JSeery
Member Emeritus
You say that like there is always a NAPA near by! I live in a large city in the U.S. and there is not a NAPA anywhere near. They all closed years ago.
Transmission oil
- Thread starter Clem Clement
- Start date
You say that like there is always a NAPA near by! I live in a large city in the U.S. and there is not a NAPA anywhere near. They all closed years ago.
FireEngineMike
Senior Member
If only there were. I was responding to "burly" in Bowling Green, KY. I checked NAPAonline for him and discovered several stores there. I just ordered 2 FA49 condensers from the closest NAPA and will have to drive just 20 miles to pick them up when they arrive in Rochester, NY from Boston next week.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
When I was growing up in southwestern Kansas, we didn't have any NAPA stores. Most were little Mom & Pop auto parts stores. I didn't see a NAPA until I moved to Tulsa, OK to go to aviation school. I worked in a NAPA warehouse for a while when I was there. They aren't everywhere for sure.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
I'm in Wichita and a few years back there were a number of NAPA stores, one near where I live. They were also in Derby (a town very nearby). They have all closed.
ct1932ford
Well-known member
I have recently done much research on early 1939 Ford transmission gear oil and my conclusion is that a GL-1 mineral gear oil must be used. I have found two: NAPA has one that is 90w and the one I chose is Millers GL-1 mineral gear oil 140w. It is available from Performance Racing Oils Inc
227 Sherway Rd
Knoxville, TN 37922-2218 | (865) 200-4264 Ask for Karl Poelti. Great guy and service. Again you need gear oil void of EP additives that attack yellow metals.
Tell him Mark from Connecticut sent you!
227 Sherway Rd
Knoxville, TN 37922-2218 | (865) 200-4264 Ask for Karl Poelti. Great guy and service. Again you need gear oil void of EP additives that attack yellow metals.
Tell him Mark from Connecticut sent you!
corvette8n
Well-known member
So basically this would apply to atleast 32-39 transmissions. I ask because I have my original 34 and 35 transmissions apart cleaning and replacing seals but I'm stuck on exactly what oil I need for them. I live in cold weather so I'm guessing 80w90 would be best but I keep reading about EP oils attacking the bushings. Now from what I've gathered the GL1 oil is safe for the bushings but it's made for only straight cut gears. Any recommendations on exactly what brand of 80w90 is safe for the bushings but is also made for helical cut gears with synchros?
1934FordDeluxe
New member
I posted under my brothers account. I figured I would make my own since I'll be on here more often now. What book is that picture from? I have the 33-34 restoration book and don't have information that is very detailed like what you posted.
David J
Well-known member
Yessir
Ross F-1
Well-known member
LOL, my experience was just the opposite. I was running 85w90 Mobil1 synthetic, 2nd gear was quite tough to grab until it warmed up. I switched to StaLube 140 and it immediately became smoother even when cold. Go figure. In both cases I was running fresh synchros.
Lawrie
Well-known member
One thing you want to check is if you put too much grease in the u/joint area it will end up in the gearbox,and make changing gears harder,drain and refill with 80/90 gear oil then see how it goes,
I always know when the 33 gets hard to shift ,there is grease in the ******.
Lawrie
I always know when the 33 gets hard to shift ,there is grease in the ******.
Lawrie
ct1932ford
Well-known member
"sdpine29" The NAPA GL-1 90w Mineral Oil should do the trick. for what you are looking for! Otherwise check with your local Tractor service garage.
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David J
Well-known member
GL1 is for STRAIGHT CUT GEARS . Not for 32 and newer trannys . This has been beat to DEATH here and bad info just keeps popping up . GL4 is pretty much the accepted choice nowdays . MANY threads on this here .
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Here is the Redline lube I just put into my newly rebuilt 39 box with LZ 25T gears. Everything in the transmission is new (gears included). I made my own shafts - as you can't buy ones with the correct dimensions and created 'sealing caps' to seal the shafts. So far it has not leaked a drop and shifts really nicely. BUT - it is winter and I only have about 10 miles on it . . . so in Spring we will give it more tests.
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=39&pcid=4
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=39&pcid=4
Am I correct in assuming that you used the Red Line 75W140 NS GL-5 rather than the MT-90 75W90 GL-4 simply because you like the higher viscosity than is available in their Gl-4 products? (Red Line states that the NS GL-5 formulation can be used in vintage syncro transmissions.) According to Red Line, the MT-90 GL-4 is specifically intended for brass synchro transmissions.
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
Information in some formulas of GL-5 gear oil state the the acidic qualities of the extra pressure additives are non-reactive to certain materials and I assume they are referring to phosphor bronze used as bushings or brass as used in blocker rings in the old transmissions. The thing I haven't figured out is how do they make an acid that will eat into iron and steel to deposit the oxides for EP but will not eat into bronze/brass. What the label doesn't tell folks is that the EP becomes reactive with temperature so at high temperatures the stuff will react to yellow metals. I guess they figure that the transmission will not get hot enough to cause a problem, Maybe! ??
GL-4 has less additive than GL-5 making it a safer bet over the long run. Viscosity is a hit or miss thing. Higher viscosity will provide better protection to gears at certain temperatures but may start to slow down the function of shifting mechanisms. Lighter viscosity lubes can be more problematic about seepage and some folks don't like a mess on the garage floor.
GL-4 has less additive than GL-5 making it a safer bet over the long run. Viscosity is a hit or miss thing. Higher viscosity will provide better protection to gears at certain temperatures but may start to slow down the function of shifting mechanisms. Lighter viscosity lubes can be more problematic about seepage and some folks don't like a mess on the garage floor.