Transmission advice

Thanks so much for all the advice! I drove farm trucks with that crash box as a kid - I could really nail the shifts on a good day, but not all days were good days for me.

I think that if I can make a T5 work with the torque tube then I'll go for it but otherwise the truck will remain stock. Dan Bridge made a torque tube adaptor to fit a 4x4 T5 that looks intriguing. I like the idea of smooth shifting and an overdrive gear.. something my wife or kids could comfortably drive too.

I'm not sure what the axle ratio is, yet - that is next to figure out.

The motor spins but one cylinder has a stuck valve.
 
Less hassle and more pleasant to drive with '39 three speed. Shifting less stressful than the crashbox. I not a fan of all the double clutching. As for your highway speeds you really don't want to take it over 55 or 60 without other mods to frame and suspension for safety. Not knowing what your rear gears are hard to talk about a comfortable cruising speed but I had a 4:11 in my '35 and went with 7.50 tires, ( tallest that I could comfortably fit ) and that gave me a comfortable RPM at 60.
Looks like a great find, good luck and have fun.

I'm interested in your opinion here, could you please explain why you feel that frame and suspension modifications are needed to safely go over 55-60 mph? Stock parts in good condition that operate like they should and adjusted/aligned like they should, work perfectly well. The only unsafe above these speeds Ford V8's I've driven had something wrong. Fix that, and all's good.
Like to hear your opinion please.
Martin.
 
I just ditched my 4 speed non synchro for a heavy duty 3 speed. Driving is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better. I actually had a T-5 that I was going to put in, but I just didn't want to cut the cross member, so i sold it to a friend who is ditching his 3 on the tree.
 
If you want a fairly stock look. Maybe look at a torque tube overdrive setup. There are a few options. Mitchell is one. Being a truck you won't have to modify the floor to use it. And no frame cutting like a t5. Overdrive will let you cruise at low rpms at higher speeds. Better for the engine.

If you can find a 3sp it wouldn't be a bad conversion as far as drivability. Being you have a willys, you have that grunt force feel. A little smoother shift and drive might be nice for your 39.
 
:)Scooder, while I love the old fords ( and other great old vehicles ) and agree the early ford V8's were an amazing piece of technology for their time they were not designed for the speed and handling characteristics required to react mechanically in a bad situation at 70 or 80. Just like we use scientific calculators and I-pads instead of abacus and slide-rules, our vehicle designs have evolved as well. I know in a stressed situation at 70 or 80 don't want to be in a stock anything pre 1960. Ad the right performance mods and I'm there. Hope we're not stealing this thread. I don't mind further discussion but send a message.
 
The F150 3-speed with OD (making it a 4-speed sort of) has also been adapted for torque tube drive and it's a fairly normal type top shifter. The other option is a 3.54:1 or 3.78:1 rear axle ratio with a light duty 39 to 51 3-speed set up for torque tube drive. This would be original type, bolt right in, and still give good highway speeds. It would reduce the load capablity of the pickup but most folks don't haul much with their flivers anyway.
 
I have a 3/4 ton stake bed truck, run a 3spd car trans (28 tooth cluster) a 9" rear axle with 3:25 gear set and 60 hp speedometer-I can outrun the speedo, great cruiser but a little hard to drive around town, stopping on a hill and starting off is a little rough, I am thinking of going to a 3:54 to make it even better--I do have an open drive line and 122" frame
 
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Keep min mind that most, if not all, four speed truck transmissions are straight through in high gear, The first gear is a "granny" gear unless the transmission is a rare 4th OD type. Thus, the main effect of gearing hinges on the rear end ratio.
 
The Mitchell looks intriguing but it's spendy! Dang! I would need to buy both a 3-speed trans and the overdrive - maybe $3500?

I'm now thinking that keeping the torque tube with a 4x4 T-5 will require some frame cuts and I don't want to do that. I would be ok with removing the frame center section and replacing it with a Speedway-type mount and open drive / T-5 -- that would be a reversible mod and a wag for that is about $2000.

Appreciate all the inputs! Thanks.
 
Ya it ain't cheap being a car guy. Depends on your ability and time you want to drive it.

Need it now, want it cheap, need it reliable. Pick two and hope.

Don't need a 3sp for the Torque tube overdrive. But would help over all if you want modern driving. There are other options as well. Some require more time and more money unless ya have a machine shop at hand.

Look forward to your updates, and if I can help I will certainly.




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You also have to consider that you are converting to an open drive setup with the t5 setup... So either changing the rear end or adding an open drive pinion to your banjo. Then you will need to change the rear suspension. Either parallel spring setup or 4 bar. Starting to add up doest it.
 
Yes, I am thinking about the rear suspension too. Drake recommends adding a torque arm to replace the torque tube. I would like to keep the transverse spring. My estimate includes the open drive pinion but not Drake's torque arm kit but I think I could build his kit myself.

The Mitchell route sure seems a lot easier!

This is the 4th vehicle for me. Two others were all stock (the '43 Willys and a '65 Vette) and one modified (a '56 210 2-door). I can do most work myself except machining.
 
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volvo od can be made to work real well 60s units in the torque tube. no handle to screw with electric. you can pick one up at swap meets or ebay sometimes for 150 to 300 bucks with machine work at reasonABLE PRICE CAN BE DONE FOR AROUND A GRAND TOTAL.
 
There is also a Jeep 5-speed conversion that fits in with your torque tube, no frame mods as I understand it, the shifter (I think) comes out in the stock location, and everything else remains the same. Do a google search on this conversion but I do believe there was an in depth build on this over on the HAMB.
 
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