Trans removal jack stands

Did anyone mention removing the brake crosshaft for clearance on the rear of the ******? You might sneak it past, but it's so much easier with it out of the way.
 
1crosscut said:
Here is what I do for adding height to jack stands when needed.

Cut a 2"x10" and a 2"x4" 12 3/4"s long.
Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood 12 3/4" square.
Using 2 1/2"" screws attach the 2"x4" and 2"x10" to the plywood.
Put another matching piece of 3/4" plywood over the 2"x4" and 2"x10" making a "sandwich".
Add another set of 2x's (off set from the first two so the joints don't line up) and one more sheet of plywood. Make sure that you have a plywood "cap" on the top and bottom of the stack!
This way you end up with plywood on the bottom, 2x's, plywood, 2x's and plywood on the top.
You will need to nip off a bit of the screw tips that will extend out of the 2x's on the first layer. After that the length of the screws will not be a problem.
Set your jack stand on this. Very stable and will not split like logs, rail road ties etc...
You can make several sets and stack two or even three stacks together for added height.
Click to expand...

yes we have done something similar on occasion. On modern vehicles i use 4x4 blocks stacked like jenga pieces under the frame/axle as the main jackstands and put commercial made steel ones as close as i can under whatever it is as backup or leave the jack (with pressure relieved) just barely touching it as a backup.

I try to not get under/use jackstands period if i can help it. QUALITY drive on ramps are a bit more sturdy - not those crappy plastic ones or the single stamped/bent ones with no cross bracing.
 
Years ago I took two rusty, unusable rear axle housings and cut off the ends about two or three inches down. At that distance, the removable tops of cheap jack stands with round shanks can be dropped down inside. They make great frame stands for doing front and rear and removal because of their height. The frame rests securely on them and will remain there because of the flaired ends on the removable jack stand tops. Be sure to remove the rear wheels when lowering the rear end with spring still attached (a subject of controversy better left to another thread) because the stands won't be quite tall enough for the wheels to roll out from beneath the fenders. You could put the axle stands on big wooden lengths, but the rear wheels usually have to come off anyway for rear end attention. Just use a floor jack beneath the differential housing and lower the rear end slowly.
I also notched the top ends of the housings so that the rear bumper braces can drop down into the cuts. This gives added height to the chassis if needed. Just be sure to place the axle housing stands directly beneath the vertical bumper brace stands that bolt to the rear lower cross member. It's strongest there.
I have used these modified axle housings as described for 40 years and never encountered a problem or safety issue. The wide bases keep the chassis from tipping or leaning and are much safer than stacking traditional jack stands on blocks of wood or construction block. Axle housings can be found cheaply at swap meets or in guys' junk piles.
Marshall
 
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