Torque wrench

OLD AS I

OLD AS I

Senior Member
Have to replace my torque wrench, any comments on what make, sweep needle dial gauge or clicker type, just for use on V8 flat heads so perhaps a range of 40-80 ft lbs, thanks for input, .......... cheers
 
I have both a dial gauge and clicker type. If you get the clicker type be sure to back off the torque setting after each use or it will be out of calibration after a while. I like the clicker for ease of use and initial torque. The dial suits me better for lower torque values. If I only had one it would be the dial type just because I trust it.
 
Your arm may get shaky after about the 37th head bolt so it may be hard to read the dial type! I've had good results with the $12-14 Harbor Freight clickers. I have an electronic torque wrench tester and the HF ones are within a pound or two. One of the car magazines did a test a few years ago and found the HF ones to be accurate also. It takes a little squinting, bright light or magnifying glass for me to read the scale, though.
 
Harbor Freight also sells a torque wrench calibration unit for $29.00

I just bought one but have not tested it.

Lots of you tube videos about how accurate it is.
 
just a few weeks back i was putting heads on a v8 using an old snap on torque wrench i had just bought at a swap meet last summer. i had a nice snap on bought new in the 70's that burned in a fire, dial type, i liked it and bought this other one. so putting on heads, i only got to 40lbs and it seemed to me to be harder than it should, so i stopped to check my wrench against another. sure enough it was reading 12lbs lighter than the neighbors. good thing i stopped. so thinking it was a high quality thing i looked into having it rebuilt. reading posts on the garage forum i came across the post from a man that works at a place that rebuilds them. take it how you wish, but he said, the dial type are most accurate, and most sensitive to being banged around. the click type can be good if you always back off the spring, and you get the most bang for your buck with the plain ol cheap beam type. they may be off a pound or so when new but will most likely stay that way your whole life. so if you like to just throw it in the drawer, and not treat it like an egg, your better off with the cheap beam. me, i bought a used beam off the neighbor for ten bucks instead of sending the snap on out for a 100+ rebuild
 
oldasi,

As a former Snap-On Dealer in the USA I took my customers torque wrenches to the local Snap-on repair center had had them calibrated. Most of them did not need to be overhauled.

You may want to check your local phone book for a Snap-On dealer in your area.

Mark
 
I have a beam type that I bought in 1974 and it's still accurate. I also have 3 of the Harbor Freight ones and they are also accurate against a professional Snap On. I use the HF ones in my lawn mower repairs that I do, and are fine.
 
Mine from snap on is brand new digital. It vibrates, and beeps loud at correct torque. It also does angles and a lot more than I will ever need. I plan on building a lot of projects that need good torque values so I stepped up and bought one. It was around 500.00$. I just can't buy cheap junk tools so I stay as far from hf as possible. I would say just buy a craftsmen if you don't want to spend a lot of money.
 
Lowe's and Home Depot sell a good "clicker" type wrench.
Don't waste your money on a Harbor Freight torque wrench.
The quality is poor.
 
I have a older Snap-on "clicker" style torque wrench. Shortly after paying to have it calibrated, the ratchet head has went bad (stripped out inside the head)after getting pissed at my local Snap-on man I have checked with 3 other salesmen and the head is discontinued so I am told I am out of luck. The only thing they can offer is sell me a new one. No way! I'll buy the craftsman for less than half.
 
I have a Precision Instruments bar type torque wrench. It's a 1/2" version, made in the USA and was under $150. I'm assuming a 3/8" would be cheaper.
 
Remember you need to torque the rear axle nut. A couple of hundred pounds (depending on where you are reading). Maybe you need 2 different wrenches.

Charlie Stephens
 
I read an interesting torque wrench article by a NASCAR team chief, who was of course VERY picky about every detail.
He said to use the clickers for all the heavy iron work, with frequent calibrations just for insurance.
For connecting rods only, he used the old fashioned beam and pointer in a range close to the torque needs of his rods. Nothing to get out of order and all the accuracy that one would need for fasteners that are rather low torque AND absolutely critical.
 
Well, bite the bullet and bought a Snap-on, see its made in USA, 3/8" drive, 50 ft-lb, not cheap, $349.80 shipped to Canada, has to come from Crystal Lake ILL direct from Snap-on, dial needell gauge.
 
I have a Gray Canada 3/8 clicker for 35 years and I always wind off the tension after use. I check it with a newer one once in while by setting them at the same setting and joining them together with what ever sockets works and see if they click at the same time.
 
today i saw a friends snap on, dial type with a light that goes on when your goal is met ! way cool, but how much??
 
I replaced a beam with a Proto clicker, middle 70s, and bought Snap on 1/4" and 3/8".
I trust the old Proto. Used it with torque multipliers on a lot of stuff.
Bruce
 
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