Torque Value for rear wheel axle nut?

B

BL in NH

Member
Is there a value for this nut or is it just a firm tighten til it "feels"right? Can't seem to find anything in my manuals on this. Thanks
 
205 ft. lbs., and continue-on until the holes lineup for the cotter.....but NOT TO EXCEED 275 ft. lbs. in doing so. Sounds scary, huh? DD
 
And be sure the nut used is the correct one for the torque values. Some of the rep nuts are not. NOS or used might be the best.
 
Where are you guys coming up with 200-275fp for the axle nuts? I would not think it would be any more then 100-120Fp like Model A which use the same thread and nut.
 
every car i have ever owned that had tapered axles, the hubs were loose when i bought it. thats fords, packards, vw's, dodges, etc. so get em tight, and check it again after a few hundred miles
 
RedmodelT, look up the Ford Service Letter specifications which state: "tighten axle nut 356074-S to 200 -220 foot pounds of torque, then continue tightening to next castellation providing final resultant does not exceed 275 foot pounds of torque". V8COOPMAN was right on the money! LOUB.
 
Thank you. While I mostly work on Model A's I do on occasion get the pleasure of having some of the V8 in the shop. :)
As a side note; I looked at my torque wench, it only goes to 150. It is the type that most home mechanics might have in their tool kit. To reach the 200+ you would need to step up to the next one that still only goes to about 250.
Suggestion if it is 100 or 200+, if the slot is too far off the hole, remove the nut and try a different one or remove a little material from the nut.
 
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redmodelt said:
Suggestion if it is 100 or 200+, if the slot is too far off the hole, remove the nut and try a different one or remove a little material from the nut.
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While that will work too, Peelable shims (thin washers) are indicated for this situation.
 
When this question comes up, and does a lot, the experts always chime in with 200-250 lbs on the Ford axle nut.

How many have actually torqued the axle nut to those values ?
How many have stripped the threads ?

I'll bet the local Ford garage back in the day never had a 250 lb torque wrench.
 
Yes stripped the threads maybe!!
With the wheel removed and drum fitted and then to torque up to 200 ft lbs how to hold against the torque wrench whilst tightening up.
I just use a bar between wheel studs and anchored to the ground.
Is there a correct method for this.
As to tighten with wheel fitted and weight of car on ground does not really work?
Interested in opinions.
Phil NZ
 
Use a torque multiplier. 1/2" drive avail at amazon for $42.95 free shipping.
They come in different sizes and styles.
Bruce
 
This is the specification I always post when this question comes up 3 or 4 times a year on this forum, and yes, I torque the rear axle nuts on my cars to this spec, and no, I have not stripped threads. I do make sure the threads on the axles are in good condition, and I make sure the nuts are original Ford parts, made to Ford specifications.

The 'V8 Times', Sept/Oct 98 Issue, pages 46 and 48, quotes several Ford Service Letters and later corrections. The final direction on tightening axle nuts reads: "tighten nut 356074-S to 200 to 220 foot pounds; then continue tightening to the next castellation providing final resultant torque does not exceed 275 foot pounds."
 
Standard torque values for a Grade 8 5/8-18 is 230 ft-lbs. So why all the questioning about the posted 200 to 220 values? No idea what the grade of original Ford axles and nuts were, but sure they were at least superior to a Grade 8 bolt.
 
cas3 said:
agreed, and then drive a few hundred miles and do it again, see post #6 !
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If correctly installed, it will remain tight till you loosen it yourself. My "torque wrench" consists of a box wrench and a cheater bar. My foot on the cheater bar is very sensitive to the correct torque value.

Seriously, if the nut loosens on its own, the taper is either dirty/oily, hasn't been checked for burrs, or has been badly galled by a previous loose nut.
 
What ford38 is refering to is something physically keeping the tapper from fully seating when first installed. Then over time it allows the hub to move enough to decrease the force of the nut. The pinned nut doesn"t move, the hub does.
 
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