Transmission Adjustment

Robi321

Robi321

Junior Member
I know there are several posts on band adjustments, but I haven't see anything on my particular problem.
When I first start, or try to start the car, it wants to lurch forward and drive like its in gear. After it runs for a few seconds that stops and I can then restart without issue until it sits and gets cold. I checked the low gear band adjustment and it doesn't seem like it is too tight. Is there anyplace else I should be looking?
 
Sounds like the clutch fingers need adjusting or when you pull the hand brake handle back it is not completely disengaging the clutch fingers. Take the inspection cover off and check that the fingers are loose when the hand brake handle is pulled back.
 
The clutch plates are bathed in oil. If the oil is cold, it will be thicker and cause the clutch plates to act as if they are 'stuck' together. After the oil warms up the plates spin free of each other. Many people jack up one of the rear wheels when the engine is cold so the car doesn't lurch forward. When the oil is warm, step on the break pedal and the wheel will stop. Then you can take the car off the jack and drive away.
 
What weight oil is in it? Some release the hand lever and it keeps the oil squeezed out between the clutch disk.
 
I am running 10-w30 in there right now, I will check the clutch adjustment. Is there a better weight oil to use?
 
Due to the .002 clearances for mains and rods, I would use 30 weight. But others may use 10W-30. I think 10W-30 is too thin when cold. The straight 30 weight may make the clutch plates stick more when cold but I think may lubricate better.
 
How's the weather in New Jersey? If it's cold, I suspect the oil theory is most likely. If that's it, the one-rear-wheel-off-the-ground suggestion is a popular remedy.
 
You need to run something like 5W-30 or 0W-20 in the winter in New Jersey. 10W-30 ought to be fine in the summer time.

The link from the low pedal to the clutch arm may need to be adjusted longer to give more disengagement travel on the clutch.
 
I would stick to 10-30 oil. It is a good all season oil. The oil grades suggested by Royce are made for modern engines with much closer tolerances and finer machining work.
 
Ford originally sent every Model T out of the factory with "Light" grade motor oil.
dykes-oil1.jpg

Before the SAE came along motor oils were graded in terms from Light to Heavy. Here's a chart from the side of a Mobil Oil can of about 1930 vintage:
mobil-chart-blow-up.jpg


During this period of time the industry was making the switch to SAE oil designations. Mobil Oil "A" is SAE 30, previously designated "Heavy Medium"which is two grades too thick for a Model T.

This is a can of Sinclair SAE 30 from about the same period of time:
sinclair-m.jpg

Here's the top of the same can of oil:
sinclair-medium-heavy.jpg


So actually, SAE 10W-30 is thicker when hot than the oil Ford recommended for the Model T. Now you know the real story.


J Franklin said:
I would stick to 10-30 oil. It is a good all season oil. The oil grades suggested by Royce are made for modern engines with much closer tolerances and finer machining work.
Click to expand...
 
Accidentally hit enter. Here's the last sentence:

The "Light" grade of motor oil that Ford recommended for every Model T is equivalent to SAE 20 of today.
 
Thanks again guys, being a person that is relatively new to Model t's this group and its members is a wealth of information!
 
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