transmission for my 36????? help?

M

Muddman355

Junior Member
new to the sidevalve/flathead era of cars, i recently bought a 36ford tudor with a 37 21 stud block, it has the original 3 speed non synchro transmission in it, i am looking for any information that may help in to which gearbox i might be able to put in as a straight swap, or changing intrenals of mine, to either make it into a synchro box or 4 speed, i currently have the columbia rear end 3.86 i think,
if i can just do a straight swap over on the transmission it will make things a lot easier to drive and enjoy, and little bit better reliability.

thanks again

clayton
 
You can put the later synchronized gears ('39-'48 pass. car) in your '36 case. You would need to use a '39 style top with wide fork. Someone else will need to answer your four speed question.
 
Muddman355 said:
new to the sidevalve/flathead era of cars, i recently bought a 36ford tudor with a 37 21 stud block, it has the original 3 speed non synchro transmission in it, i am looking for any information that may help in to which gearbox i might be able to put in as a straight swap, or changing intrenals of mine, to either make it into a synchro box or 4 speed, i currently have the columbia rear end 3.86 i think,
if i can just do a straight swap over on the transmission it will make things a lot easier to drive and enjoy, and little bit better reliability.

thanks again

clayton
Click to expand...

The original 3 speed transmission was syncro. Syncro started in 1932 and gradually got better with '39 and up being the best of the early ones. You just had to shift the earlier ones a little slower. Have someone familiar with the cars drive yours, it sounds like you have a bad transmission or other problems (clutch adjustment?). The four speed transmissions were used in trucks in that era and were non syncro.

Charlie Stephens
 
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?? should only be non syncro in 1st, and reverse, and anything you can drop in without modifications will be non syncro in 1, and r ---the later syncros are better ---like the whole gearset of a 40---48 type is a good improvement ---most modifications using "custom" fit parts become less reliable that well restored stock componets
 
We frequently seem to get the cart before the horse. Are we sure what transmission is already in the car?

Mac Van Pelt IS a good place to start. Check:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_transID_3speed-gears.htm

Figure out which gears you have.

Also, you have not included your location in your profile. It's possible you are near somebody who can really help with either advice or parts. Good idea to "locate" yourself and not be anonymous.
 
Mac VanPelt, his website and his book on the early Ford transmissions are all very valuable resources. Mac guided me through my first build of late gears into an early box over the phone. This was before his book was out. I bought the book as soon as it came out. I know there are Barn members and Early Ford V8 Club member down your way who would probably be glad to help you. Joining the EFV8C/A would also be a good move for a newbee to these old Fords. Good luck and welcome to the Ford Barn!

PS...post some pictures of your '36 here on the Barn when you get a chance. We all enjoy pictures of early V8 Fords.
 
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There is no fully synchro or 4 speed that is a drop-in. A T5 or Celica/Supra 5 speed is a good swap, but is far from a drop-in. I would suggest a check-over to make sure your ****** is good, then learn to drive it as it needs to be driven.
 
Rather than to change out the gears in the '36 box and using the '39 tower & fork, a wiser investment would be to change out the whole kit & caboodle for a '37-'39 box. The box is stronger & you have the whole package.
Some points to consider:
Mix and match internals are not always a good match due to thrust bearing differences which cause dropping out of gear on decelleration.
Forget '37-'38 gear sets, use only '39-'48 gear sets.
'39 synchro is just as good as '40-'48, just a bit more difficult to assemble. (ball bearings bounce real good on concrete)
 
"Rather than to change out the gears in the '36 box and using the '39 tower & fork, a wiser investment would be to change out the whole kit & caboodle for a '37-'39 box."

Keep in mind that IF that is the original '36 transmission, the vehicle's ID number is on the transmission, not the engine.

That may not matter to Muddman unless originality is desired or some registration issues might exist.

While cases were improved ... at least designs changed a little ... I would not let any strength concerns outweigh a desire for retaining the original case. The most reputable transmission rebuilders on this forum have not expressed any doubts about the strength of early cases.
 
well originality is not an issue, rego is already done, just been hearing some stories of old rodders telling me thir opinions. just thought id get some more, th enegine is a 37 block, not quite sure if its the original 36 ******, but ill have to look for the id number, where would i find that on the box.?

clayton
 
BTW, the car in question is the 36 tudor that chris from spokane was selling for Len.
if anyone knows the car may be able to shed some more light on the subject.

clayton
 
here's a link to MacVP's website....lots of info there, including serial numbers for the various years....there should be a serial number on the transmission bellhousing, just above the inspection window/door.....if that number matches the one on your title, along with the serial number on the frame, it's an original trans, i think....good luck and feel free to ask questions....Mike

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm
 
muddman, I agree with Hoop, the original case will have the serial number, same as on your frame and your title. If it is the original case, this should be a factor in your decision. At the very least, this original case should be saved for a future owner of the car. Great selling point, goes with the car.

When checking the Van Pelt site, go to this page:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_transID_3speed-case.htm

Look at the location of the number on the aft end of the red case. 78-7006 is the case you want.
 
I have read and heard tell that the 78 cases are actually no stronger than the 48 cases but the 78 cases were made deeper for the 29 tooth cluster gear. I also read or heard that the later PU's, that used the 3 speed top loaders, had deeper and stronger cases. What say you transmission gurus??
 
Doing overdrive is the only to get faster, a big expensive deal with torque tube, swapping to any other toploader flathead trans is easy but for a 21 stud? I don't get why change it.
 
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