protrude about 1/8".
Click to expand...
This sounds like a plan. I got the u joints installed on Tuesday and ordered a small slide hammer that has an attachment that should grab the seal properly, that should be here tomorrow. Along with the process suggested above I should be able to get this thing changed out.
On another note, my yoke doesn't look pristine by any means, not terrible but not great, the driveline guy told me the bushing may be worn also. If I happen to go that far, when pulling the extension tube from the transmission, does it come straight off (after disconnecting the speedo cable) or do I have to rotate 1/4 turn CCW as described in my 1952 Motors Manual? I really don't want to go that deep into the transmission.
 
I use a 1/2 inch cold chisel. You have to get mean with it. Drive it in a few times around the diameter of the seal and tear hell out of it and pretty soon it will give up and fall out. This job is not for sissies. Charles
 
charles in east texas said:
I use a 1/2 inch cold chisel. You have to get mean with it. Drive it in a few times around the diameter of the seal and tear hell out of it and pretty soon it will give up and fall out. This job is not for sissies. Charles
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Part of my problem is I'm laying on the floor working "overhead".
Not the best situation for leverage and usable swing of a hammer, particularly one of sufficient weight.
I'll get it......
 
Tikker said:
Part of my problem is I'm laying on the floor working "overhead".
Not the best situation for leverage and usable swing of a hammer, particularly one of sufficient weight.
I'll get it......
Click to expand...

You don't need a big hammer, just a small one with lots of enthusiasm.
 
Tikker, the seal puller 4t8v8 was talking about is availible at Sears for about $10.00. Handle is about 16" long, the head has two hooks with a different radius on each. Hope this helps. JJ
 
Tikker...The below-pictured, narrow-tipped screwdriver or it's equivalent, along with a reasonably-normal-sized hammer to TAP the screwdriver blade into the juncture between the circumference of the seal and the inside of the cavity that it fits tightly into, is all that is necessary to deform the seal to the point that it's pulverized outer diameter will now easily pry-out of the end of the housing, WITH that screwdriver. Just deform it and dig it out! Re-read Mac VP's post # 12! DD
 

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Here is a picture of a KD 3245 Seal puller, They work quite well and can be had for under $ 15.00 as 4T8V8 mentioned

Regards

Brian
 

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