woodypecker
Senior Member
I did not take out the center bearing when I shortened the torque tube and always thought I made a mistake until now. My lazy mistake may be my oil flow dam.
Torque tube seal-need a quick fix
- Thread starter RalphM
- Start date
RalphM
Well-known member
Update, so I installed one of Vern Tardels dams, and it still putting about 2 cups of oil from the rear differential into the transmission about every 40 miles. So I'm wondering if I should put an oil slinger in there to prevent it oil from going along the inner driveshaft?
For now every time I get home I drain the transmission and add oil to the rear diff. But it's getting expensive. And I'm more worried about taking a trip and burning up the rear diff her lack of oil.
The drawback now with the Vern Tardel baffle is even if I park on a hill it will not drain back into the rear diff because the baffle stops it.
For now every time I get home I drain the transmission and add oil to the rear diff. But it's getting expensive. And I'm more worried about taking a trip and burning up the rear diff her lack of oil.
The drawback now with the Vern Tardel baffle is even if I park on a hill it will not drain back into the rear diff because the baffle stops it.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The baffle just keeps the oil from going forward unless the car is not driven uphill or parked on an uphill slope. The oil has to drain back through the bearing so that's a slow process. The Bruce's Rod Shop or other seal arrangements will keep the oil back there but it can still seep from the torque tube flange if the joint is not well sealed. The banjo with a good bit of rake can also be overfilled with oil somewhat due to the higher position of the fill hole with extreme rakes.
A quick change rear is an expensive way to go but it does drop the tube down some.
A quick change rear is an expensive way to go but it does drop the tube down some.
RalphM
Well-known member
I have a solution, but I don't really want to go there. I have an open drive transmission, and have a friend with the open drive axle conversion, but this would mean redoing everything under the car. With a current 32 frame/ K member, I would have to cut it all out for the different rear mount, not to mention finding somewhere to attach the rear radius rods.
I am looking more towards some sort of oil slinger on the driveshaft, just wondering if anyone has tried this? I mean it works for crankshafts, right?
I am looking more towards some sort of oil slinger on the driveshaft, just wondering if anyone has tried this? I mean it works for crankshafts, right?
Angledrive
Senior Member
Ralph, I would steer clear of open drive for a lot of reasons. I would just order the seal from Bruce's and wait patiently doing what you can to transfer the oil back to the rear after a drive. I use Bruces' seal in my rear ends and they work great.
Phil Carracho
Junior Member
FYI the oil seal p/n is 473016
19Fordy
Well-known member
Ralph, if you have the patience and the skill you could actually fabricate a seal kit similar to Bruces's. Requires a flat piece of thin sheet steel, a short peace of tubing and a seal for the shaft. I bet you could do it.
Bruces is a one piece unit as it appears to be formed in a press. But, you could align and weld your pieces together as needed quite accurately after first tack welding pieces in position on the drive shaft. I cut out 2 gaskets from a manila folder and applied non hardening Permatex to all contact surfaces. Here's some helpful photos.
You do not have to remove the coupler pin, like I did as seal will slide over the coupler rivets if you sand them smooth and use a piece of Saran wrap with oil to slide the coupler on over the rivet heads. You might even to be able to find a standard size piece of tubing or exhaust pipe tubing that you could use. Give it a try. Take photos as you go and post them.
Here's the seal.
https://www.ebay.com/i/153942306443...pxxSQNy6s6BAtJ9n0pkR_qrYYgWCtpTIaAo_4EALw_wcB
Local parts stores would have it too.
Check out seal dimensions for your fabrication. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...a0/national-multi-purpose-seal/473016/2550236
Bruces is a one piece unit as it appears to be formed in a press. But, you could align and weld your pieces together as needed quite accurately after first tack welding pieces in position on the drive shaft. I cut out 2 gaskets from a manila folder and applied non hardening Permatex to all contact surfaces. Here's some helpful photos.
You do not have to remove the coupler pin, like I did as seal will slide over the coupler rivets if you sand them smooth and use a piece of Saran wrap with oil to slide the coupler on over the rivet heads. You might even to be able to find a standard size piece of tubing or exhaust pipe tubing that you could use. Give it a try. Take photos as you go and post them.
Here's the seal.
https://www.ebay.com/i/153942306443...pxxSQNy6s6BAtJ9n0pkR_qrYYgWCtpTIaAo_4EALw_wcB
Local parts stores would have it too.
Check out seal dimensions for your fabrication. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...a0/national-multi-purpose-seal/473016/2550236
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Unless I missed it, I haven't seen mention of the seal that Ford put at the top of the torque tube to prevent the lube from draining down the tube from the rear. In normal driving, a stock car had the tube tilted down towards the rear and the lube would stay in the rear. If you parked on a hill you could have some lube drain down towards the trans. Once you got back on level ground it would go back. The seal Ford put up front slowed things down and whatever made it thru lubed up the U joint nicely so no real harm done.
I have two 32 Ford hot rods with identical EV8 running gear. Both cars have dropped front axles, lowered springs and big and little tires. Both have identical rubber rakes causing the torque tube to pitch down towards the trans.
On my roadster I installed the factory seal in the torque tube and it does not drain into the trans. On my Tudor, I forgot the seal and put the rear in the car, it leaks into the trans like crazy. It literally will drain the rear dry. At some point I will remove the rear, rebuild it with 3:78's and make sure the seal is in place before it goes in the car.
The moral of this story ?........
Start by doing what the factory did.....
It might prevent a problem before you know you have one.
I have two 32 Ford hot rods with identical EV8 running gear. Both cars have dropped front axles, lowered springs and big and little tires. Both have identical rubber rakes causing the torque tube to pitch down towards the trans.
On my roadster I installed the factory seal in the torque tube and it does not drain into the trans. On my Tudor, I forgot the seal and put the rear in the car, it leaks into the trans like crazy. It literally will drain the rear dry. At some point I will remove the rear, rebuild it with 3:78's and make sure the seal is in place before it goes in the car.
The moral of this story ?........
Start by doing what the factory did.....
It might prevent a problem before you know you have one.
19Fordy
Well-known member
32phil: I guess I am confused. Please clarify this statement.
"Unless I missed it, I haven't seen mention of the seal that Ford put at the top of the torque tube to prevent the lube from draining down the tube from the rear. "
What happens on a "raked" car is that the banjo gear oil drains forward down the inside of the torque tube and then encounters the torque tube center bearing slowly dissolving the rubber it is encased in. Then the oil continues forward to the front of the drive shaft where there is a seal located.
Of coarse, as this happens lots of gear oil is eventually drained from the banjo due to the 'rake". When there is "no rake" the banjo gear oil can drain back into the differential case via the return hole "notched" into the lip of the torque tube rear flange.
"Unless I missed it, I haven't seen mention of the seal that Ford put at the top of the torque tube to prevent the lube from draining down the tube from the rear. "
What happens on a "raked" car is that the banjo gear oil drains forward down the inside of the torque tube and then encounters the torque tube center bearing slowly dissolving the rubber it is encased in. Then the oil continues forward to the front of the drive shaft where there is a seal located.
Of coarse, as this happens lots of gear oil is eventually drained from the banjo due to the 'rake". When there is "no rake" the banjo gear oil can drain back into the differential case via the return hole "notched" into the lip of the torque tube rear flange.
PeteVS
Well-known member
I didn't read ALL the posts but it seems that the issue is the inclination of the torque tube. If it's higher in the rear, some oil will drain forward. If it's higher in the front (as Henry designed it) the oil will flow to the rear. Just putting a level on the torque tube will show you how much of a problem you have. Reverse pitch on the torque tube is caused by 1) over size rear tires, 2) smaller front tires, 3) front suspension modifications including dropped axle and reversed spring eyes.
Will D
Well-known member
FYI this thread was last active in 2017...I would hope RalphM had it sorted by now.
Talkwrench
Well-known member
Its what I do, Ive never had an issue..