Towing a Model A with tow bar - consider this method?

Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

Neil Mylar LakewoodCA

Well-known member
I had to tow a Model A chassis a short distance, a couple of months ago. The rear end was frozen and the rear drums were missing.

I brought some freshly packed rear drums from home and installed them without the rear end to hub keyways. The drums turned freely, independent of the rear end. I towed it home with no problems.

I got to thinking that this could be a good method of towing a Model A, long distances on all 4's and not having to worry about hurting the transmission (because it and the rear end would not be turning). Just remove the rear axle keyways.

Am I missing anything?
 
If I'm understanding this correctly I think it would wear the taper on the axles or the tapered hole in the drum for long distances because the drum is turning on the stationary axle. JMHO Dale.
 
i'd only do that if it were registered and insured.
good suggestion though, thanks for sharing.
being frozen, that's about all you could do, keeping it simple.
short distance, through your neighborhoods and urban sprawl, avoiding surface streets and highways.
that fine would surpass a trailer rental fee.
 
Ummm, I'm just curious what held the hubs on? If the hub was turning yet the axle was not, that sure seems like a receipe for disaster. That tapered area of the hub was spinning on the non-lubricated, non-turning axle shaft and somethings gotta give. Either the hub is now worn or the axle shaft is scored possible creating stress risers. What if one of those items (either the hub or the axle) got red hot from that friction? It would not be a great day if that axle ever decided to break off would it?

I guess if the hub has now worn excessively, maybe a few axle shims will take up the "slop" but again, you are hoping the hub wore uniformly and concentrically. Imagine someone buying that hub at a later date unknowingly to use on their car? I see way more liability issues than to recommend this method but to each his own I suppose.
 
I'm not recommending this method. I just brought it up for discussion. It worked for me for 1.5 miles on local surface streets.

I am not an expert on rear ends, but wouldn't most of the weight have been on the brake drum bearings and the axle housing surface? I agree, the axle shafts were turning, but wouldn't there have been minimum weight on that surface?

Looking for an education, Neil
 
Neil Mylar LakewoodCA said:
I'm not recommending this method. I just brought it up for discussion. It worked for me for 1.5 miles on local surface streets.

I am not an expert on rear ends, but wouldn't most of the weight have been on the brake drum bearings and the axle housing surface? I agree, the axle shafts were turning, but wouldn't there have been minimum weight on that surface?

Looking for an education, Neil
Click to expand...

Well, I see your point, and to me 1½ mile to the house is much different than "long distance". I agree that the weight would have been on the axle housing races but let me see if I can make this make sense. If you had not installed the axle shaft nuts, what would have likely happened during that 1½ mile drive? Mot would agree that the hub/drum/wheel wouldhave fallen off. Therefore it had to be applying some force to keep it (the drum/hub/wheel) remaining on the housing as it was being towed down the road. Therefore the stationary axle nut is rubbing against the moving drum creating heat from that friction. Now when the force is placed in the opposite direction, the hub is forced inward where it will be spinning on the tapered section of the axle ...all the while the opposite side of the vehicle has the axle nut rubbing against the drum. This force will be transfered in any motion such as a direction turn, or even just slight steering wheel correction as it is being towed down the road. Since all of this is happening away from eyesight, when failure does happen (--and I think it will) then the hub/drum/wheel will exit the rear end housing at whatever speed you were traveling. IMO, it could take a legion of guardian angels to protect what potentially could go wrong in this scenario. Maybe others see it differently?? :confused:
 
Neil Mylar LakewoodCA said:
I'm not recommending this method. I just brought it up for discussion. It worked for me for 1.5 miles on local surface streets.

I am not an expert on rear ends, but wouldn't most of the weight have been on the brake drum bearings and the axle housing surface? I agree, the axle shafts were turning, but wouldn't there have been minimum weight on that surface?

Looking for an education, Neil
Click to expand...

That is how you friction weld. Not a good idea. It might work for a couple of miles at a real slow speed. I would not try this at home. Sorry just the way I feel.
 
If you greased the axle and nut good, traveled at slow speeds a short distance it should be fine. As you turn corners pressure will be applied alternately to the nut and then the taper. It will quickly clean the grease off the taper and then score the surfaces. I'd say long distance, no way.
 
Brent, Thanks for your explanation. It makes sense.

My top speed was 25-30 MPH, so hopefully I didn't cause any major damage.

I agree with the consenses, that it's not smart for high speeds or long distances.
 
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