Torque tube leak

So it’s impossible to tell from the photos if the seal is installed or if installed, done properly. Since my clamshell is a one piece, I will need to disconnect the torque tube and rear axle in order to attempt a difficult seal installation.

Guys I’m afraid this is going to be classified as a “Big Job” and left for a professional with experience and a lift!

In the meantime, I’ll continue to fill it with grease.

Richard
 
it would be easier to deal with the leak rather than go thru all the trouble to fix it at this stage. put it on the list to correct next time ****** or rear need work.
 
Hi Richard,

I think you could get the split O-ring seal in by yourself without pulling the rear end back. Unbolt the clamshell, slide it back a little and then push to one side toward the torques tube, insert the seal and work your way around. I'd remove the turtle housing if that gave you more access.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/251255228584

"Ford 1932-48 U Joint stop leak kit. This seals similar to a O-ring, It squeezes in the groove where the cork usually goes. Since it stays soft and flexible, it creates a nice reusable seal around the ball of the torque tube and never wears out. The cork ones wear out quick and end up leaking. I have included instructions and both gaskets as well. This kit will fit on all diameter Ford U-Joint covers, they made a few different sizes."

Glenn

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My guess is that you have more than enough grease - and that is probably the majority of the issue (along with it not really being the right type). You could try some corn-head grease in it, though I would probably drive it for a bit and see how much more of the "grey slime" comes out of it. Replacing the seal is not that big of a job in that you don't have to pull the rear end - the collar slips backwards (once you remove the "turtle" drive). It is surely easier if you have a lift . . . as laying on your back doing it isn't much fun. Also, any shop (if they know what the seal is all about) can do it with just a couple hours (max) of labor.
 
Yea Marko, I agree with you. I think I’ll wait until I have to take it in to the repair shop for some other thing.

Glenn, thanks for the heads up. That looks like just what I need.

Richard
 
You paid to have the transmission replaced.The shop should have installed a seal. Take it back and have them do it right.
 
Felt seal was OEM but folks changed stuff over the years. It's really just a dust seal. I'd be wondering about the orientation of the ball cap that fits over the u-joint. If the grease hole in the cap is down the grease can come out by gravity plus centrifugal force.

Using John Deere corn header gearbox grease might help some too but it doesn't need to be packed full to get the job done. The grease usually goes into the ball cap & drive shaft instead of around the bell if the ports are closer to being lined up for grease service.
 
You could always add a grease fitting to the top of the clamshell. You also have to make a corresponding hole in the transmission cover for easy access and filling.
 

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doesn’t look like stock ford parts, the clamshell looks to be one piece, the hole in the floor with what looks like a shifter doesn’t look stock, what transmission is it?
 
19Fordy, Really? the grease fitting sticks up thru the floor mat? If you are that concerned about lubricating the universal joint I would use flex tubing and have the grease fitting mounted somewhere less conspicuous. Sticking up thru the mat???
 
Bored&stroked, can you access the collar easier with the transmission cover removed? I know some of the bolts may be easier to get from below, but any work done from above sounds a lot better to me. Maybe I can do this.
Solidaxle, I will NEVER take my car to that mechanic again. He damages more than he fixes. I need to find a good mechanic who knows flathead V8s in S Georgia, N Florida or S E Alabama . Hard to find.
19Fordy, now that’s the cat’s meow! I have a grease fitting but it’s only accessed from underneath.
Glenn, I went ahead and ordered the “stop leak kit”. When the right time comes, I’ll be ready!

Thanks again to all of you.
Richard

Rotor wrench, thanks for the heads up about the orientation of the ball cap. This low viscosity grease could easily slip through.
 
Thanks for the feedback on my #28 post. The nice thing is that the fitting extension can always be shortened and the "flex tube lube" idea installed.

Ricosan (Richard): I wonder if there are any Fordbarners in Jacksonville who could help you? It's 165 mi. ( 2 1/2 hrs.) from Tallahassee to Jacksonville.

Another thought: If you put your car on jackstands and remove the transmission cover
you will find it much easier to work on. Of course, you'll have to slide under your car to work on it from the underside and also grease the clamshell. If your garage has A/C the job would be more comfortable.

You don't want a situation where you're paying someone to learn about the repair when you could just as well be learning yourself. I know it's easy for me to say but, it would be neat if you could patiently work on it yourself and really see and solve the problem.
 
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For Kurt in NJ, the early clams, 32-34 were one piece units built on the tube when manufactured , not removable
 
Ricosan, your right as far as modern mechanics working on our cars. You would be better off finding a mechanic that is a member of the V-8 Club.
 
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