Torqueflite 904 kit to Model A engine fitment?

R

Richie R

Member
Hello all
I'm will be fitting a Model A engine to auto kit in the next few weeks.
Has anyone here used one of these kits?

If so do you use the steel plate on the crankshaft that's used when bolting in a flywheel?

Did not get any instructions with this kit.

Also will need to find a crankshaft reduction bush and worried about crank to converter fitment. (I have a 1966 Slant 6 small spigot converter)
It's a newly rebuilt engine, a auto in unknown condition and trying to cross off as many other things as possible before trying to start it.
 
Wait a minute, was there not enough information for you in December that included a phone number of someone that had it in two of their cars?
 
Richie -

I hope you can share some pictures on this set up when you start putting in together. MOPAR and Ford combo. Sounds interesting.

You could not kill the old slant six, even with the #4 rod hanging out of the pan.................! I saw that myself back in 1969.

Good luck -

SHEC :cool:
 
Richie,

There is something that you may find useful. When you have asked the question before you can find the post by going clicking on your name to bring up a menu and then you can click on "Find more posts..." to get a listing of all of your old posts.

Charlie Stephens
 
As old age keeps settling in, I may be up to an automatic one of these days. However I would surely wish someone would make a kit using a C4 or other Ford ******.
 
CarlG said:
As old age keeps settling in, I may be up to an automatic one of these days. However I would surely wish someone would make a kit using a C4 or other Ford ******.
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My choice to would be a C4 especially since I have a reco one siting in my shed.
Only commercially available kits,

1/ the slant 6 Torqueflite 904 kit that does away with the Ford A bellhousing (and its rear engine mount)
2/ the Chev kit that can use any Chevy auto, Powerglide T200/350/400/700.

I went with the 904 kit as it's cheaper, makes a shorter engine/gearbox assy and hopefully can fit it without cutting the centre chassis crossmember.
 
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What do these automatic conversions use for a torque converter? I would think a lower than stock stall speed would be required to match the low RPM range of a Model A engine. These trannies were originally behind engines that make their torque peak (an engine's most efficient RPM) above 2500 RPM and converter stall speed is around 1800 or so. Model A torque peak is around 1,000 RPM and max RPM around what, 2200-2400? So a torque converter behind an A engine will never (or seldom) reach it's efficient RPM range unless it's a new style lock-up type.
 
40 Deluxe said:
What do these automatic conversions use for a torque converter? I would think a lower than stock stall speed would be required to match the low RPM range of a Model A engine. These trannies were originally behind engines that make their torque peak (an engine's most efficient RPM) above 2500 RPM and converter stall speed is around 1800 or so. Model A torque peak is around 1,000 RPM and max RPM around what, 2200-2400? So a torque converter behind an A engine will never (or seldom) reach it's efficient RPM range unless it's a new style lock-up type.
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It uses the slant 6 auto converter, I think it will work very well in a fenderless lightweight model a roadster pickup.
Any hydraulic controlled auto will still move off with only 600 to 800 rpm, stall for most 60s/70s 3 speed automatics is set at 1700/1900 rpm.
Stall is measured by applying full brake and full throttle at the same time. Whatever rpm the engine gets to is the "stall speed"
Any automatic with a stall speed over 2000rpm is generally a performance converter.
I've driven a drag race style T350 auto behind a 383 Chev with a 3500 stall and it would still drive off ok with a bit over 1000rpm.
There is some way to calculate it all, torque/power/weight to get the stall speed but in real world driving its irreveliant.
I plan to eventually put a few clips on YouTube of my combination running and a drive around the block for all to see.
I love the older automatics, my view from the late 80s when I started playing around with them is they are more forgiving on engine and final driveline, they take a lot of the impact shock out of the power from engine to the road.
 
Richie R said:
It uses the slant 6 auto converter, I think it will work very well in a fenderless lightweight model a roadster pickup.
Any hydraulic controlled auto will still move off with only 600 to 800 rpm, stall for most 60s/70s 3 speed automatics is set at 1700/1900 rpm.
Stall is measured by applying full brake and full throttle at the same time. Whatever rpm the engine gets to is the "stall speed"
Any automatic with a stall speed over 2000rpm is generally a performance converter.
I've driven a drag race style T350 auto behind a 383 Chev with a 3500 stall and it would still drive off ok with a bit over 1000rpm.
There is some way to calculate it all, torque/power/weight to get the stall speed but in real world driving its irreveliant.
I plan to eventually put a few clips on YouTube of my combination running and a drive around the block for all to see.
I love the older automatics, my view from the late 80s when I started playing around with them is they are more forgiving on engine and final driveline, they take a lot of the impact shock out of the power from engine to the road.
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richie how does the TV (throttle valve) get hooked up?
 
Mitch//pa said:
richie how does the TV (throttle valve) get hooked up?
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Using a original slant 6 kick down rod or if I have no luck with fitting this will be using a aftermarket cable kit I can get for $135.
The carb will be a Holley 94 or my Stromberg 97 so should be easy to adapt.
 
FYI
it's more than just a kick down as it controls the upshifts by regulating the TV pressure. it needs to have full travel and not just at WOT like a vacuum modulated controlled trans which is essentially a kick down...
you may know all this already..
 
Lokar makes kickdown cables for most automajics to replace the rod. I'm using one on my C-4 behind my 318" Y-Block.

Kickdown is lower cable;
18534946225_1b7cb34a5c_z.jpg
 
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I installed one of these about 20 years ago, and I do not remember all the details of the installation, but for those of you who say it will not work, you are incorrect. When I got this job to do, I wondered the same thing, due to engine size , RPMs, etc. However, boy was I surprized. Once we got everything adjusted, this trans works with this engine like it was made for it. We used it with 3.54 gears and a 5.5 to one head, and you would have thought it was the OEM transmission. If you want to pass someone, you just put your foot down, and it shifts down perfectly, and because you can adjust the shifting, you can make it gear back up at any RPM. Just wanted to quash the naysayers.
 
SteveB31 said:
I installed one of these about 20 years ago, and I do not remember all the details of the installation, but for those of you who say it will not work, you are incorrect. When I got this job to do, I wondered the same thing, due to engine size , RPMs, etc. However, boy was I surprized. Once we got everything adjusted, this trans works with this engine like it was made for it. We used it with 3.54 gears and a 5.5 to one head, and you would have thought it was the OEM transmission. If you want to pass someone, you just put your foot down, and it shifts down perfectly, and because you can adjust the shifting, you can make it gear back up at any RPM. Just wanted to quash the naysayers.
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i dont recall any naysayers
 
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You may have already seen the article posted in Secrets of Speed Mag
V-21.1 where Al Pokrywka installed a C4 in his A after losing his right leg.
Worth a look if you can locate a copy.
Ahooga, Rosco
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Lokar makes kickdown cables for most automajics to replace the rod. I'm using one on my C-4 behind my 318" Y-Block.

Kickdown is lower cable;
18534946225_1b7cb34a5c_z.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice try carb setup Y Blockhead, might be running a Y block yet on next build for a 30 coupe on 32 rails.

The Lokar kit is over $200 + postage and Aussie dollar conversion rate. Would like to use their products as they are well known to work straight out of the box.
The $135 cable kit is from a Australian Mopar supplier and looks very similar to the Lokar.
Thanks for all the feedback.
PS (not related to auto)
I've always been anti Mopar especially as they are a very small part of our market and actually completely pulled out of our market in 1981 or so.
Mopar came back with Jeeps in the early 90s.
But do have a liking now for their autos.
 
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