Trailer

15' sounds too short but maybe not, measure your PU front to back and remember you want to balance it on the trailer with some tongue weight. I assume the trailer is dual rear wheels. I have three I tow with, a 18' open tow behind, a 20' enclosed tow behind and a 22' goose neck. My '29 CCPU fits the 18' well as well as the others, I use the enclosed if traveling more than a short distance or at more than 50 MPH or if there is any chance for bad weather. Good luck with your purchase.



BTW here is how I position my vehicles on a trailer, with the trailer hooked up to the tow vehicle on level ground, I like pavement or cement, I place a scale under the front screw lift and adjust it down on a scale until it starts to register weight, then I drive my vehicle on the trailer moving forward till It registers about 250-300 lbs of weight. We tow with F250s and F350s. When I am in the right spot I mark the trailer with a line at the forward edge of the front wheel for that vehicle. In buying a trailer keep in mind you might want to haul something larger in the future. Hope this helps.
 
I just sold my 14’ trailer that I’ve had for over 30 years. It worked fine for Model A’s and it also hauled a lot of other (longer) cars too.
 
While the length should be sufficient to fit the car completely on the trailer, you should check the weight capacity of the trailer especially the axle and tires. Also I would recommend that the trailer be equipped with brakes.
 
I use an 18' equipment trailer and there is at least 3 feet on either end of it when my A is on it. 15' should work OK, just check weight rating.
 
15 foot is fine. make sure its a double axle. plenty of room and if getting a good deal, buy it.


Ive towed with a 16 for many years, no brakes and it was just fine. the A is no more then 2200 ibs.
 
14 will work. Mine is a 16 Texas Bragg dovetail with a strong wire mesh tailgate that swings down. No ramps to mess with, no steep angles...makes life much much easier.
 
The only concern withh a 14-16 ft trailer is the strap angles are very steep. It pulls down on with more force but less fore and aft pull. You also want 10 percent of the GVWR on the tongue. Example 1800 lbs trailer + 2000 lbs car= 380 lbs tongue weight for proper handling. If trailer is too short then you can easily exceed. Also no room for winch, tool box etc. I have a 19 ft and it is perfect. It is aluminum with ramps. I would have prefered a tilt bed but the ramps are very light and easy to deploy. Most states require brakes 3000# GVW+ lbs
 
16’ aluminum trailer. Tie down rings on the front and back with low angle to the floor. I have a tool box in front of the bumper between the tie down rings. Trailer plus Model A = 3200#. As it sits there is 380# on the tongue. Pulls great, no sway, no bouncing up and down on the tongue.
 

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barkleydave said:
The only concern withh a 14-16 ft trailer is the strap angles are very steep. It pulls down on with more force but less fore and aft pull. You also want 10 percent of the GVWR on the tongue. Example 1800 lbs trailer + 2000 lbs car= 380 lbs tongue weight for proper handling. If trailer is too short then you can easily exceed. Also no room for winch, tool box etc. I have a 19 ft and it is perfect. It is aluminum with ramps. I would have prefered a tilt bed but the ramps are very light and easy to deploy. Most states require brakes 3000# GVW+ lbs
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Do your pulls towards the middle of the trailer, not the end. Or tie down from the middle out instead of the axles.
 
The 15x8 should be fine. Most Model A's are about 14' long. The biggest problem I have had with car trailers is with the ramps and the angle they take down from the back of the trailer. Some of the lower cars will bottom out coming off the trailer. Even a 2' dovetail with a 4" drop will give the ramp angle a much more gentle slope. With a 15' trailer you have room to put a dovetail on. Another alternative is a modified ramp shaped like a dovetail but either way you can cut the angle coming off the trailer in half.
 
This is the way I tie down, with crossed straps. It secures the load side to side and front/back. It isn't going anywhere. Straight straps parallel with the trailer sides will let a bouncing car creep sideways.
 

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28’ enclosed trailer + 3’ v-nose. I haul a 28 CCPU and a 29 Business Coupe, together. I also have a 20’ aluminum open trailer, which gives plenty of extra space for a single car.
 
"You also want 10 percent of the GVWR on the tongue. Example 1800 lbs trailer + 2000 lbs car= 380 lbs tongue weight" I believe it is suppose to be 10-15% of gross trailer weight GTW.
 
I have a 20’ aluminum tilt trailer with a tool box and a winch. I use a ShurLine tongue weight scale and have movable wheel stops to make sure each car is properly balanced as to tongue weight. Brakes on both axles with a good controller is a must. This is my third trailer and knowing what I know now, it would have been my first purchase.
 

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denis4x4 said:
I have a 20’ aluminum tilt trailer with a tool box and a winch. I use a ShurLine tongue weight scale and have movable wheel stops to make sure each car is properly balanced as to tongue weight. Brakes on both axles with a good controller is a must. This is my third trailer and knowing what I know now, it would have been my first purchase.
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Nice looking rig.
 
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